Mountain Project Logo

Bolts on first pitch of Crimson Chrysalis

Original Post
David Deville · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 90

In the Handren guide the topo indicates 6 bolts on the first pitch of CC. I was there today and me and my partner only found 3. We never located the middle or top 3 (in the topo) even when rapping back down. Does anybody know whats up? Have they been removed or are we blind? It definitely made the first pitch a bit spooky since we didn't bring any wide gear and only singles otherwise.

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455

Bump

David Deville · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 90

We looked way over to the right and neither of us could find them! We even rapped way over on the right and still never saw any of them. Who knows, maybe we were just super tired from climbing the day before.

SenorDB · · Old Pueblo · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 8,565

Some friends and I replaced all of the bolts on Crimson Chrysalis in 97-98. Except for the four on the last pitch, which we didn't bother with because we could get gear right next to them. The first pitch had two lead bolts and two belay bolts. The first bolt was about 60' off the ground. It protected face moves on the right where the crack gets wide and the second bolt was about 40' below the belay.

Bummer you got sandbagged expecting bolts that weren't there. I remember that climb having 20-30' run outs as part of the deal. I'm glad that you were able to fire through.

I appreciate the good Samaritan(s) that came by and cleaned this route up and I'd love to see that last retro-bolt disappear. This sort of metal graffiti thing is why I started carrying a bolt removal/patch kit any time I climb in Red Rocks. Adding bolts to exiting climbs is poor form and does the climbing community, and the route, a disservice.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
John Wilder wrote: I can't remember if any of those bolts are original. Maybe one or two? I don't remember 6 on the first pitch when I first did it ages ago.
I've done CC twice and the first time was around 30 years ago. There were no protection bolts on the first pitch then, I think people climbed straight up the crack---that's what I did. I returned maybe fifteen years ago and there was one bolt on the pitch that seemed to be there to allow climbers to move away from a wide part of the crack (and then presumably move back?).
Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

We didn't place any gear on the first three pitches and I don't remember anything particularly run out. I remember 15-20 feet in between bolts.

David Deville · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 90

I guess I'd just like to get confirmation that the Handren guide and Supertopo is wrong so that the MP info could be updated. We wouldn't have minded having some more gear and just staying in the crack. The second bolt (that we found) drew us really far out of the crack, didn't have any bolts nearby (~>30 ft. to the next bolt we found on the face), and just created a lot of rope drag when my partner went back to the crack to get gear in. It was just silly, if we would have found 3 other bolts on the face (as in the topo) then the runout would have been very reasonable, if we would have known to bring wide gear and some extra hand sized, the protection would have been totally reasonable and the bolts unnecessary, but going off of the topo (and bringing inadequate gear because we believed there would be bolts) just made it unenjoyable. My partner was not psyched on the lead of the first pitch! It's a little baffling to me that with the sh$#ton of comments on the CC MP page that nobody mentioned that the Handren guide AND supertopo is wrong. I still kind of feel like the other bolts must be there and we just missed them, but I just don't see how we couldn't find them. I've always found the RR supertopos and the Handren guide to be pretty accurate.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Bolts on first pitch of Crimson Chrysalis"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started