Quiet Warm areas in RR? and a rack question

How crowded should I expect to find the solar slabs in mid-week, early February? I obviously would like to do the classics like everyone else but for me solitude and natural beauty are a part of route quality. Any recommendations for moderate, warm multi-pitch that would be relatively quiet in early Feb? Also, access form someplace other than the loop road would be a plus! I know this is Red Rocks and its not like I need to be away from all people, just don't want to be part of a crowd, get in the way myself, or wait in line.

Thanks!

Oh PS, Rack recommendations: Any use for tricams there? I wouldn't think so... Also, as far a cracks go, I seem to remember them being mostly pretty even; how useful are tapers? Trying to whittle away some weight....

Thanks again!

Check out the South Face of Windy Peak. Might be exactly what you're looking for.
Jubilant Song - 5.8
Hot Fudge Thursday - 5.9
Western Swing - 5.10
All great choices there.

Being outside the loop road and a somewhat beefy approach makes it feel slightly remote. You'll probably even see a bighorn ram or two as well.

As an added bonus, you get to top out on a summit and the walk off is super straightforward and quick.

If you move fast on the wall you can definitely do 2 or 3 routes up there! Makes for a kick ass day climbing with a lot of vertical milage.

Thanks Tony, that sounds perfect!

No tricams? No tricams? NO TRICAMS????? I don't wanna live in a world where trad climbers leave the ground without at least a pinky clipped on.

But seriously, Red, Pink, Black, Pink, and maybe an extra Pink.

Well, OK then, I'll bring the tricams :)

Tony Luchetta wrote:Jubilant Song - 5.8

+1 for Jubilant Song, it's my wife's favorite multi-pitch at Red Rocks. Nice and warm on a sunny day and there's a good chance you would have it to yourself on a weekend.

As for tricams: If you like them feel free to bring them, but it's fairly unlikely you will get on a climb where a tricam is the only piece that will work in a given placement.

If by tapers you mean nuts or stoppers they work well, but I would still bring cams. There are a few uniform/splitter cracks around, but for the most part they are pretty uneven.

Mid-week in February should offer you the prospects of relative peace and quiet at any trad climbing area at Red Rock, so I wouldn't worry too much. March and April are when it really picks up. I've used tapers on several routes at RR but only on first ascents and obscure routes; you shouldn't need these or Tri-cams on any trade route. Have fun!

Thanks! We will head up to Windy Peak one day and Rainbow mountain another. It seems like there are so many great routes it'd be hard to go wrong; if the classics are busy, just climb something else... it is all stellar by Vermont standards. Last time I was there I was kicking myself for just bringing draws and sport climbing; won't make that mistake again.

Oh, Doh, Up top there I wrote "tapers", but what I meant was "offset tapers". I mean of course I'll have nuts, but I was wondering about offsets. oops, my bad

Ira O'Meara wrote:Oh, Doh, Up top there I wrote "tapers", but what I meant was "offset tapers". I mean of course I'll have nuts, but I was wondering about offsets. oops, my bad

Offset nuts are standard issue for Red Rock climbers. The offsets designed by Hugh Banner and now made by DMM are hands down the best nuts for the area, I guarantee you.

I like the offset nuts for our sandstone. You can certainly get by with a more standard shape, but HB/DMM offsets in the medium to large sizes are great.

The DMM offsets are the best nuts for...everywhere.

Sweet, I love those things too

Was out on Johnny Vegas today, and there was only one party ahead of us on Solar Slab. Definitely not crowded. There is a fair likelihood that you could do it and be by yourselves during the week in early February.