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Best Harness for Ice and Alpine?

Original Post
Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

Edit: (Since this post 10 months ago I have bought a Dead Bird harness.)

Ok what features should a dedicated ice and alpine harness have? Something that can go ice cragging in Ourey and Hyalite, but also be great to take up Liberty Ridge and Cassin Ridge. Something that will be over several layers. 1) Ice clipper loops or be compatible with the BD ice clipper. 2) Adjustable legs for different layers. 3) Drop seat so pooping is easier. 4) I like the double buckels so the belay loop is in front, the gear loops stay on the sides, and tail is aligned with the spine. 5) (edit add) weight as little as possible, yet have enough padding too rap on. 6) Pack into a small size so it doesn't fill up the backpack. 7) Something I've missed (you tell me.) BD Couloir is just a little too skimpy. Perfect for the Grand Teton trade routes where you carry it more than use it on the one rap. BD Lotus harness has features 1,2 & 3. And has padding too. BD Xenos harness has features 1,2,3,& 5. and padding too. Arcteryx M-270 has 1, 3, 5, & 6 and has removable gear loops for backpack waste strap compatibility. The Edelrid Cyrus has feature 1 and I like the lumbar support area, but too heavyish. Mammut Togir Light, has features 1, 3, & 5 and BOY DOES IT HAVE ice clipper options! 4 is enough. Petzl Corax has features 1, 2,3, & 4 but its heavy(ish). Petzl SITTA has 1 & 3, looks sexy, and gear loops are subdivided for the type A personality. The DMM Renegade has 1,2,3 and 5. Thanks to the slide design it can do #4 with only one buckle. Great idea. What harness do you climb on and why?

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

Beal Ellipse 1, 2, 3, 4

Only 2 ice clipper slots and they kind of suck though. Half as expensive as some of the other options.

DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

DMM Renegade.

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

Kudos to Alpinejason for the price comment. For me it's not a factor because I'll use this harness for the next decade. So saving or spending the $40 difference fades away quick. (Truth; I've owned more cars than climbing harness'. And that says something because since 1995 I've phased in and out of sport rappelling, gym climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, canyoneering, ice climbing, mountaineering, Alpine rock climbing, big walling, and now I'm into Alpine Ice. Never got excited about glacier hiking.)
But for someone just getting their feet wet, price is a factor for sure because they may bail after two or three trips.

Scot Hastings · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

"Alpine" means different things to different people I suppose. In my book, though, a alpine harness should:
- Be super easy to get on/off, including while wearing boots/skis/crampons/etc., so that I don't have to wear it except when I need it
- Occupy the smallest amount of space possible in my pack when I'm not wearing it
- Carry a bare minimum amount of gear
- Allow for varying layers
- Be just enough to save my life in the unlikely event that I fall (not because I'm good, but because I generally don't push my grade in the alpine)
- Weigh as little as possible

By those standards, BD's Couloir is pretty close to perfection. I certainly don't want to carry an extra buckle around (#4) and I'll probably be able to take my harness off to poop (#3).

Of course, other factors such as hanging belays, multipitch rappels, fall likelihood, etc. might suggest a more comfortable or full-featured harness. Likewise, you might want more gear loops and/or ice clippers if you're carrying a ton of gear. I generally avoid doing that in the alpine, though.

As for ice climbing, it really depends. If I'm ice cragging, where I might hang or take a fall on TR, I'm going to want something with more padding with 4 clippers for carrying and organizing ample screws. My current goto is BD's Aspect. It has your #1, #2, and #3 covered.

Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

The Dead Bird AR395A has the features you list for the M270, plus adjustable legs (only 4 ice clipper loops though). It also doesn't have padding that would soak up water, which I think is an important consideration, and is really lightweight (definitely a consideration for alpine).



The gear loops can also be flipped around, so that gear is inclined to slide to the front or back of the loop, whichever you prefer.
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

#7) carabiner beer cozy

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Have the BD Aspect Harness, and it's all right, but would not rank 'Best' by any means.

1) 4 ice clipper loops (fit the Petzl clippers great), but the front two are way too far forward. Don't really feel like having screws hanging over the front of my thighs.
2) Legs loops are nicely adjustable.
3) Seems like the seat should drop nicely.
4) No double buckles.

The waist and harness buckles are really hard to operate with gloves on. Annoying on an 'alpine' harness. It fits nicely, and isn't too heavy, but yeah, not the 'Best'.

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

+1 wfscot
+1 Gavin W

Ice Cragging is what I do to get ready for Alpine Ice in May and June. The only ice in Idaho at that time is at 9,000-12,000 feet. It's my favorite kind of climbing.
Great point weight, lack of padding, and packability. I'm going to edit my original post.
I dig the AR395A, sexy looking too.
Keep the features list growing.

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

the BD aspect has everything I could ever ask for, good gear loops, 4 ice clipper slots, haul loop, adjustable legs and speed buckle. I find it to be pretty packable. Its no dead bird, but I have a BD couloir that I use for ultralight missions.

Edit: I personally don't mind the ice clipper placements.

Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

If you get a chance to try on the AR395A I would definitely give it a go. It doesn't have any padding to speak of, but the "Warp Strength Technology" or whatever the heck they call it, which spreads out the strands of the webbing, is really comfortable since it disperses weight so well (I had a chance to hang in one, and it was more comfortable than my BD Momentum). They've also updated it from the previous models (including I believe the M270) which were susceptible to the webbing collapsing on itself (between the spread out strands) and creating pinch points.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

I've switched from the aspect to the AR395.
Aspect:
-I found the aspect gear loops too small
+Nice and practicle 5th loop, easy to clip.
-Bulkier to pack.
+comfy

Arc'teryx:
+Lighter
+Big gearloops (good for double summer rack).
-harder to clip fifth loop.
+more compact.
+Removable gear loops.

Scrap the Black Diamond clippers and get the Petzl ones, they don't rotate and I've seen less of them break.

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270

Camp Blitz

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130
Luc wrote: Scrap the Black Diamond clippers and get the Petzl ones, they don't rotate and I've seen less of them break.
Ever seen anyone use the DMM Vault? Over kill on the locker, but I like the wire one. youtube.com/watch?v=RfGxvEJ…
Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

CAMP Blitz is okay, and I used one as my only harness for about 2 years. Mammut Zephir Altitude is much better. The separating buckle that doesn't have to be rethreaded kicks ass.

Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

Has anyone gotten their hands on or gotten laps in any of the Grivel harnesses. They seem to hit all of the OPs recs.

Sure look sexy and with huge gear loops and weigh less than the Arc'teryx and only 2 oz more than the BD couloir.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Dave Bn wrote:Has anyone gotten their hands on or gotten laps in any of the Grivel harnesses. They seem to hit all of the OPs recs. Sure look sexy and with huge gear loops and weigh less than the Arc'teryx and only 2 oz more than the BD couloir.
WTF? Is that a "cup" in front? I mean, I've taken a shot to the crotch from breaking ice before, but...
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
Gunkiemike wrote: I've switched from the aspect to the AR395... Scrap the Black Diamond clippers and get the Petzl ones, they don't rotate and I've seen less of them break.
Agreed on both. I have the AR395, and it is excellent. BD ice clippers are terrible.

Gunkiemike wrote: WTF? Is that a "cup" in front? I mean, I've taken a shot to the crotch from breaking ice before, but...
The cup is in the back. It's a detachable back brace for hanging belays.
Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181
kevinhansen wrote: Ever seen anyone use the DMM Vault? Over kill on the locker, but I like the wire one.
Haven't used it, but I agree, the wire one makes sense. Especially when you think about the fact that you have hundreds of dollars worth of screws, and the only thing keeping them in your possession is a $6 piece of plastic. I've never seen one break myself, but I've a few stories of lost ice racks that make me wary.
Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

So far that makes 4 votes for the Arcteryx 395a.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I have a Petzl Corax. It has 4 ice clipper slots, enough gear loops and it's comfortable. It is heavier than others but so am I. I don't think the Corax takes up too much space in my pack. I use a 35L most of the time and can fit what I need in there plus the harness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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