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Hardest pitch in each state?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

For MI there's "Resistance" and "Franks Climb" that are suppposed to be 5.13 at Grand Ledge

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Chase, it's hard to even count that mythic, mid-state boulder. So really, Louisiana's hardest route is probably best described as "in Alabama."

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Interesting.

But I'll bet many of these states have some unrepeated 14-'s or even 13's that just might be harder than the "confirmed" routes.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

There is a little climbing in Mississippi at Tishomingo State Park (NE Corner of the state). Nothing really worth noting--as in, the hike in was better.

(Unfortunately, I specialize in places not worth going.)

Emmett Wynn · · Albuquerque · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 70
the schmuck wrote:Well, in NM Sick Man is 14b, & Snake Dance is right around there. Also, Cody had something down at the Tunnel. Is 14c or something?
Yeah after more research those look harder. I've just looked at (not climbed... I wish) Event Horizon, so it was at the top of my head
Mike Stearns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,607

A quick search for SD revealed:
Man Afraid of His Horse - 14a (suggested 13c?) - Horsethief Lake
Divinations - 14a - Bethlehem
Lizzy Beams Desire - 14a - Rushmore & a Skinner route
Mayday Malone - 14- - Spearfish

I have no personal knowledge of these routes to distinguish them.

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

Mississippi - Jean's Overhang 11a trad roof crack

MattH · · CO / NM / ME · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,226

Does Wild River count as a ME or NH crag? I know there's a massive 14a up there. If it counts as a ME crag, it's probably the hardest completed route there. For MA, I think there's a 14- on the cliff below the courtroom but I don't know the name. There's several 13+'s at Farley, and a couple at Mormon Hollow as well. I think there's a short 12+/13- at snake den in RI that might be the hardest thing there.

For Illinois, is there anything harder than East of East St. Louis (13c) at Jackson Falls? The New Zero (v13) is the state's hardest boulder problem.

Chase Bowman · · Durango, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 1,010

Nathan have you've seen this mythical Boulder?? I've tried to find it once with no success and I've heard stories but no first hand accounts. And Eric where is this roof crack in Mississippi?

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
MattH wrote:..I think there's a short 12+/13- at snake den in RI that might be the hardest thing there...
That would be The Rattlesnake 12/12+, another short TR, probably about the same grade as Halloween, just a different style. Unless there is something new that I haven't heard of yet, I don't think there is a 13
Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 310
MattH wrote:Does Wild River count as a ME or NH crag? I know there's a massive 14a up there. If it counts as a ME crag, it's probably the hardest completed route there. For MA, I think there's a 14- on the cliff below the courtroom but I don't know the name. There's several 13+'s at Farley, and a couple at Mormon Hollow as well. I think there's a short 12+/13- at snake den in RI that might be the hardest thing there. For Illinois, is there anything harder than East of East St. Louis (13c) at Jackson Falls? The New Zero (v13) is the state's hardest boulder problem.
If the state line is correct on google maps then the Wild River is in New Hampshire.

I don't think there are any 14's at Farley. Diatribe and All Your Base are both 13+.
MattH · · CO / NM / ME · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,226
Eric8 wrote: If the state line is correct on google maps then the Wild River is in New Hampshire. I don't think there are any 14's at Farley. Diatribe and All Your Base are both 13+.
Ah, I figured as much given that it's listed in NH here. I just remember 113 winding across the border several times between Fryeburg and Gilead.

I was almost sure there was a 14- at that stretch of cliff I mentioned. I'd say Digitizer has exfoliated to 13+/14- status by this point (probably the latter), but I don't think it's seen an ascent since it was easier. Maybe there's something out in GB? Excessive Tunnel Power at Mormon Hollow is another 13+ out there in the pioneer valley.
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

OK: either Tied to the Whipping Post 13a or Merlin 13-. Whipping Post is sport and Merlin is OW roof. Merlin is probably harder, with only one known ascent.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Chase,

Jean's Overhang is at Tishomingo.
I, also, have looked for that legendary boulder of Louisiana--to no avail. It's in Kisatchie somewhere...I heard there's treasure there!

Peter BrownWhale · · Randallstown, MD · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 21

There is a 13a in MD called Captain Crunch

PaulMudd · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 5

I'm curious as to what Kansas has to offer.

Simon Beardsley · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 231

For MD, I believe the hardest established routes are Interzone (12d/13a), at the Friction Wall, and Captain Crunch(13a) at Ilchester. Both were put up by Pat Egan. source (thanks indy!)

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

A 13c went up at Hidden Rocks in Virginia last year.

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

SD: Unless something has happened lately I believe Lizzy Beams Desire is unrepeated. Divinations may have had a 2nd ascent. Either way those are the contenders for the hardest route(s) at 14a. However the things the locals have been putting up lately have been intense and there's no doubt that more contenders will pop up in the next few years.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
Nathan Self wrote:... I, also, have looked for that legendary boulder of Louisiana--to no avail. It's in Kisatchie somewhere...I heard there's treasure there!
Would this help?
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…
jonathannutt.photoshelter.c…

Geez, you guys don't know how to find rock. I haven't been in Louisiana since I lived for a short time in NO as a kid in 1972 and I found it in less than 5 min :))

Here is a map of what I think is the spot:
google.com/maps/dir/31.4763…@31.475154,-92.9935303,982m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m8!4m7!1m0!1m5!1m1!1s0x863a843f11e2f271:0x74385f11b5c3380c!2m2!1d-92.9993099!2d31.4760406?hl=en
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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