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Hardest pitch in each state?

Marcus Fay · · Big Sky, MT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

North Dakota has this really sick hill...

Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488

Indiana has some crack climbs on private property. Id say some go at 5.10-5.11 That's probably the hardest in the state. There could be some pretty spicy sport routes if climbers got access to said properties.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
Morgan Patterson wrote:CT's hardest route from my understanding is over in the Eastern part of the state at a small crag that's on private property and is posted. Think it was done in the 80's or 90's. Sprague... I think you may have been to this one? Do you by chance know the area I'm referring to and the name of the route?
I think you are referring to the Yosemite Valley Rd crag. Ward Smith put up a short 5.13a sport route (before access issues) a long time ago that I think was the first 13 in CT, but it is certainly not the hardest anymore. I would be surprised if its bolts were still in and it is definitely off limits now. I don't remember the name of the route.
Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
M Sprague wrote: I think you are referring to the Yosemite Valley Rd crag. Ward Smith put up a short 5.13a sport route (before access issues) a long time ago that I think was the first 13 in CT, but it is certainly not the hardest anymore. I would be surprised if its bolts were still in and it is definitely off limits now. I don't remember the name of the route.
Thats the one... didnt want to post the road name though ;-) And ya that sounds familiar that it was first 13 not 14.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Morgan Patterson wrote: Thats the one... didnt want to post the road name though ;-) And ya that sounds familiar that it was first 13 not 14.
The best overhanging 5.10 sport climb in CT is over there somewhere on closed down private property as well. I dont even know if anyone went back for the second ascent!
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
T Roper wrote: The best overhanging 5.10 sport climb in CT is over there somewhere on closed down private property as well. I dont even know if anyone went back for the second ascent!
Bozrah area?

So I guess no 14s in CT that I know of yet, but the one glaring 14 proj is the center line on the North End of Ragged Mnt. Beautiful piece of stone but my understanding is the proj has always been overlooked due to the lack of ability to lead the route. What hard climber wants to work overhanging 14 on TR? Even getting a TR setup on this wall is a major PITA.

And here's a list compiled for bouldering in New England: newenglandbouldering.com/ha…

Funny that we have V14s but no 5.14s due to the ethics in this state...
Kristen Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 3,378
Dylan B. wrote:Using Mountain Project's "best routes for you" feature: Alaska: Delaware: Georgia: Indiana was not listed in MP. According to Rock & Road 2005, there's a 12b on a readout called Unlikely Wall just south of Bloomington. Iowa:
I was trying to avoid using MP data since it probably represents less than half of what is actually out there but I suppose it's a good starting place for some states.

For example, I doubt even with Delaware's size the hardest pitch in the state is a 5.8.
Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

Iowa actually has a few great private sport crags with climbing into the 13s. Sadly it doesn't sound like any of these crags will hit mountain project anytime soon.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Morgan Patterson wrote: Bozrah area? .......Funny that we have V14s but no 5.14s due to the ethics in this state...
Just another eastern CT town with closed rock;)

I bet I know a place that could have a few of the hardest lines. I wonder if anyone in CT has ever sent a 5.14?
CornCob · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20
Dylan B. wrote:Nebraska--nothing in MP, and no routes described in the three areas mentioned in Rock & Road. Maybe something in Niobrara Canyon?
As far as I know there isn't any worth while rock in Nebraska, or at least none that anyone is willing to share. There is ice that forms along the Niobrara near Valentine, supposedly in the WI3-5 range, but that's about it. Ice Jam 2008
Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,323

DE - Rambo (12a/V4) - It's only 20 ft. But hey, it's DE!

GA - Avant Garde (12c) - The V15 at Rocktown is probably the hardest route though

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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