Bihedral Arete Question-Boulder Canyon

This question is regarding the Bihedral Arete 5.10a route in the Bihederal Upper tier area of Boulder Canyon. I know this is a sport/trad route that has some runouts which you need some protection for. I've read the comments and it appears to be well protected.

My question is, are the hard moves/cruxes protected by bolts? Or, are there some hard moves you might have to rely on pro for if you fall?

- Many thanks

I climbed this route a few weeks ago and it seemed pretty well bolted. It was a few weeks ago but nothing stood out in my mind as having a crux above a piece of pro. It was however my favorite climb of the day

Thanks for the info Travis. It looks and sounds like an awesome route, can't wait to try it out! Anyone else climbed this route recently??

I climbed it last fall - seemed like it protected well (I led P2) - I'm definitely not a bold leader so it must have been fine! :) Great route - have fun!

After you pull on to the slab and the moves take you on an upward and leftward path, there's a narrow and constricted pod which offers either a .5 C4 Camalot or larger nut placement. Skipping this placement means a long runout with an added pendulum in the event of a fall. The climbing is not difficult but it's typical granite slab climbing in the sense that holds are spaced out and you need to be solid on your feet and confident. Not the place to be hesitant and/or scared. Use the gear, that's why you bought it.

I think P2 has an up and left traverse with gear or a run-out. Maybe 5.6 in there? I never placed any gear on that and felt OK with that and didn't think it would be unreasonable for anyone leading at the 10a grade.

There's gear where you need it---once you pull onto the slab, as mentioned above, and then above the first belay trending left--small cams and nuts, I think.

Enjoyable route, good position--go do it!

Tonnere Tower has many well protected 5,10s, too...and they're a little soft on the grade, too.

Good luck!

On the first pitch Crux there is a well placed bolt, and then it gets a bit run out but there is a good spot for a small piece (small nut or 00 TCU)for comfort after pulling over the bulge there. Pitch 2 crux is well protected, just gotta go for it. The initial traverse on pitch 2 is very well protected.

coppolillo wrote:There's gear where you need it---once you pull onto the slab, as mentioned above, and then above the first belay trending left--small cams and nuts, I think. Enjoyable route, good position--go do it! Tonnere Tower has many well protected 5,10s, too...and they're a little soft on the grade, too. Good luck!