Best Harness for Ice and Alpine?
|
Edit: (Since this post 10 months ago I have bought a Dead Bird harness.) Ok what features should a dedicated ice and alpine harness have? Something that can go ice cragging in Ourey and Hyalite, but also be great to take up Liberty Ridge and Cassin Ridge. Something that will be over several layers. 1) Ice clipper loops or be compatible with the BD ice clipper. 2) Adjustable legs for different layers. 3) Drop seat so pooping is easier. 4) I like the double buckels so the belay loop is in front, the gear loops stay on the sides, and tail is aligned with the spine. 5) (edit add) weight as little as possible, yet have enough padding too rap on. 6) Pack into a small size so it doesn't fill up the backpack. 7) Something I've missed (you tell me.) BD Couloir is just a little too skimpy. Perfect for the Grand Teton trade routes where you carry it more than use it on the one rap. BD Lotus harness has features 1,2 & 3. And has padding too. BD Xenos harness has features 1,2,3,& 5. and padding too. Arcteryx M-270 has 1, 3, 5, & 6 and has removable gear loops for backpack waste strap compatibility. The Edelrid Cyrus has feature 1 and I like the lumbar support area, but too heavyish. Mammut Togir Light, has features 1, 3, & 5 and BOY DOES IT HAVE ice clipper options! 4 is enough. Petzl Corax has features 1, 2,3, & 4 but its heavy(ish). Petzl SITTA has 1 & 3, looks sexy, and gear loops are subdivided for the type A personality. The DMM Renegade has 1,2,3 and 5. Thanks to the slide design it can do #4 with only one buckle. Great idea. What harness do you climb on and why? |
|
Beal Ellipse 1, 2, 3, 4 |
|
DMM Renegade. |
|
Kudos to Alpinejason for the price comment. For me it's not a factor because I'll use this harness for the next decade. So saving or spending the $40 difference fades away quick. (Truth; I've owned more cars than climbing harness'. And that says something because since 1995 I've phased in and out of sport rappelling, gym climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, canyoneering, ice climbing, mountaineering, Alpine rock climbing, big walling, and now I'm into Alpine Ice. Never got excited about glacier hiking.) |
|
"Alpine" means different things to different people I suppose. In my book, though, a alpine harness should: |
|
The Dead Bird AR395A has the features you list for the M270, plus adjustable legs (only 4 ice clipper loops though). It also doesn't have padding that would soak up water, which I think is an important consideration, and is really lightweight (definitely a consideration for alpine). The gear loops can also be flipped around, so that gear is inclined to slide to the front or back of the loop, whichever you prefer. |
|
|
|
Have the BD Aspect Harness, and it's all right, but would not rank 'Best' by any means. |
|
+1 wfscot |
|
the BD aspect has everything I could ever ask for, good gear loops, 4 ice clipper slots, haul loop, adjustable legs and speed buckle. I find it to be pretty packable. Its no dead bird, but I have a BD couloir that I use for ultralight missions. |
|
If you get a chance to try on the AR395A I would definitely give it a go. It doesn't have any padding to speak of, but the "Warp Strength Technology" or whatever the heck they call it, which spreads out the strands of the webbing, is really comfortable since it disperses weight so well (I had a chance to hang in one, and it was more comfortable than my BD Momentum). They've also updated it from the previous models (including I believe the M270) which were susceptible to the webbing collapsing on itself (between the spread out strands) and creating pinch points. |
|
I've switched from the aspect to the AR395. |
|
Camp Blitz |
|
Luc wrote: Scrap the Black Diamond clippers and get the Petzl ones, they don't rotate and I've seen less of them break.Ever seen anyone use the DMM Vault? Over kill on the locker, but I like the wire one. youtube.com/watch?v=RfGxvEJ… |
|
CAMP Blitz is okay, and I used one as my only harness for about 2 years. Mammut Zephir Altitude is much better. The separating buckle that doesn't have to be rethreaded kicks ass. |
|
Has anyone gotten their hands on or gotten laps in any of the Grivel harnesses. They seem to hit all of the OPs recs. |
|
Dave Bn wrote:Has anyone gotten their hands on or gotten laps in any of the Grivel harnesses. They seem to hit all of the OPs recs. Sure look sexy and with huge gear loops and weigh less than the Arc'teryx and only 2 oz more than the BD couloir.WTF? Is that a "cup" in front? I mean, I've taken a shot to the crotch from breaking ice before, but... |
|
Gunkiemike wrote: I've switched from the aspect to the AR395... Scrap the Black Diamond clippers and get the Petzl ones, they don't rotate and I've seen less of them break.Agreed on both. I have the AR395, and it is excellent. BD ice clippers are terrible. Gunkiemike wrote: WTF? Is that a "cup" in front? I mean, I've taken a shot to the crotch from breaking ice before, but...The cup is in the back. It's a detachable back brace for hanging belays. |
|
kevinhansen wrote: Ever seen anyone use the DMM Vault? Over kill on the locker, but I like the wire one.Haven't used it, but I agree, the wire one makes sense. Especially when you think about the fact that you have hundreds of dollars worth of screws, and the only thing keeping them in your possession is a $6 piece of plastic. I've never seen one break myself, but I've a few stories of lost ice racks that make me wary. |
|
So far that makes 4 votes for the Arcteryx 395a. |
|
I have a Petzl Corax. It has 4 ice clipper slots, enough gear loops and it's comfortable. It is heavier than others but so am I. I don't think the Corax takes up too much space in my pack. I use a 35L most of the time and can fit what I need in there plus the harness. |