Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing? A Survey
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Please take the following survey. I will post the results. |
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I don't think there are enough pertinent questions to answer the question in the topic title. |
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I took the survey but the questions a rather strange. In my case, most of my training is climbing, with supplementeray non climbing exercises (mostly core workout, cardio and hangboarding). |
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I can't even answer question #1; I'd say I'm average athletic ability, and can redpoint 10a (trad), so none of these answers apply to me. |
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I couldn't answer these questions either. |
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These questions are pretty lackluster. |
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So, you expect all climbers to divide into 11b, 11d, or 12b? That's an extremely narrow range, and I'm not sure it helps you answer the question. |
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ScoJo wrote:I don't think there are enough pertinent questions to answer the question in the topic title.ScoJo Read the post I made (John Robinson) on the following thread (it is about 17 posts down): mountainproject.com/v/climb… I attempted to explain what I was getting at |
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steverett wrote:I can't even answer question #1; I'd say I'm average athletic ability, and can redpoint 10a (trad), so none of these answers apply to me.steverette: My intention was to question "high level climbers" by my defination, you are not a high level climber. Read what I said to ScoJo |
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hey guys, offer some questions he could put on his survey |
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grog m wrote:hey guys, offer some questions he could put on his survey1. What is your highest sport redpoint grade? less than 5.10 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 higher than 5.13 2. How often per week do you climb, including gym and outdoors sessions? <1x per week 1x per week 2x 3x 4x 5x more than 5x 3. What type of training do you do other than climbing? (check all that apply) Stretching Yoga Running or other cardio Strength Training (weight lifting, bodyweight strength training, gymnastics, etc) Bodybuilding Martial Arts Team/Ball Sports 4. What do your climbing sessions include? (check all that apply) ARC training or other endurance climbing bouldering lead climbing hangboard campus board 5. Do you feel that your non-climbing training helps your climbing, detracts from your climbing, or is neutral? Helps Detracts Neutral 6. Do you do most of your non-climbing activities for fun, or to train specifically for climbing? For Fun To Train for Climbing Harder 7. Are your climbing workouts structured, or do you "just go climb"? Structured workouts just climb and even then it would still miss the point... might be an interesting data set though |
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grog m wrote:hey guys, offer some questions he could put on his surveysize of dick max 1 rep bicep curl max cheesesteaks in one sitting |
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2.7 |
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There were 100 people that participated in the survey. (The survey was free if I kept the participants under 100). Following are the requirements to participate in the survey: You must be a higher level climber. You climb at least 3 days a week either on plastic or outdoors. Now the two questions are: |
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John Robinson wrote:You climb at least 3 days a week either on plastic or outdoors.And for those of us who can redpoint 11d but only climb 2x per week? |
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John Robinson wrote:Now the two questions are: #1 Is your training for climbing just climbing (you may also do Stretching, Yoga, Cardio but you do no strength, endurance or weight training)? #2 Your training for climbing may include all the above but also includes Strength/Endurance/Weight Training? Results: . . . .Your results reference weight training but your survey makes no mention of it. Survey |
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John Robinson wrote:Please take the following survey. I will post the results. surveymonkey.com/r/H2RL7BFI didn't realize 5.11b was below average athletic ability... Maybe I'm hanging around with the wrong crowd. |
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Stagg54 wrote: I didn't realize 5.11b was below average athletic ability... Maybe I'm hanging around with the wrong crowd.Yep you are, go to spain, you'll find that average in that crowd is around 5.13- |
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Who knows what the OP mean by "athletic ability", but I typically interpret it as strength, power, endurance, coordination, agility, etc similar to NFL combine tests or performance of many traditional sports (with the exception of perhaps golf, baseball, etc). Climbers can be pretty "unathletic" even if they climb hard. |
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Brendan N. (grayhghost) wrote: Your results reference weight training but your survey makes no mention of it.I figured Power and Endurance would include weights. |
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All you people bring up excellent points and I don't have answers to all of your questions. Let me try to take it another way: If I wanted to get insights into how good boxers train I would first find good boxers. Next, I would look for boxers that train a lot, then I would ask them what they do to train. To find a good boxer I need to differentiate between boxers. I would look at how much natural talent/athletic ability they have and see how well they do with that talent. If they have below average talent/athletic ability but won a lot of amateur bouts, I would consider them a good boxer. If they had average talent/athletic ability and they won a lot of semi pro bouts, I would consider them a good boxer. If they had above average talent/athletic ability and won a lot of pro bouts, I would consider them a good boxer. Most likely a below average boxer would not win a lot of professional bouts but he could still be considered a good boxer. Now if an above average boxer were to win only amateur bouts I wouldn't consider them a good boxer. (I am hoping you can see how this might correlate to my assigning a below athletic ability climber a 5.11b etc) Like I said, I wanted to get insights into how a good climber trains. I could have used just the criteria I described above and figured if you are a good boxer you probably trained quite a bit but I also thought it might be useful to define how much you train so I came up with a minimum of 3 days a week training. So now I have selected good boxers who train a lot. Now I want to find out what they do to train. Is the most common training just going out and boxing 3 days a week or is it the most common training to box and strength/weight/endurance train 3 days a week. Notice I didn't say the best way to train but what is the most common way to train to be a good boxer. Does anyone see what I am trying to get at. I really don't know if there is any other way to describe what I am trying to do. Maybe I am all wet and the results I am getting mean nothing, but at least I tried. |