Well-protected trad 10s at the Red (or the New)

Hey everyone,

I'm working on getting over my fear of falling on gear and in order to do this, I think I need to fall on more gear. I'm looking for some easy-to-protect 10s in the RRG (or the New?) to climb. Since I can often send, but can also sometimes get spit off of 10s I think this is a good grade for me to target, because I want to climb the the hope that I will send. I don't want to fall on purpose, but I don't want to hop on something so hard that falling is inevitable.

Any suggestions?

Thanks:)

Anything that doesn't have a safety rating next to it in Mikey's NRG book. Seriously most of the routes here take excellent pro.

In terms of the Red, I'll just throw out some of the more obvious/standard routes that may come up, filtering for those I think the protection isn't much of an issue. I'm ordering these generally easiest to hardest based on my own experiences, though YMMV based on hand size and strengths.

- Rock Wars (10a) - popular, but it is a good route. Hit with Autumn + Vector Trouble.
- Vector Trouble (10a) - Will take some smaller cams coming off the ledge, and top part may test your lead head, but the gear is great.
- Jim's Dihedral (10a)
- Oberon (10b) - Slammer hands / lieback the whole way.
- Brontosaurus (10b) - Slammer hands with a tough crux move, extremely well protected.
- Dopper Effect (10b) - Harder to protect than Oberon/Brontosaurus, but a different style route.
- Return of Geoff Beene (10d) - A hard move up high, but good protection throughout.
- Goodstone (10d) - Not the best route, but the short finger section is a good test. Protection appears higher up in the face climbing.

I'm sure others will add their own opinions in. Lots of good options in the 10 range where protection isn't necessarily the crux of the route. Some other routes that may show up include Cruising Lane (10a), Headstone Surfer (10a) or potentially wide climbs (What's Left of the Beeneline, Wide Pride, etc).

Hey thanks guys. This seems like a good list!
I'll be sure to let you know which ones scare the crap out of me the most... And which ones I fall on.

Ooh! If you're at endless you should check out Leave it to Jesus. Maybe test out your gray alien

Great suggestions here! Not a 10 but I'll add Crack Attack which takes excellent gear and has super clean falls. FYI Rock Wars is an enormous slightly flexing flake, so I wouldn't trust nuts.

J. Amundsen wrote:In terms of the Red, I'll just throw out some of the more obvious/standard routes that may come up, filtering for those I think the protection isn't much of an issue. I'm ordering these generally easiest to hardest based on my own experiences, though YMMV based on hand size and strengths. - Rock Wars (10a) - popular, but it is a good route. Hit with Autumn + Vector Trouble. - Vector Trouble (10a) - Will take some smaller cams coming off the ledge, and top part may test your lead head, but the gear is great. - Jim's Dihedral (10a) - Oberon (10b) - Slammer hands / lieback the whole way. - Brontosaurus (10b) - Slammer hands with a tough crux move, extremely well protected. - Dopper Effect (10b) - Harder to protect than Oberon/Brontosaurus, but a different style route. - Return of Geoff Beene (10d) - A hard move up high, but good protection throughout. - Goodstone (10d) - Not the best route, but the short finger section is a good test. Protection appears higher up in the face climbing. I'm sure others will add their own opinions in. Lots of good options in the 10 range where protection isn't necessarily the crux of the route. Some other routes that may show up include Cruising Lane (10a), Headstone Surfer (10a) or potentially wide climbs (What's Left of the Beeneline, Wide Pride, etc).