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White Rastafarian’s fall zone boulder moved.

Pete Muffoletto · · Oakland, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Maybe we can start calling White Rastafarian what it is then? There's no way that move is 5.11. I would call it a 5.10b/c at the hardest. Back when WR was "V3" and I was 5'6 (I still am 5'6) I had no problem with dangling my fuzzy little hobbit feet over that landing.

G Halsne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,487

Newsflash...I just read in a recently published native american history book " White Rastafarians Cometh" that the boulder in question was actually moved *for the first time, in 1870 by local natives, wishing for a more pleasant spot to sit while watching that same chuckwalla bask in the sun. Now what!!!? How can we even know where it really belongs!?

That said... How can we even begin to assume our own identity in "ethic"... This Poses several questions...

1) Where all DA buffalo?
2) What is a v3?
3) When did bouldering become "climbing" ?

Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Cool, now just need to set a precedent that every rock ever cleaned from a route in any NPS area must be put back where it came from.

Miike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Adam Stackhouse wrote: That boulder definitely made me think twice before even getting on the thing. It wasn't until much later that I was much stronger that my skill overcame my fear and was able to climb it. I hate shitty landings as much as the next guy or gal, but sometimes we've got to respect the heritage of some climbs.
Adam....you sent White Rastafarian? (V3/5.11+)R? When did you ever get that strong and especially that bold at bouldering...I'd like to know, exactly..

And you know Jonny Gipson? How's he doing these days since the divorce? Seen him out climbing or at Todd's house? I kinda thought he was long out of the whole scene, focussed on surfing and the occasional Vegas nightclub...
Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

Ooooooh! Whore-off! Errabodah! Ther gone be a whorr off!

Miike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Although I do think that little rock was part of the 'history' of that climb, and made it that much more ballsy, modifying landings is long part of bouldering, and that is an extremely minor modification. It would have been moved long ago if it wasn't so heavy, that's for sure.

When the cholla was removed from The Chube, did people go on about that for 6 long winded pages on here too? Jeez, folks this is minor compared to some of the bolting that has gone on on established routes.. and the actions of certain "Guide Services" (in some cases involving some very well known climbers, by the way)...

If anyone actually did or does tell NPS about this, they are truly retards, no question about that. That could lead to some real modifications, like in the form of yet more ugly signage, or worse...the NPS has no problem with modifying whatever they f-cking feel like, and it is rarely pretty...

In a forum full of climbers, all of whom have benefitted at some point by modifications to the natural environment, I don't see how anyone can get all excited about this...at all.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
youtu.be/Q-Z1CfMB_cM

Someone needs to move that boulder out from underneath this problem!! People with no business being up there are going to get hurt.
Matthew Navarro · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 10

^ The only part about your statement that is true is "They have no business there" The rock belongs and has more right to be there more than we do. Leave the rock or take the risk of getting drop kicked. (just kidding, I can't jump high enough to drop kick)

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Matthew Navarro wrote:^ The only part about your statement that is true is "They have no business there" The rock belongs and has more right to be there more than we do. Leave the rock or take the risk of getting drop kicked. (just kidding, I can't jump high enough to drop kick)
My statement was pure snarky sarcasm. I don't blame you though I wouldn't want to read the entire thread again either.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Mike Brady wrote: My statement was pure snarky sarcasm. I don't blame you though I wouldn't want to read the entire thread again either.
Usually snarky sarcasm has a cute little ;) at the end, that is unless you are the type who values the ;) as some kind of creepy internet signature.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
T Roper wrote: Usually snarky sarcasm has a cute little ;) at the end, that is unless you are the type who values the ;) as some kind of creepy internet signature.
Noted ;)
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Mike Brady wrote:Someone needs to move that boulder out from underneath this problem!! People with no business being up there are going to get hurt.


I keep moving it out of the way, but some psycho keeps moving it back... Upon hearing need for danger in bouldering I planted a bunch of cactus and yucca bushes under pig pen. Some ecological insensitive twat keeps on squashing them with pads and bodies.

Also, talk about some horrible spotting.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
matt c. wrote: I keep moving it out of the way, but some psycho keeps moving it back... Upon hearing need for danger in bouldering I planted a bunch of cactus and yucca bushes under pig pen. Some ecological insensitive twat keeps on squashing them with pads and bodies. Also, talk about some horrible spotting.
I appreciate your efforts. once it stays out of the way we should dig a pit and fill it with foam. Then people won't need to learn how to do a v1 mantle move, they can just drop like they do in the gym.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Bumping because MP is boring me with useful information

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Mike Brady wrote: I appreciate your efforts. once it stays out of the way we should dig a pit and fill it with foam. Then people won't need to learn how to do a v1 mantle move, they can just drop like they do in the gym.
All kidding aside, I think gym bouldering produces a higher frequency of injury than outdoor. My doctor's husband - healing from a broken ankle. My old climbing partner - torn meniscus/knee surgery after a gym bouldering sesh. Kids be snappin' they legs all day long up on the mats. No thanks.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Adam Burch wrote: All kidding aside, I think gym bouldering produces a higher frequency of injury than outdoor. My doctor's husband - healing from a broken ankle. My old climbing partner - torn meniscus/knee surgery after a gym bouldering sesh. Kids be snappin' they legs all day long up on the mats. No thanks.
The only bone I have ever seen sticking out of someone was because of the gym!
Chan Shin · · Fontana, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

"Climb w/ Confidence.

If you don't feel confident about it for whatever reason, move on. Be mindful of your environment and assess risk properly. But if you want to test yourself, then test yourself, and do so with courage and confidence. You know you're strong enough, and you know you're good enough."

All that needs to be said. The danger that accompanies the climb makes it that much more entertaining. Just like riding a motorcycle as opposed to driving a car. If you doubt your own abilities and lack the confidence to face the danger then back off and stay safe. You're not a pussy for not wanting to hurt yourself. On the other hand, you are a retard if you attempt something outside the range of your abilities knowing well the consequences if you fail.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Tim Lutz wrote: Only the rocks are Holy, vegetation is the Devil's work.
OK OK my mistake. You boulderers are soo finicky. So here is was we will do: we'll dig a giant pit on the landing zone of gun smoke. Then we'll line the pit with sharpened, newly forested Joshua trees (we'll keep the slack lines attached for good measure). We can throw in all the chopped bolts from double cross to add a hint of tetanus. Then we'll cover the top of the pit with yucca leaves and foam. Then boom, instant classic.

One thing I am not really sure about, can we move boulders into the landing zone? I feel like adding the Holiest of rock can only enhance the problem. Mike will you donate your precious WR rock to the cause? I think it will really enhance things.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
matt c. wrote: Mike will you donate your precious WR rock to the cause? I think it will really enhance things.
Only if you replace it with something of equal or greater value.;0

The rock is a rock. It is not what bums me out.
Mut Adelman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
John Long wrote:I didn't do the FA. John Bachar and I did it together - can't remember who went first. It was never a hard problem, just an exciting one, and once you got up a ways, into the 5.11 move, I don't think you could hit that boulder - but maybe I'm not remembering this correctly. I don't see moving that boulder as any big thing. If you were cutting down a tree or something, that might be an issue. But so far as I can tell what's really going on here is people are clearing out the base for aspiring hardmen/women to get a feel for the first moves without crashing and buring on the landing. White Rasta is almost a tourist attraction, and is so far away from being any kind of testpiece that it all seems good to me. Hard to believe that problem went down I think 41 years ago (1974??). Wink, my brother, and you're all old and shit. JL
HaHa. John is way too nice. Let me translate so most of you can understand.

Who fucking cares if the boulder was moved. You all are a bunch of pussies. Stop your complaining and go climbing. If that is your test piece, keep studying.

I haven't climbed too much in the past few years but if the people on here are representative of the current climbing community then the climbing community sucks... ballz!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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