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What are the single most trafficed climbs in the country?

Original Post
Gus Wathen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Often I gaze at the 60 ft. of huecos and the ever present toprope on "5 Gallon Buckets" at Smith Rock, and wonder, "could this be the most climbed climb in the country?" People have been crushing it all year long from dawn till dusk for the past 25 years.
There is no real way to quantify for the championship, but it got me wondering what other hunks of rock might be contenders for the title?

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I think the Bastille Crack would be one. But evern more climbed would be various routes on the Flatirons due to the number of soloists regularly racing up them.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Double Cross if you don't die.

Smith is pretty damn crowded though. If something out there isn't the most traveled I feel bad for the people that visit the crag that is home to THE most traveled.

Ironman or Gunsmoke might be strong competitors, at least for bouldering. Now that I think of it there are dozens of problems in Bishop that could take the cake.

Nicholas King 1 · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 20

Ancient Art Stolen chimney. Ottos route Independence Monument.

Indian creek: Supercrack, Generic Crack, Scarface, Incredible Handcrack.

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,355

I contend that Canal Zone in Clear Creek Canyon in Colorado is the busiest crag in the US. I did, an albeit brief, use survey there a few years ago and counted 100+ visitors per day on weekends. There are only 20 or so routes there...

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Maybe not the most in the country, but when in season I've always seen people on these routes:

Armed and Dangerous or maybe Underdog @ Rumney

High Exposure,
Horsemen's corner @ Gunks

The 5.9 @ Division Wall, American Fork

James Hicks · · Fruita, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 131
Nicholas King 1 wrote:Ancient Art Stolen chimney. Ottos route Independence Monument. Indian creek: Supercrack, Generic Crack, Scarface, Incredible Handcrack.
There is no way Ottos is anywhere near the top. I would wager that hardly anyone even touches Otto's 2 months or so out of the year. I bet Castleton (either of the trade routes) sees more attempts than either as well. Although Ancient Art could be close. I have never seen crowds on any route in the creek like what happens in the front range. Its just unreal out there these days.

I would second the vote for Bastille Crack though for sure, and maybe Calypso. Montezuma's Tower sees a lot of traffic at GOG too, but I can't imagine its close to what Bastille or Calypso sees. And to another posters point, Canal Zone has got to see a TON of traffic. Any of those moderate routes to the left are almost never open. I feel like Highwire would run a close second though in CCC. The 3rd flatiron, when its open, is nuts unless you hit it early in the AM in the middle of the week. And the First isn't much better. Nothing in the desert sees traffic like what the routes do in the Front Range thanks to the millions of people that live right there.
vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne , or Nutcracker , and Bishop's terrace, and Serenity Crack.

Nicholas King 1 · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 20
James Hicks wrote: There is no way Ottos is anywhere near the top. I would wager that hardly anyone even touches Otto's 2 months or so out of the year. I bet Castleton (either of the trade routes) sees more attempts than either as well. Although Ancient Art could be close. I have never seen crowds on any route in the creek like what happens in the front range. Its just unreal out there these days.
Alright I agree with Otto's. Probably not up there as one of the most climbed. I also agree with Castleton. Both times I've done Kor there have been parties on every pitch, with a line at the bottom as well.

I still advocate for Supercrack in the creek though. The creek is just really spread out, so it may not seem as crowded, but during prime desert season, I have run into people from all over the world there. Sometimes It's impossible to find camping out there. There is always a line on supercrack, sometimes people wait all day to climb it, and end up sending after the sun goes down.
Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Number of pitches has to be considered. There are less multi-pitch climbers out there. For multi, it would be hard to beat 1st, 3rd flatiron standard routes and of course Freeway on the 2nd has to contend for the most popular free solo in the world.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Eric Chabot wrote:Maybe not the most in the country, but when in season I've always seen people on these routes: Armed and Dangerous or maybe Underdog @ Rumney High Exposure, Horsemen's corner @ Gunks The 5.9 @ Division Wall, American Fork
Some place like Rumney (popular close to the road and large urban populations would probably have the route (although at Rumney it will be something in the Meadows or Parking Lot Wall). Could be something in the Black Corridor for example. Or something in Muir Valley (although not close to an urban area. I think one of those would be the most climbed in a year today. But if you are wondering what has the most number of total ascents from the time of the FA then its probably something like Horseman
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I'll suggest Delay of Game at City of Rocks. I don't think the bolt hangers stop vibrating on weekends in-season.

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

As much a people talk about "hoards" at the creek that season is pretty limited as far as the general populace is concerned (Mar-Apr and Oct-Creeksgiving) that's only 20-25% of the year. I'd second something in the front range...that aside from blizzard conditions is going to see an ascent every day.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

It's hard for me to imagine the most-traveled routes in the country being trad routes. It seems like some Front Range 5.9 sport route with no approach would take the top.

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,970

Double Cross in JTree, when it's bolted that is

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

I'd have to vote for a sport or top-rope accessible climb to be honest. Or a boulder. When you look at proportions of climbers, relatively few have trad racks.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Weird. Didn't see a soul at this crag

#aintnojoshuatree

Richard Dower · · Overland Park, KS · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 150

You must disqualify all the 5.8 routes and under at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. I do the stats for the 24 hour competition and there are routes that get over 350 ascents in one 24 hour period and another 150+ in the 12 hour event the day before. This happens every year and think about all the preview ascents during the year. HCR probably has the 30 most ascended routes in the country every year.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

How about Boulder 1 at Stoney Point in SoCal?

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,970
Adam Burch wrote:Weird. Didn't see a soul at this crag
Because it's locals only! Duh!
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Adam Burch wrote:Weird. Didn't see a soul at this crag
That's because "nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded." (Thanks, Yogi).

Is that the east face route on Whitney? Or a Temple Crag route?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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