Devils lake top roping

This spring we are going to make our first trip up to Devils lake to do some top roping I'll have all the materials needed to make anchors of all sorts I just kind of want some beta from climbers that top rope there, are there trees to anchor off of or do you sling boulders or use nuts or cams do they have bolted anchor points, any info you could give would be greatly appericated

All of the above with the exception of bolts!

Be prepared to anchor off trees, boulders, and/or cracks. Do not extend your anchors across the trail that runs along the top of the cliffs; hikers are people too, and don't need to maneuver around your anchor materials. That said, you shouldn't have any trouble anchoring closer to the cliff edge.

Cool thanks for the time to put in your input. I'll rather have it than wishing I brought it when we get up there. any suggestions on good first top rope routes that really make Devils lake what it is?

Some East Bluff Classics

East bluff is good for first timer. Highest concentration of classics and easier to locate climbs.

You might wanna pick up a guidebook.

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Expect the climbs to be sandbagged.

Edit: If i have to pick one climb in particular, I'd say Brintons Crack

Consider waiting and compare the new guidebook side by side to the older one mentioned above before purchasing one. Should be out this spring from Wolverine publishing.

Awesome guys thanks a lot!!!!!

Again- anchors should never extend over the trail - - but there are several climbs where it's helpful to have some long pieces of webbing or static rope. Lots of folks bring 3 thirty foot pieces of webbing. I go the static rope route -- 1 fifty foot chunk covers most stuff. But expect some climbs where the pro is a fair ways back from the edge. (That said you could show up with just a set of nuts, a few slings and maybe a cordlette and still be able to climb for months and months)

Chris treggE wrote:Consider waiting and compare the new guidebook side by side to the older one mentioned above before purchasing one. Should be out this spring from Wolverine publishing.

Ahh didn't know it was coming out so soon! I am very excited for that!

Hey Justin- just noticed your other post as well about gear and request for possible pictures of setups etc.

While it's still winter I'd say start here if you have not already.

Some thoughts on gear purchases for DL TR setups here

Great guiding services and classes can be found at Devils Lake - SO worth the investment in the rest of your remaining days to have someone actually show you in person what you've learned from John Long. And check your work.

Main goal is not to die. Second goal is to not wind up here .

Sean Peter wrote: Main goal is not to die. Second goal is to not wind up here .

Favorite thread on the site.

Brinton's is a classic, but also super crowded - almost always has an anchor on it by 9 am on the weekends. I agree that the East bluff (east rampart in particular) is the best place to start; lots of long, high quality climbs with easy setups. Nuts and hexes will be useful, tricams are also good if you don't have SLCDs. I think there are maybe 2 or 3 bolts in the whole park, and all of them are on free standing pillars with no other ways down...assume that you will not be using them.

Once again guys thanks a lot we have picked up the old guide book and will be picking up the new one when it comes available as to gear I have enough 1" webbing and different size slings/runners a #1-13 nuts set, #4-10 hex set I will be gathering cams as the time comes, I also have been thinking about getting a guide just to be shown the ropes and to ask questions about my anchor setups. I really appericate everything you guys are putting on the thread for me maybe one day if I stumble across any of you I'll belay one for ya

I put this together a while back for climbers curious about how to conduct themselves at DL. Someday I'll get to the basics of top rope setups in the specific context of DL.

I wouldn't worry about cams for toprope setups, but they're nice if you want to start leading. With a set of nuts and hexes and webbing, you should be able to set bomber anchors for anything in the park.

What is "tossing a wobbler" James?

Wobbler at around 2:19:

youtu.be/xdb-0VFLp84?t=2m19s

Quiet Wobbler:

youtube.com/watch?v=WO25I9T…

No wobblers will be tossed. Lol thanks for the input love all of it

That second one is funny as shit!

Ted Pinson wrote:I wouldn't worry about cams for toprope setups

I'm always a little hesitant to use a cam in a TR setup. If a hex works- that's the option. Not for safety reasons at all though. Last year we had a 10 year old hex stolen out of a TR anchor at top of East Bluff. Who steals a hex!!?? Another friend had a cam taken from a TR setup on the West Bluff a few years back. She set the anchor, and was at the bottom for only like 5 min and when she got back up it was gone.

So if I set cams, its usually below the lip or at least as out of sight as possible.

Might get some of those DIY battery operated window alarms and figure a way to rig them to the pro ;)

Wtf?! Who steals ANYTHING from an anchor? Nevermind the dickishness of stealing somebody's stuff, you could get them killed!

Have not had that happen, but I also try to avoid cams for anchors. Who steals a hex? That's like $10, lol.