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> W Wall: Pummeling Sec…
Glamorama
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 11
votes
Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Misanthrope, The S |
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Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pummeling, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Repulsion S |
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Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio, Bill Launder |
| Page Views: | 3,602 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 25, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This alluring line climbs the steep, southeast-facing blue/white wall about 40 feet right of Lois Lame, ending at a double-bolt anchor under a small roof between some large, cracked pillar-type features. Though it appears ultra-overhanging and blank from the ground, the line is blessed with great deep pockets, hidden from below, and doesn't climb as steeply as it looks.
Start by rockaneering up and to the right of an ugly cleft/chimney full of choss. Step back left, clip the first bolt, and continue up grey, shitty rock. At a right-trending diagonal, the stone turns bomber, about 40 feet up. Clip a bolt, step left, and continue traversing left on killer buckets until you're just below the person-sized hueco. Put your long slings on the bolt below and the bolt at the hueco to prevent rope drag higher on the route.
Have a seat in the hueco, take in the view, then up to another bolt. The climbing to here, about halfway up the route, makes for a good, overhanging 5.10+ warm-up.
Bust through two distinct cruxes separated by good pockets to a finger-lock rest below the finishing corner. Clip a bolt, stretch high for the final clip, and battle past an in-your-face finish to the anchors.
This was named for the book by Bret Easton Ellis.
Start by rockaneering up and to the right of an ugly cleft/chimney full of choss. Step back left, clip the first bolt, and continue up grey, shitty rock. At a right-trending diagonal, the stone turns bomber, about 40 feet up. Clip a bolt, step left, and continue traversing left on killer buckets until you're just below the person-sized hueco. Put your long slings on the bolt below and the bolt at the hueco to prevent rope drag higher on the route.
Have a seat in the hueco, take in the view, then up to another bolt. The climbing to here, about halfway up the route, makes for a good, overhanging 5.10+ warm-up.
Bust through two distinct cruxes separated by good pockets to a finger-lock rest below the finishing corner. Clip a bolt, stretch high for the final clip, and battle past an in-your-face finish to the anchors.
This was named for the book by Bret Easton Ellis.
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