2015-16 Colorado Ice Conditions

On a similar note... Eric's a nerd!!!

Eric's the man!!

Thegillest wrote:Eric's the man!!

At least you got some neve on Lamb's Slide. When we did it, it was a slog from Car to Car.... Hell of a day, but we did it a little later in the year and had more daylight than you did... So props.

One of these days I'll find that route in perfect, neve and alpine ice conditions. That day will be a glorious day.

Saturday 2/27 we climbed at Lincoln Falls and the ice was abundant, thick and good for leading. Sickle on a Stick was chandeliery so we TRed it. Sunday 2/28 we climbed at Lake City Ice Park and the ice was generally good but some of the ice had a lot of air or snow included. We got some good leads and TRs in. Not too busy or picked out. Sunday at the Ouray Ice Park was good in the morning in the Pic' o' the Vic area and New Funtier but by noon any ice out of deep shade turned to slush. We tried climbing just below the lower bridge and it was like climbing a snowcone. Some areas are getting thin or detached from the rock too, so not sure how much longer they will stay open. A lot of areas are closed (seemed like about half of the park). Vail was good when I climbed there on 2/22 at Pitkin and Firehouse falls, but don't know how it is now. Might head back there this weekend.

Anyone been up to the ice at West Gully in Glacier Gorge, RMNP and know what kind of shape it is in?

bigbsr wrote:Anyone been up to the ice at West Gully in Glacier Gorge, RMNP and know what kind of shape it is in?

We were up there a week ago, and it was in decent shape. The middle section on P1 was getting pretty rotten so the best option was to go R or L. A trail was beat out pretty much the whole way (no flotation necessary).

Climbed dreamweaver climbed fine still lots of pow and very little consolidated snow or ice. Iron gates decent in good condition.

Anyone been up or down Flying Dutchman recently?

Climbed Martha yesterday. To echo a previous comment, it's still mostly a snow climb. There is a thin section of climbable ice in the 2nd? Restriction, but probably not enough for a screw. There is a small smear at the crux that is also good for a couple of sticks. I really enjoyed this climb, it's been years since I climbed Dreamweaver, but I found Martha to be the more challenging of the two. A great day in the mountains!

Things are melting fast!
youtube.com/watch?v=RH7S5Gc…

Winter has left the building.

Conditions 3/6/2016

RMNP Hidden Falls Main, great late season conditions


RMNP Hidden Falls Left, not a normal line for Hidden Falls, great vertical climbing


RMNP Hidden Falls Right, great late season conditions, mixed finish is considerably easier than normal due to large volume of ice

Comments:
-3 weeks ago we climbed Hidden Falls Right mixed line, we added a 20 foot piece of old 10.5mm rope from a tree with a steel ring. Vey nice to lead or top rope, no more rop drag, or rope damage. Steel ring was at the rock lip, which would make for a actually easier finish if preferred due to the lack of mantle on the finish
-1 week before that another party added a rap station from the same tree
- In the last few weeks it was removed/stolen! If your that hard up for gear contact me, we will give you some.

Kevin Gillest wrote:-3 weeks ago we climbed Hidden Falls Right mixed line, we added a 20 foot piece of old 10.5 mm rope from a tree with a steel ring. Very nice to lead or top rope, no more rope drag, or rope damage. Steel ring was at the rock lip, which would make for a actually easier finish if preferred due to the lack of mantle on the finish -1 week before that another party added a rap station from the same tree - In the last few weeks it was removed/stolen! If your that hard up for gear contact me, we will give you some.

That's a bummer. That line comes in very rarely though, so I think it would have been appropriate for you to go back up at the end of the ice season to retrieve it so that A: it's not littering the National Park. And B: someone doesn't use it down the road assuming it's bomber when it might have been six years since the anchor was put up.

However, those arguments don't hold up when the anchor is still being used, making the crag safer and more convenient.

If you actually get that stuff back, please let us know though. That would be mind blowing! To a faith in humanity-salvaging level.

Found a set of Chevy car keys at the base of Ames the other day. PM me if they are yours and I'll throw them in the mail in exchange for good karma!

Hadn't seen this posted yet. For anyone headed to Vail in the coming week and going forward. Please see and read this. Access issues in Vail can and will become a reality should things continue unchecked and peoples actions of entitlement persist. Photo is Courtesy of Phil Wortmann

" Access issues in Vail can and will become a reality should things continue unchecked and peoples actions of entitlement persist."

That's really pathetic that the folks at the Vail Nordic Center had to post that sign. After all of the confusion over access to some of the best winter climbs in Colorado for all of those years, they graciously allowed access making it very simple and convenient. They even have very polite signs asking us to stay on the trails that they make for us.

Do we as a community have to lose access to this world class resource to learn what "RESPECT" means? We owe these folks a debt of gratitude, and instead we're spitting in their faces.

x2 to Brad's post. I sent the nordic center a quick note thanking them for the access and blatantly obvious signs.


"Thanks for the email. We appreciate you taking the time to send it. Yes, you guys are very close to losing that parking and having to pay. So, please pass on the word to your fellow climbers.
Thanks again.
Mia"

For heavens sake, if you ski-track-ruining-yayhoos are on the forum, knock that shit off. Vail is already has terrible access/parking. Kthx

I went to vail for my first two times this season. The second time there I saw a dog walker on the trails. Maybe it is not all climbers? But yes, I followed the signed path for climbers the whole way and hopefully everyone else does as well. I would hate to see you guys lose that access to such an awesome place!

Anyone know if there is still solid ice in Redstone? I am not on the facebooks, so haven't been able to see if there's any Redstone updates there. Saw some photos showing the bottom third of the Redstone Pillar cracked a couple weeks ago, wondering if the ice up there is done with these consistent warm temps?

Anyone been up on Total Abandon or blind assumption recently? Curious of the conditions. Thanks