Best Harness for Ice and Alpine?

Bill Kirby wrote: I have a Petzl Corax. It has 4 ice clipper slots, enough gear loops and it's comfortable. It is heavier than others but so am I. I don't think the Corax takes up too much space in my pack. I use a 35L most of the time and can fit what I need in there plus the harness.

I also have a Petzl Corax. I like it for being such a versatile, inexpensive harness, but mine definitely only has 2 ice clipper slots. Where are your second 2?

Mammut Togir (Slide or Light). Very light, similar construction to Arc'Teryx, easy to add 5th gear loop (designed for it), very durable tie in point that won't prematurely wear out like Arc'teryx, packs small, good gear loops, a great alpine or alpine cragging harness. They have been on sale recently for a fraction of the cost of the Arc'Teryx harnesses, and the tie in point will last many times longer.

Also, I don't understand your comments on the ice clippers slots. The Togir only has 4 if I recall correctly. Some of the older Arc'Teryx mixed climbing specific harnesses had a lot of loops, but the Togir has 1 in front of the anterior gear loop and one in between the gear loops, for a total of 2 on each side.

Linnaeus wrote:Mammut Togir (Slide or Light). Very light, similar construction to Arc'Teryx, easy to add 5th gear loop (designed for it), very durable tie in point that won't prematurely wear out like Arc'teryx, packs small, good gear loops, a great alpine or alpine cragging harness. They have been on sale recently for a fraction of the cost of the Arc'Teryx harnesses, and the tie in point will last many times longer.

The Arc'Teryx tie in point durability issue was fixed after the first generation of harnesses. It is no longer an issue.

But yes, they are a fraction of the cost, and look pretty good for the purpose.

CallumRD1 wrote: I also have a Petzl Corax. I like it for being such a versatile, inexpensive harness, but mine definitely only has 2 ice clipper slots. Where are your second 2?

I'll try and take a pic of my harness. I don't know what to write.. The 3rd and 4th are behind the 1st and 2nd?? Haha..

Thread fizzled. Hoping to find one I have not seen that doesn't cost $160!

Edelrid Huascaran looks interesting, not so sure bout that thong structure! Looks to only have 2 gear loops and 2 ice clippers. Not much info on it yet. I want the removability of the Mammut Zephir Altitude buckles with 4 each ice and gear loops, damnit!

Not too impressed with new offerings:
blog.weighmyrack.com/2016-r…

I bought the grivel harness as soon as I could get my hands on it. It sucks. The drop seat on the leg loops comes undone while climbing and so does the small strap that attaches the leg loops to ye belay. Mine only has slots for two ice clippers. Worst harness I've ever bought.

Dave Bn wrote:Has anyone gotten their hands on or gotten laps in any of the Grivel harnesses. They seem to hit all of the OPs recs. Sure look sexy and with huge gear loops and weigh less than the Arc'teryx and only 2 oz more than the BD couloir.

I really like my CAMP Air CR for ice and alpine - superlight, two ice clipper slots and comfortable. I have the older version, the new version looks better but is slightly heavier. Petzl Sitta looks excellent too.

OK that's a handful of votes for Arcteryx 395A,
Couple votes for the Petzl Corax.
A few votes for the BD Couloir.

It seems like we are evaluating two different kinds of ice harnesses.
One is a super light alpine skiing type you'd use on glacier hiking such as the BD Alpine Bod. The other is a ice cragging harness meant for Ice Climbing at altitude.
I guess I'll just have to buy both and use them where appropriate. I'm not going to be climbing much ice this season so I will wait till prices go down in the spring and summer.
Kevin

Has anyone taken a lead fall in the couloir harness (even if in a gym)? Is it painful?

Well if its good enough for Ueli Steck its good enough for me.
youtu.be/tT3hyLvYNNo

Gavin W wrote:The Dead Bird AR395A has the features you list for the M270, plus adjustable legs (only 4 ice clipper loops though). It also doesn't have padding that would soak up water, which I think is an important consideration, and is really lightweight (definitely a consideration for alpine). The gear loops can also be flipped around, so that gear is inclined to slide to the front or back of the loop, whichever you prefer.

My favorite to date.

I have the Grivel Posiedon but have not warmed up to it. The leg loops want to slide forward and down constantly, the threaded rope catch at the leg loop constantly comes undone...3-4X an outing...I finally shoe-go'd it. I found that the ice clipper location is too far to the back and are a PITA when on really steep sustained ice.

The AR395A answers all of these questions. 4 ice clipper slots, adjustable gear racking system, comfortable, simple well thought out design. I'm using it for rock now...don't want to give it up! Huge downside is that you could buy three harnesses for the same amount you would pay for this puppy. Still no regrets! ;)

m.youtube.com/watch?v=9R9lL…

I am selling one brand new with tags in size L (I'm 32 waist and it fits well) for $117 plus shipping.

Resurrecting this thread as I am in the market for an "alpine" harness. This is something I will primarily use climbing snow and alpine ice routes  (Sierras and Idaho's Sawtooths, Lost Rivers, and Pios) ice cragging, and the occasional long approach rock route or ski descent. Anybody use the NEW BD Couloir, or Blue Ice Chouca? How are the ice clipper slots (design and position). For comparison, I wish the slots on my Petzl Adjama were tighter, longer, and more forward (rear ones are almost useless for me). Dont care much about comfort as I will likely have some layers on, and dont take falls on this stuff. I cant think of a time I've had a hanging belay on a route like this, and rapping a pitch or 5 in an uncomfy harness really isnt a big deal. I would rather have 4 good ice slots than 4 gear loops. I can always sling gear. And I would rather have 2 good slots and loops than 4 shitty ones. Any more new harnesses not previosly mentioned in this thread? Also sizing is an issue when I tried on an old style Couloir. I sit between S/M amd M/L. The S/M fits perfectly with only one layer, but I worry it will be too small if I am dressed to climb in Hyalite in winter. The M/L is huge with only one layer.

I have a Mammut Zephy Altitude for an alpine harness, and definitely recommend it.  I use it for alpine climbing and mountaineering where space and weight are at a premium.  It only has 2 gear loops (4 slots for ice clippers though), so on gear-heavy missions it may not be enough.  Light, packs down small, but it's still functional as a harness for that type of climbing.  Rappelling isn't very comfortable but it works.

I don't see any reason to use a harness like this for ice cragging.  Just use a regular full featured harness with ice clipper slots for that.

https://us.mammut.com/p/2110-01122-5924/zephir-altitude/

My vote is for the Petzl Sitta.  Light, compact, and extremely comfortable.  In fact, it is much more comfortable than any other harness I've tried, including offerings from BD, Petzl, and Misty Mountain.  I think we'll see many more similar harnesses in the future that split the dyneema strands to distribute the load across the belt. Leg loops are fixed, but there is elastic that allows the leg loop to conform to what you're wearing.   The harness does not have double buckles, but if you buy the right size, that will not be an issue.  One big problem with this harness is the price - 2-3x more than other harnesses mentioned in this thread.

You're going to have to get a separate harness if your plan on ice cragging. The coulouir will work fine for the others, but there's no way you're going to want to weight one of those for any amount of time. I use the petzl altitude for alpine glaciers, moderates. Rappelling in the altitude doesn't feel very good at all, but the thing packs up to the size of a soda bottle and weighs nothing. I couldn't imagine taking a serious fall in one of those, they're pretty much straight dynema. 

The Arcteryx FL-365 might be a good harness to check out if you really want a single do it all harness. 

Nick Sweeney wrote:

My vote is for the Petzl Sitta.  Leg loops are fixed, but there is elastic that allows the leg loop to conform to what you're wearing.   The harness does not have double buckles, but if you buy the right size, that will not be an issue.  

I used to own the Petzl Sitta. Definitely a great harness, but these two sentences are things to look out for if you're a skinny cyclist/skier. Snagged one on a good deal, but the Medium's leg loops were too tight even without layers and the Large was too big around the waist. Again, great harness but definitely try one on first.

Just purchased an Edelrid Wing but haven't gotten to try it out yet, another choice to look at.

The reason I'd use it ice cragging is I dont like the ice slots on my regular full featured harness (Adjama) and hoping whatever I get would be better. Ive used BD clippers, Petzl clippers, and some off brand I cant recall. They all suck with the Adjama. Or rather, the Adjama sucks with them. Even ice cragging I still dont take falls, so I'm not super convinced the comfort thing is a big deal, especially if I have softshell pants and expedition weight baselayer under my leg loops. Maybe I am being naive? I've never used a superlightweight harness.

I use a light alpine harness for ice, I think it's fine. I don't fall on ice regularly and suspect if I took a lead fall I'd have bigger problems than bruising from the harness. I've rapped and hung from many a belay. Like you say not too bad with winter layers. 

I had an older Couloir but last season I got the CAMP Alp Mountain which I like better. Nicer buckles and loops. Weighs a couple of ounces more but still more compact and lighter than a rock harness.

One more for the AR395! I know I will get crap for being a cross dresser but...I just appropriated my girlfriends un-used AR395 in Wmns LG and I am super psyched because with layers I am between a MD and LG in the Mens' version but the Wmns LG is a perfect fit with room for adjustment for extra layers. Plus I get the sweet Deep Purple color that will accentuate my colorful Euro-look that I am going for this season. With Petzl Ice Clippers in a good spot between the gear loops, comfortable waist belt and leg loops I think this will be my daily driver on everything this winter.