Lightning Bolt Cracks Simulator?

Hi all,

We're heading out to Indian Creek and I'm interested to take a look at Lightning Bolt Cracks on North Six Shooter if things are going well. I don't have much wide crack experience though, and there's a fair amount of that on the route. I have a particular weakness for (hatred of?) squeeze chimneys,perhaps because I'm pretty tall.

Could folks suggest some Creek pitches in the wider range that are are good warm-ups for LBC?

Squeez chimneys : Scard face 5.10 First Blood 5.10 the Big "O" 5.10 all three of Thea's climbs will get you stoked for the last pitch of lightning bolt cracks ... It's not that hard the thing that gets you is the exposer.. the fact that this pitch is unlike any of the other pitches.. Good luck DF

Give Liquid Sky a quick lap once you're there, if it goes OK, Lightning Bolts should be fine.

Devin Fin wrote:Squeez chimneys : Scard face 5.10 First Blood 5.10 the Big "O" 5.10 all three of Thea's climbs will get you stoked for the last pitch of lightning bolt cracks ... It's not that hard the thing that gets you is the exposer.. the fact that this pitch is unlike any of the other pitches.. Good luck DF

That's great Devin, thanks.

Like Devin said, the pitch isn't too hard. But a bit of advice I have is tie your knot long. It's amazing how much a figure 8 knot increases the width of your pelvis, so let it hang low.

To answer your question, The Jagged Wedge at Battle might be a good warm up for the warm ups.

Uh oh, just checked the required rack for those routes... Not sure I want to invest in a bunch of Big Bros! Can you get to the First Blood anchor from Blue Sun (which looks quite nice in its own right)?

You definitely cannot get to the first blood anchor from blue sun.

Thanks for all the beta guys... Now if you can just direct me to some Big Bro rental services...

Optimistic wrote:Thanks for all the beta guys... Now if you can just direct me to some Big Bro rental services...

You're welcome to borrow my blue and green depending on when you're around

Shelton Hatfield wrote: You're welcome to borrow my blue and green depending on when you're around

Wow, that would be awesome,thanks! 3/30-4/7 are my dates... I may just buy a blue, too, seems like I'm pretty hooked on the Creek!

You sound sort of like me. I baaarely fit in the last chimney on LBC and making upward progress was a real battle. Didn't enjoy that pitch, but it adds to the adventure, and I still loved the route overall, it's probably one of my 2 or 3 favorite routes in the desert.

Have you done Jah Man (not in, but near the Creek)? I think this is a good test to see if you want to do LBC. I found the "Sister Squeeze" pitch on Jah Man to be fun and mellow. If you don't like that pitch, then you might want to reconsider LBC. Or, do what I did the first time I climbed LBC and bring a tiny person to lead the squeeze. Then you can follow it on the outside as an offwidth--not too bad that way, although it would suck to lead it that way, even with big bros.

Vision Quest in the Bridger Jacks could be a good "warm-up" for LBC, or maybe vice-versa?

Charles Vernon wrote:You sound sort of like me. I baaarely fit in the last chimney on LBC and making upward progress was a real battle. Didn't enjoy that pitch, but it adds to the adventure, and I still loved the route overall, it's probably one of my 2 or 3 favorite routes in the desert. Have you done Jah Man (not in, but near the Creek)? I think this is a good test to see if you want to do LBC. I found the "Sister Squeeze" pitch on Jah Man to be fun and mellow. If you don't like that pitch, then you might want to reconsider LBC. Or, do what I did the first time I climbed LBC and bring a tiny person to lead the squeeze. Then you can follow it on the outside as an offwidth--not too bad that way, although it would suck to lead it that way, even with big bros. Vision Quest in the Bridger Jacks could be a good "warm-up" for LBC, or maybe vice-versa?

That's great beta Charles, Jah Man is definitely on the list, but that's a reason to put it near the top!

No need for Bros in the squeeze... just tie off the cow skull in there. Also it's 5.9, if your worried just go deeper in there. You are the pro now.

You could save a 2 and long sling to protect leaving the squeeze.

Rob "no need for Bro's in a squeeze" wen ever I'm in a squeeze I call up my bro's an I'm like " bro I'm in over my head agin !!!! Then like Ron Popeal I set it and forget it .... It's to flared to properly place a Bro in the upper squeeze any way.... LOL

Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:No need for Bros in the squeeze... just tie off the cow skull in there. Also it's 5.9, if your worried just go deeper in there. You are the pro now. You could save a 2 and long sling to protect leaving the squeeze.

The Bros are for the "homework" routes Devin was suggesting prior to going up to do the actual route... Although some people on the LBC page seemed to suggest that they found a home for a #4 big bro up there somewhere...

Optimistic If you want some help with your homework let me know I'm down for some Wide!!! An will be in the creek same time you are...

Devin Fin wrote: Optimistic If you want some help with your homework let me know I'm down for some Wide!!! An will be in the creek same time you are...

That'd be great Devin, I definitely could use all the help I can get! I'll PM you.

If you're concerned about the exit pitch on Lightning Bolts, my advice is to work your way back into the chimney asap. It opens up in back and undulates so that you always have a comfortable secure stance and do not need any gear. It is really 5.5 or 5.6 in back so long as you can fit. No need to squeeze.

ddriver wrote:If you're concerned about the exit pitch on Lightning Bolts, my advice is to work your way back into the chimney asap. It opens up in back and undulates so that you always have a comfortable secure stance and do not need any gear. It is really 5.5 or 5.6 in back so long as you can fit. No need to squeeze.

Ah, but CAN I fit? That's the question... 6'3", 180#...

Optimistic wrote: Ah, but CAN I fit? That's the question... 6'3", 180#...

Whether or not you can get into the back you should know fairly quickly. Once there I don't think you would have trouble climbing or exiting. It has been a few years for me but I was surprised at how easy the thing was.

ddriver wrote:If you're concerned about the exit pitch on Lightning Bolts, my advice is to work your way back into the chimney asap. It opens up in back and undulates so that you always have a comfortable secure stance and do not need any gear. It is really 5.5 or 5.6 in back so long as you can fit. No need to squeeze.

Interesting. I'll have to keep this in mind for my next trip up there.

I remember trying to get deep in there and getting completely stuck in a fully horizontal position. It was really rather degrading. Eventually I worked my way down slightly, got pointed upwards, and then slowly was able to work straight up. Don't remember what it looked like further in.

Either way I definitely think you should try it now, Optimistic, and you owe us all a detailed trip report :)