UTAH - 2015/16 Ice Season

The Scottish gulley forms thicker when we get a little warmer and then it cools again. It is almost entirely snow fed. This warm spell may help it out. If the bottom little curtain falls during the warm, the gulley may remain thick with ice. You can climb mixed rock up a bulge past a fixed pin (if its still there) to get to the ice if the curtain is gone. I've climbed it in many conditions all of which are super fun. The gulleys by the bumblebee wall are really fun as well.

tda

Is anyone interested in going out ice climbing on Saturday? I live in Salt Lake City and I'm willing to drive. W4 and have a small selection of screws, ropes, etc...

Heads up: Salt Lake County SAR will be training on scruffy band Sunday am from 0700-1200.
Sorry for doing it on a weekend but we have real jobs too. Kinda.

I haven't seen Billy's Icicle come in in about 20 years. Is it in this year, with all this moisture?

Maple is in fat right now.

Anyone know current GWI conditions?

Thinking about heading up there this Sunday February 7, I guess there's some game later in the day. Probably just go to top of pitch 2 though. Does anyone know if you can bail from there?

You guys should come!

And bring beer, brats or beef, and a bathing suit.

Yo guys, looking to get out sunday. I don't have any screws but i've got everything else plus lots of psyche! Willing to follow anything, i live in salt lake and can drive. Let me know if you want to get out!

madskates wrote:Yo guys, looking to get out sunday. I don't have any screws but i've got everything else plus lots of psyche! Willing to follow anything, i live in salt lake and can drive. Let me know if you want to get out!

Hey madskates, I am trying to to get some freee time on Sunday. I know I can get a half day here in Cedar the routes around here are fat!! But if I can get a longer day I will go to maple to meet you.

madskates wrote:Yo guys, looking to get out sunday. I don't have any screws but i've got everything else plus lots of psyche! Willing to follow anything, i live in salt lake and can drive. Let me know if you want to get out!

Follow the smell of grilling meat up the GWI tomorrow.

Superbowl L NST BWI BBQ on Sunday. BYO things. Grill is provided.

Superbowl L. That really seems underrated.

See ya there.

Does anyone think any slc ice will still be in around the 20th?

Michael Beasley wrote:Does anyone think any slc ice will still be in around the 20th?

I am sure there will be. Heading to Cody and Canmore for sure ice.

My partner left my anchor on the bolts at the ledge on the GWI yesterday. Locker, wire gate, and some cord. There's a beer in it for ya if someone grabbed it (or grabs it tomorrow during the festivities).

Anyone who is a fan of "The Scottish Gully" should go check out the MP page I recently made for it!

Although sussing out the GWI tomorrow may be the priority, other areas look worthy...

Frozen Assets is in through p9. Way more snow than usual in the canyon -- snowshoes would be useful although we beat out a path.

p10 would go, but not by me!

FA/FKA near Lake Blanche??? Interested in any information that would help Brett Verhoef, my wife, and myself in determining if this climb (just north of Lake Blanche) we completed today is a FA or FKA. It is very visible on the approach to the lake, but very hard to access the base of the ice. name, grade, or unclimbed? what say you?

The snowmelt ice in the Ogden area has formed up nicely a couple of times this year. On Wednesday 2/3, we headed up to check out a cool looking line and possibly pick one off.

The impressive line on the right was what we wanted to get a good view of, and in the process we climbed the mixed line on the left. The line on the right would be an awesome FA for someone strong enough and experienced enough. It is super exposed and the first 60ish feet are overhanging pillar ice leading into fun steps above.



On the line we climbed, we ended up encountering terrain that was more technical than expected and pretty poorly protected so we ended up having to bail due to time before reaching the bulk of the ice on the upper headwall (up and out of sight in all of these pictures). Fun day exploring!

ATTENTION--- Lost my old school Black Prophet tool in a fall on the final steep curtain of GWI yesterday! It fell from near the top and bounced down out of sight, not sure where it landed. But I would love to get it back! Its a mid-90s Black prophet with an adze. Would be grateful to whoever finds it and contacts me.

ALSO-- There's an ole school USSR Iribis ice screw (now bent) that caught my fall and was not able to be retrieved. As things warm and it's able to be removed, I'd love to be reunited with it. Its now my lucky ice screw and I'd like to keep in in a place of honor; I owe it one.

I climbed this gully in Echo last Friday, was wondering if anybody had any information on it. It is about half a mile east of the I80/I84 split, and before the UDOT Yard. There is a sign on the side of the road that says Steamboat Rocks, pretty sure it's not Steamboat Annie or the other line in Utah Ice, that canyon is down the road another 1/2 mile or so. It looked like there could be a bottom pitch in really, really good years, there was a little 2 foot icicle hanging from it. Climb up the side of the gully to get around it, then cut back over to the bottom of the gully and bushwhack up it.

First formation, 15' to 20' of rampy ice.

Second formation, about 30 yards up the gully from first one. 15' of not really worth it ice


Third formation, 75 yards up gully. Hardest line one the gully, 35' to 40', awesome pillar, gets thin and rampy towards the top. WI3


There is another formation to the left of that one, about 20' of ice, first 6' to 8' is vertical then rampy.

Fourth section is at the bottom of the picture for the fifth section, it is nothing special, about a 40' low angle smear on thin ice. WI2

Fifth section is the meat of it. About 120' of ice. Starts with about 40' to 50' of vertical curtain with steps, turning into 70' to 80' of ramp as the gully narrows down. Ramp section was again, very thin. WI3.


Looking down from the top



There is some really short, like 8' little things at top, climbed them, just to say that I did, but that's the climb. It was fun. Solo climbed it, didn't really pay attention to belay/rap stations, you walk off down another side canyon to the west, but there is a tree at the top of "pitch" 5 that could be used.

Any info on this would be great.