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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Rock Garden Valley
> Rock Garden Valley -…
Rock-a-Lot
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 173
votes
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
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Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euthenics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Euthyphro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Keith Cunning, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 5,662 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 10, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb ascends the left hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. Still the line does see some traffic and deservedly so. It is a nice and largely juggy warm up. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.
Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up. The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.
Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay. Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.
Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up. The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.
Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay. Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.
Protection
This climb is reasonably well protected provided you take a big piece or two. A 4.5 Camalot could be used with a #4 to Sew it up, but with just a single #4 the lead is also 'reasonable'. For climbers solid at the grade, I think most will be comfortable with no wide gear at all, as the route is not very insecure.
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