Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Seventh Serpent
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 35
votes
Routes in Reptilian Wall
|
|
Anaconda T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
April O'neil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Cobra T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Don Iguana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
Gecko T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Half snake, half chicken T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
No More Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Seventh Serpent T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Shed Your Skin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Splinter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Stealth Belly T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Triceratops Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Vertical flu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Wiggle 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,645 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Nov 29, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
There may not be a lot of routes nearby but the Seventh Serpent is one of the classics of Long Canyon and worth the hike for one pitch. The route starts in a right facing corner with a short section of offwidth followed by hands and thin hands. About 25' up the corner ends and the crack wanders up the wall trending left through a few large pods. The climbing is varied with numerous rests, face holds and some short sections of splitter crack. Be cautious when getting to the anchor, some of the rock is soft and loose but not hard to climb around.
There is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range. Looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs. Probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor. Will update this information next time I go up to try it.
This route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.
There is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range. Looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs. Probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor. Will update this information next time I go up to try it.
This route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.
Location
Park on the right at a tight left hand switchback just before the Maverick Buttress. There is a faint trail leading up the right side of the wash that will get you through some cliff bands. Once on top head way left and just keep an eye out for the obvious crack. Approach by walking along the flat upper shelf; don't head up to the crag until you are beneath the climb
4 Comments