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Adjustable front strap on crampons?

Original Post
Brian Zhang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'm wondering if it's possible to adjust the front strap on crampons (hybrid binding). On step-in crampons, you can usually move the front bail back or forward to get the front of the boot just behind the front points. This allows the front points more purchase into the ice before the front of the boot hits the ice.

For front strap crampons is this possible or necessary? I've noticed many boots to protrude very far forward, covering at least half of the horizontal front points.

(etc: I'm looking at the Grivel G12, or similar. It's for alpine ice climbing/steep mountaineering)

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

Depends on the binding. BD's and Grivel's tow baskets are fixed, so they can't be adjusted. Petzl is moving toward making their swapable / adjustable front bail standard (i.e. the lynx basket bail), which can be adjusted. You could probably put a lynx bail on another crampon to get the same effect.

Any particular reason you're going the hybrid binding route instead of just going to the full front bail?

Brian Zhang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'm looking to put them on LS Trangos or Trango Cubes. I haven't really picked yet, but just something light. My Nepal Evos are just super heavy and nothing sucks more than long approaches or bringing a pair of trail runners just for the approach. Cool that Petzl's changing some of their designs. Thanks.

Also, does anyone know if the Vasak climbs similarly to the G12/Sabertooth? I haven't heard as much praise from Petzl's as I have from Grivel/BD.

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

From my sister's experience with the Vasak I'd say it's more of a general mountaineering crampon, akin to the BD Contact. They do have 12 points though to the Contact's 10, so that's an advantage.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The grivel g 12 is a great all around crampon that will climb steep ice as well as any mountain objective. If you buy the cramp o matic version grivel makes an add on front bail that is newmatic that can be adjusted in the 2 front holes on the crampon. The conversion is called Grivel C2N crampon binding converter. They are $25 for a pair.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528
shoo wrote:You could probably put a lynx bail on another crampon to get the same effect.
You can! I have used the Lynx bail on my Sarkens and on BD Sabretooths in order to use them on welt-less boots like Trangos. I used to be that you couldn't but the lynx piece separately, but that seems to be changing.

Edelrid makes a similar piece, and based on Sunny-D's post below it looks like Grivel makes one too.
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Brian Zhang wrote:I'm looking to put them on LS Trangos or Trango Cubes. I haven't really picked yet, but just something light. My Nepal Evos are just super heavy and nothing sucks more than long approaches or bringing a pair of trail runners just for the approach. Cool that Petzl's changing some of their designs. Thanks. Also, does anyone know if the Vasak climbs similarly to the G12/Sabertooth? I haven't heard as much praise from Petzl's as I have from Grivel/BD.
The rear tabs on the vasak heel are quite wide comapred to the outsoles on the current 3 season boots. On a 43 rebel carbon I had a lot of boot sticking out past the back of the pon before the tabs engaged the heel. I ended up riveting pieces of plastic to the tabs to get a snug fit to the boot while getting the heel length right while getting the heel locked laterally. Before adding the plastic to the tabs I did have the heel twist up and out french stepping on a steep slope. The G12 is a better fit to the vibram mulaz outsole IMO.

I have not used the G12 to compare, but the vasak front points and secondary points have been fine on the occasional vertical moat traverse and AI1. I had semi autos, the toe of the boot stuck too far forward to really get the secondary points engaged for any sustained steep terrain. I hacked off the tabs on the front and put on BD "narrow" toe bails, they should work better on steep terrain now. Haven't tested them yet.
Brian Zhang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks for the input everyone.

Also, does anyone know if the Petzl Fil Flex fits on Grivel crampons?
Or has anyone had any experience with the Grivel C2N bail?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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