Ask Tommy Caldwell // Win a FREE Edelrid Boa Eco 9.8

Tommy,

What's your mantra?

TC,

1 )At what moment in your climbing career did you realize that you were accomplishing things that other climbers could not, and that you were most definitely 'ahead of the pack'? How did you use that realization to forward your climbing career (from a business perspective) and seek sponsorship, paid talks, and things of that nature in order to keep the dream alive? Do you think you could manage to climb at the level you do (or even close) without the backing of outdoor equipment companies? This question is largely focused on how do you think someone can create a sustainable lifestyle, while mostly climbing full-time.

2) Some big names in climbing have utilized their fame and notoriety to attempt to make the world a better place (ex: Honnold Foundation); do you have plans to do any humanitarian/environmental work in the future? Have you done anything in the past of that nature? What cause, unrelated to climbing, do you 100% believe in? How can you further this cause to make the world a better place?

E

Tommy,

Can we namedrop you now, since we're basically best friends after typing a question to you on a climbing forum?

Too late, I'm already doing it.

Tommy,

Do you know the number for Rock n Resole?

Tommy,

The Dawn Wall was a giant step for difficult, free, big wall routes. Do you think that this is a direction that climbing will be pushed in the future?

I find myself often struggling to keep a good mental space. What are some of the techniques, habits, etc. you have built up not just to keep your body in shape, but also your mind game?

Tommy,

Do you believe that the growing popularity of climbing is hurting or helping the community and the walls? Why?
For instance, Index, WA was saved from being blown to bits as a quarry to being a protected climbing area because of the flow of donations but popular climbing areas see the wearing of surrounding soil and recession of foliage and wildlife due to the traffic.
The rise of climbing in the media is helping to raise awareness of preserving crags across the world, but are we destroying them in the process?

What can we do to best preserve our walls and boulders?

Thanks,
Natalie

Hey Tommy,

Thanks for taking the time to answer. I'm 37 recently and I'm starting to find that on a physical level it's harder to stay as strong without pulling training time out of another life priority. I'm kind of realizing that if I'm going to push myself climbing, it will have to be mentally. Maybe by scaring myself a little more than I'd normally like.

My question is: do you find yourself (on a much grander scale obviously) substituting mentally difficult objectives for physical ones?

If something were to happen to you - which of your peers would you hope to see mentoring Fitz (in climbing and in life?)

-DeDe H

Hey Tommy,

I'm wondering how you, as a father/husband, support your baby's momma/wife in her explorations of the planet.

Thanks,
Keep after it.
Peter

Hey Tommy,

I realize that being held captive in Kyrgyzstan ranks high on your list, but what are you top 3-5 scariest moments of your life and why?

Thanks.

Favorite Wag Bag Experience?

You've clearly thought a lot about the boundary between acceptable/unacceptable risk. Is this largely a cerebral exercise, or do you also get those visceral "Oh no...this is really scary" moments that partly control the decision making beyond just a rational calculation that the risk is not worth the reward? If for some reason you absolutely had to, could you climb a hard x-rated route with the same probability of success as if the moves were the same, but the danger were eliminated?

I was southbounding the AT in the middle of the hundred mile wilderness when we got hit by a freak hail storm when we were totally exposed. It was pouring rain and about 45 degrees. My girlfriend setup the tent when we finally conceded to the cold. We must have been near hypothermic it sucked bigtime. She got the poles in and I turned around to grab my drysac out of my bag. When I flipped back around the tent was gone and she looked worried. I saw the thing literally flying down the side of the mountain. It looked like a hamsterball rolling across the alpine treetops. I never felt so cold and pissed but managed to keep my composure. She started balling right away. It was the first time I ever felt so small and exposed. It was a dumb mistake and she knew it. She let go of the tent for a second and obviously the wind got it. I was pissed even though I kept my cool, and she knew it. I had a tarp stashed as a footprint/emergency, we huddled through the night and it sucked. At the same time it sucked but turned out to be one of my most memorable moments on the trail.

• I did retrieve the tent about a mile down the hill, it was in a tree ripped up*

It was a big mistake made by a good intention to grab the cords to tie the tent down (since it was alpine we were going to pitch on a clean rock).

Sometimes there's that one moment burned into my memory that's the turning point of the whole experience for good or bad. You see the event unfold, you cant do anything about it you just helplessly watch, then deal with the situation at hand.

I would like to read a story that made your world shrink. What was a serious oh shit this night or time is really going to suck moment?

If you could personally craft the public perception of what this climbing sport is all about, what would be the key points you would want people to understand?

Hello Tommy!

You are a great ambassador to our sport, we appreciate it!

1. As a leader in the community, how would you define your roll? Has being a Father changed this at all?

2. How and when will you tell the story about your experience as a hostage to your children?

3. Which MP thread is your favorite? What is the worst topic ever covered on MP?

4. Who will you endorse for POTUS? (disregard if the topic falls under your answer to #3)

Cheers and Thanks!

Where do you see climbing as a sport 10 years from now, and what's the biggest hurdle to getting there (if that future is favorable) or downside to being there (if it's not good)?

Tommy,

What are your thoughts on the role of elite climbers in the creation of climbing ethics and standards?

and,

How do you think we as climbers can encourage environmental awareness in the general public?

Hi Tommy,

This is my hand, it's taken me two and a half years finally determine what my limitations will ultimately be. With the progress I've made, I know I can solid 5.11 climber anything with substantial over hangs, and a 5.12 climber on more vertical routes. My ultimate climbing goal is to do The Nose. Obviously, I'll be aiding portions of it, but I want to free climb as much as possible as well. I've been able to make progress on hand cracks, but strictly finger cracks will be aid for me.

Do you have any advice on the technical side of climbing the Nose that could pertain to my modified hand?

Thanks.

What did you buy with the $10 I gave you before your presentation at Patagonia NYC?

Thanks for doing what you do and sharing it with all of us.