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Anchor Bolt Failure at Owens River Gorge, No Injuries

Original Post
DennisL · · Bishop, CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 75

One of the anchor bolts for Peking Duck at Great Wall of China, Central Gorge pulled out of the rock today.

I was leading Mandarin Orange when I heard one of the two gentlemen in the party next to me exclaim "The bolt just pulled!" Apparently they were using a bolt from the anchor of Peking Duck as a directional for a TR (with the anchors of Yellow Peril providing the top anchors I believe). The directional bolt seems to have pulled straight out while one of them was climbing. I didn't see it happen.

The hardware (hanger, bolt, and hook) are now hanging on the first bolt of Peking Duck as a warning.

Stay safe out there! And when climbing in the Gorge, consider using only placed protection, topping out, and walking off of every route.

The gory aftermath.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

Wow.sketchy.

But your recommendation to top out and walk off at the org is completely crazy and dangerous

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Hard to tell from that picture but looks like it might have just unscrewed from the cone. This happens when you get a spinner and no one bothers to tighten it. Of course this is completely speculation.

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971
DrRockso wrote:Hard to tell from that picture but looks like it might have just unscrewed from the cone. This happens when you get a spinner and no one bothers to tighten it. Of course this is completely speculation.
That was my thought as well.
Can anyone confirm what type of bolt it was? If it was common to use it as a directional, it could have easily come unscrewed over time if not tightened correctly.
MisterE Wolfe · · Grass Valley, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 8,092

John McDonald and I replaced the anchors this morning. The new anchors are a little higher, at the bulgiest part of the wall from the ledge stance, making the rope line a little cleaner over the edge.

Thanks to Marty Lewis for the Mussys and the ASCA for the bolts, hangers and SS quick-links.

Image deleted. Never again.

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
DennisL wrote:And when climbing in the Gorge, consider using only placed protection, topping out, and walking off of every route.
Pretty bad advice as there is tons of loose rock along the rim of the gorge. More so, just because one anchor bolt pulls, one should not assume the thousand other anchors will do the same. Regardless, thanks for the heads up and thanks for the team that rebolted the anchors.
J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
MisterE wrote:John McDonald and I replaced the anchors this morning. The new anchors are a little higher, at the bulgiest part of the wall from the ledge stance, making the rope line a little cleaner over the edge. Thanks to Marty Lewis for the Mussys and the ASCA for the bolts, hangers and SS quick-links.
Thanks for replacing the anchor. That said, although it is hard to tell from your photo, the rock surrounding where you sunk those bolts looks sort of fractured...yeah I know, its the Gorge...its all fractured :) Now that might not be a huge deal if not for the fact that on top of that, the rock is pretty convex, which certainly doesn't add to the strength of the whole shebang. Again, its pretty hard to tell from the photo, so apologies if the rock is better than it looks.

Also, do guys have anything to add regarding why the original bolt failed? Poor rock? Bad installation? Bolt not tightened down so it pulled?
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
J. Albers wrote: Thanks for replacing the anchor. That said, although it is hard to tell from your photo, the rock surrounding where you sunk those bolts looks sort of fractured...yeah I know, its the Gorge...its all fractured :) Now that might not be a huge deal if not for the fact that on top of that, the rock is pretty convex, which certainly doesn't add to the strength of the whole shebang. Again, its pretty hard to tell from the photo, so apologies if the rock is better than it looks. ..
I was thinking the same thing. It looks pretty sketchy putting the bolts in 2 inches from obvious cracks. I am not a fan of long pieces of chain unless absolutely needed, but is there better rock above that you could use with some chain running down if that is the best place for the rope to run?
Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

If you wanted all the anchors in the Gorge with no eyebrows/cracks/pockets within a few inches of the bolts, at least half of the routes would have no anchors.

Andrew G · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 404
splitclimber wrote:Wow.sketchy. But your recommendation to top out and walk off at the org is completely crazy and dangerous
Tapawingo wrote: Pretty bad advice as there is tons of loose rock along the rim of the gorge.
whooooosh!

that was the sound of the joke going over your heads. placing gear, topping out, and walking off are impractical on most routes at ORG...
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Andrew G wrote: whooooosh! that was the sound of the joke going over your heads. placing gear, topping out, and walking off is impossible on most routes at ORG...
fixed that for you
MisterE Wolfe · · Grass Valley, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 8,092

Thank you, Greg.

I have been putting up routes and doing anchor replacement for 20 years. I agree photos can be deceiving, the rock is solid.

Dan Mcdevitt · · sierra eastside · Joined May 2014 · Points: 575

thanks guys for all your hard work fixing those anchors!!!
u da mans brah

DennisL · · Bishop, CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 75

Thanks for replacing the anchors! You guys rock.

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
Andrew G wrote: whooooosh! that was the sound of the joke going over your heads. placing gear, topping out, and walking off are impractical on most routes at ORG...
Alright...funny stuff until someone new to the area doesn't realize that it's a "joke" and actually tries to top out. Nothing in the dude's statement pointed toward him joking.
Andrew G · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 404
Tapawingo wrote: Alright...funny stuff until someone new to the area doesn't realize that it's a "joke" and actually tries to top out.
He's probably just leaving a little room for natural selection to do its thing.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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