Splitters requiring the most cams of one size?

Let's say you're going to Indian Creek (or anywhere else for that matter) and you have a splitter requiring multiple cams of one size to protect. What are the maximum number of cams you'd need in a given size to protect(*) the route?

(*)Assuming a "generous" onsight (not bold or pared-down redpoint) rack.

This is what I came up with off the top of my head (in Camalot sizes):

0.3 - Christmas Tree (12-14?)
0.4 - Learning to Fly (7-8), Ruby's Cafe (7-8)
0.5 - Pink Flamingo (10)
0.75 - Twin Cam (12), Tricks (12?)
1 - Six Star Crack (7), Quarter of a Man (8-10)
2 - ?
3 - SC Memorial (8-10)
4 - Mondo (6-8), Wiggins I (6-8)
5, 6 - Big Baby comes to mind but are there many climbs where you can't conveniently walk a pair of large cams up the route to protect?

Can you think of other climbs requiring more? Can you think of climbs outside of the Creek/Moab area?

forgive my ignorance but do people really climb there with 8 or 10 cams of the same size?

if you have triples it seems like at any point you can walk a cam up and be backed up by 2

is there really a crack that will take 10 #1s but at no point in the climb you can slot in a 0.75 or a 2?

inquiring minds want to know! (i'm desperate to get out there...)

#2, maybe Bunny Slope?

Fun post, Josh
Steve there are even routes that ideally you would want only in-between sizes, for example like #2 Friend instead of big greens or tight reds. And regarding the number, you wont make up very many routes there with just triples...

Darren, the other day I realized that I'd amassed 9x #3 Camalots and in an attempt to justify keeping them all, I tried in vain to think of a climb that would take that many. I'm getting to the point where I can climb in Indian Creek without a bunch of friends! But before I start selling off my excess cams I just thought I'd better make sure.

SteveMarshall wrote:forgive my ignorance but do people really climb there with 8 or 10 cams of the same size? if you have triples it seems like at any point you can walk a cam up and be backed up by 2 is there really a crack that will take 10 #1s but at no point in the climb you can slot in a 0.75 or a 2? inquiring minds want to know! (i'm desperate to get out there...)

In order:
Yes. Pooling gear among multiple parties is pretty common.
Yes. Also, because of the softer nature of Wingate sandstone as compared to say granite, you want to protect more frequently and not walk cams, except for the wide. There are many routes that have tell-tale grooves from a cam being dragged out of a crack on a longer fall.

Here's a typical Creek rack. No, you wouldn't take all this on any one route, but this is a good assortment to bring to the Creek (although minimalist/inadequate if you're an off width fiend).

Photo: Jim Lawyer

The suggested free rack for my route Original Route in the San Rafael Swell called for 11 .5 and 10 .75 camalots. It is a very long sustained pitch at those sizes.

SteveMarshall wrote:forgive my ignorance but do people really climb there with 8 or 10 cams of the same size? if you have triples it seems like at any point you can walk a cam up and be backed up by 2 is there really a crack that will take 10 #1s but at no point in the climb you can slot in a 0.75 or a 2? inquiring minds want to know! (i'm desperate to get out there...)

walking up three .5 camalots for a hundred feet would be a weeee bit strenuous...

isn't quarter of a man mostly .75's?
holiday hit the nail on the head with meathooks. i think my wife used nine 3.5's.
french fried at reservoir wall can take a pile of 4's
a person at their grade could use 12-18 #2's on attitude adjustment
end of the line....

don't start selling your cams, you will just end up buying more... :)

ha-ha, okay. Learned something today. Still stoked to go out there, sad-happy that I still have excuses to keep buying cams

SteveMarshall wrote:forgive my ignorance but do people really climb there with 8 or 10 cams of the same size?

Yes. I've never had 10 of my own (but I had 10 of three people's cams). Typically I bring at least 6x in each size between my rack and my partner's. Walking the cams might sound fine and easy on paper, good luck doing it in the field. You're not going to be jumping cams all the way up Fingers in a Lightsocket, that's for sure. If you can, then you can probably also climb .13s in the Creek too.

SteveMarshall wrote:ha-ha, okay. Learned something today. Still stoked to go out there, sad-happy that I still have excuses to keep buying cams

Most serious desert types has 4-5 of any given size.
A good desert partner has another third of a rack that I don't, and between the two of us, certainly enough pals willing to loan us friends...
Accounting for enough to climb anything we'd like.

Yup, my standard creek rack is x5 of everything from fingers to cupped hands (.3 to 3 C4's) and x2 of the ow sizes... although I'm getting more psyched on ow, so more of those cams are in my future.... and I make sure that there are at least x4 of all of those aformentioned sizes among the rest of my party