2015-16 Colorado Ice Conditions

Hi all, I'm from out of state and coming in next weekend. I'm looking to climb some easy/moderate routes or top rope single pitch harder stuff and wondering where might be a reliable place to go? I'll be based in Denver/Boulder but am willing to drive for whatever it takes.

Reason I'm asking is because day time temperatures this week look like they're going to be 40-50F in most of the ice climbing areas I've looked at so far (Ouray, Telluride, Rifle, Redstone, RMNP, Vail), with temps in the 20s at night. So what I'm wondering is what can hold out in these sorts of conditions?

Thanks

Try Lincoln Falls. The ice is massive, and very thick. The heat will have little effect on it.

Anyone know if Silverplume survived the heat?

Heard smear of fear was climbed recently? Any photos? Didn't think it would form this year...

Anyone have any idea if anything at moffat has survived the heat?

Hophead10400 wrote:Heard smear of fear was climbed recently? Any photos? Didn't think it would form this year...

I think you're probably referring to the Alpinist IG post. It does not indicate when the photo was taken, but it was certainly not recently.

Nodin deSaillan wrote: I think you're probably referring to the Alpinist IG post. It does not indicate when the photo was taken, but it was certainly not recently.

Thanks Nodin! I saw the IG photo but my buddy said he talked to a guy who recently climbed it. Didn't think it was in, just have fomo thats all!

Anybody been up near Hallett recently? How are any of the big mixed climbs looking? Englishman's, Great Dihedral, Standard Route, etc

The picture of Stanley soloing the Smear is at least 2 years old, possibly 3. I don't remember exactly. Not from this year for sure though.

Any current condition reports for Lincoln Falls?
On the consideration list for this coming Wednesday 2/24
Don't want to make the 1 1/2 hr drive if it's falling apart due to our early spring.

747climber wrote:Any current condition reports for Lincoln Falls? On the consideration list for this coming Wednesday 2/24 Don't want to make the 1 1/2 hr drive if it's falling apart due to our early spring.

Mind you I haven't been up there lately, but it's on the shoulder of a 14er that sits in the shade NE facing. I highly doubt you'll have any issues, and it may be growing.

Our recent wind may have had an effect though. They were saying like 100mph gusts+ yesterday in Breck.

Jaws in RMNP was down Sunday. We weren't even certain it was the right climb. While we stared at it, huge block of ice fell.

Jon H wrote:Anybody been up near Hallett recently? How are any of the big mixed climbs looking? Englishman's, Great Dihedral, Standard Route, etc

I was on the Great Dihedral to upper buttress (not sure which line we were on on the upper buttress exactly, I think the Finch Route) two weeks ago--it may have gotten a bit clogged with snow from this last storm, but there were at least two parties on it this past weekend. We did Love Route up to the start of Englishman's a few weeks ago, before bailing due to time. Super fun and in fine condition, that is not clogged with too much snow. We were also on Hallett Chimney not to long ago, but the typical snow mushrooms guarded the last pitch. Bullet, which we did a little over a month ago is in great condition, and the ice is fat but steep.

On the south side of Flattop, Enter the Dragon is in fine shape with ice on the first pitch (even placed two screws this past Saturday!)

Check out pics on my IG account: instagram.com/nodin_desaillan/

Has anyone had any luck down in Vail with all this warm weather recently? Thinking about heading down next weekend to get a little practice in on some single-pitch stuff but not sure about the conditions!

Trent Hawkins wrote:Has anyone had any luck down in Vail with all this warm weather recently? Thinking about heading down next weekend to get a little practice in on some single-pitch stuff but not sure about the conditions!

We climb Pitkin and Firehouse on Monday 2/22 and they were fine. Other areas looked fine still too.

Anyone know current conditions of Fish Creek Falls in Steamboat? I'm up skiing for a few days, but wouldn't mind getting the crampons/tools out while I'm here.

Ask Kevin at Ski Haus about fish creek falls if you don't get an answer here.

ted cookson wrote:Anyone know current conditions of Fish Creek Falls in Steamboat? I'm up skiing for a few days, but wouldn't mind getting the crampons/tools out while I'm here.

Was up there this past week. Looked like pretty snow covered 3/3+ to me.

Climbed Martha today. Snow still needs to firm up and not much melting in there to make much ice but there was some. No signs of anyone in there recently. A damn fine day out.

In a similar thread... Climbed Kiener's last Saturday. Lamb's slide was nicely consolidated almost neve type snow. Broadway was a bit of a slog at some points but thankfully the small snowfields you cross felt pretty consistent and stable. Upper Kiener's after the technical section off Broadway featured pretty deep snow up the angling ramp, get ready to work hard.

We rapped the N face which was very dry and relatively easy to descend.

Not an ice route but may be helpful if anybody is thinking of heading up there with all of this beautiful weather!