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Elbow injury

Original Post
Jose Marin · · Los Angeles · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Hello everyone,

The last few months I've been bouldering a lot. I usually lead climb, however the gym by place is close and doesn't have a lead wall up yet. I have jumped from V3 to V5 quickly which makes me very happy. With that being said, the last month or so I've been getting some weird pains on my elbows. I heard someone talk about climbers elbow. Is this true? If so, how do you treat and prevent it from happening? Thanks in advance!

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405
Sounds like you have dodgy elbows.

https://vimeo.com/110276040
Ryan Underwood · · Laguna Hills, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

I'm still pretty new to climbing but when I first started I was zooming past the grades at the gym, just trying to pump out the hardest routes I could do. It made me happy too see such "progress." Started feeling slight pain in my left elbow and put it off and just getting sore, so I kept climbing on it for a couple weeks (BIG MISTAKE!). Ended up hurting it really bad on a climb that I slipped and tried holding on, swung out and my elbow was shot! It throbbed for the next 2 weeks even as I didn't climb. At 4 weeks the pain was all but gone with only the occasional ache. I thought I was good to climb easy routes, I was right, if I kept it under 5.9 I focused on straight arms I could climb. An overconfident me jumped onto a V1 and bam just like that re-injured my elbow, FML. 3 more weeks off then eased myself back in on the under 5.9 and wearing a brace. 4 more weeks later I replaced the brace with KT tape and it's almost healed. It's a long slow heal, be patient.

Oh and grab a foam roller and use it religiously. The best medicine for it is rest.

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

The dodgy elbow program works but his instructions were hard to understand

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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