Outdoor gear labs new belay device review

outdoorgearlab.com/Belay-De…

;)

Ha ha, the MegaJul got a 1/10 for autoblocking. I've not tried doing that myself yet, but that's quite a negative vote.

Not too many surprises. I was initially confused by how they rates autoblocking...really weird that they used a "lower is better" scale when everything else is the opposite.

Maybe there's still hope for that Camp Matik I left at Rock and Snow Annex.

Too bad they didn't test the DMM Pivot. Was curious to see how it stacked up.

shoo wrote:Too bad they didn't test the DMM Pivot. Was curious to see how it stacked up.

I agree.

The death cam makes #1 while the Smart brings up the rear. I have $100.00+ belay devices, but find myself usually using the one that costs less than $50.00 - go figure.

They didn't test on wet or icy ropes. Iced up ropes will slip right through a Grigri...

Interesting reviews.

I am bit concerned with the fact that they show a photo of the MegaJul loaded up incorrectly in autoblock mode. They mention in the caption that is is not correct, but in my opinion it should be made more obvious to avoid misleading those new to the device and its failure modes. I have tried loading the device this way myself, a few feet off the ground, and it was very easy to produce a complete failure with the rope and carabiner flipping over.

I sent them a note.

shoo wrote:Too bad they didn't test the DMM Pivot. Was curious to see how it stacked up.

It´s marginally harder to feed for lead belaying than the ATC XP but really only marginally, a bit less braking force as well. Pulling through in guide mode is better or worse than the competition depending on the ropes and lowering in guide mode better than the Reverso, ATC XP Guide and MegaJul. I´d put it in second place as a multi-pitch device behind the Smarts if you want guide-plate facility and second place behind the ATC XP if you don´t.
I just carry an XP and use a HMS/Italian hitch if I want to belay off the anchor (which I rarely do).

shoo wrote:Too bad they didn't test the DMM Pivot. Was curious to see how it stacked up.

Agreed. I just bought one. I really like the design for lowering in guide mode. Everything else appears to be more or less similiar to a BD ATC-Guide.

The pin in the pivot is 174PH Stainless, tested to 16kN (per DMM).

Kirk Miller wrote:They didn't test on wet or icy ropes. Iced up ropes will slip right through a Grigri...

Literally the first line of text is "What is the best belay device for rock climbing?"

Do your ropes often ice up when rock climbing?

Their advice for beginners is quite the opposite the advice of the DAV.
I think the studies of the DAV are far more sophisticated...

Spent the night in a snowstorm on Washington's Column...
Had icy ropes on the Black Wall too.
Alpine rock climbs can get all kinda crazy.

Michael C wrote: Agreed. I just bought one. I really like the design for lowering in guide mode. Everything else appears to be more or less similiar to a BD ATC-Guide. The pin in the pivot is 174PH Stainless, tested to 16kN (per DMM).

The mega Jul in Auto-Block mode is only rated for 8kn. I had emailed edelrid asking about it.

I love my Megajul for belaying off the harness, but I wont use it in auto-block, or rap in lock mode either. Plus it works great for ice climbing.

Dredd wrote:Their advice for beginners is quite the opposite the advice of the DAV. I think the studies of the DAV are far more sophisticated...

The DAV numbahz they published in panorama also show munters having "lower" accident rates than all the other assisted braking devices except for the grigri

If you run the numberz with a 95% confidence interval ... Only the grigri had numbers had a statistical significant difference with the tuber

The sample size was ~1000 beer drinking german souls .... Perhaps they have new numbers they havent published?

;)

I am disappointed the Trango Cinch dident make the list. I have used all the belay devices tested on the review extensively except the Matik, as well as many others, and found that without a doubt the Trango Cinch pays out slack the easiest. The GriGri pays slack fine on thin ropes, but once you get into the 10mm+ range or you're dealing with heavily worn ropes, the GriGri sucks. The Cinch on the other hand will payout slack effortlessly even on worn 11mm ropes, something the GriGri cant do.

The downside is that the Cinch sucks to lower on thick ropes. So you're stuck with not being able to easily feed slack on thick, worn ropes with the GriGri, or problems lowering on thick, worn ropes on the Cinch...

The upside is that the Cinch 2 addresses this problem, it's just not out yet.

20 kN wrote:I am disappointed the Trango Cinch dident make the list. I have used all the belay devices tested on the review extensively except the Matik, as well as many others, and found that without a doubt the Trango Cinch pays out slack the easiest. The GriGri pays slack fine on thin ropes, but once you get into the 10mm+ range or you're dealing with heavily worn ropes, the GriGri sucks. The Cinch on the other hand will payout slack effortlessly even on worn 11mm ropes, something the GriGri cant do. The downside is that the Cinch sucks to lower on thick ropes. So you're stuck with not being able to easily feed slack on thick, worn ropes with the GriGri, or problems lowering on thick, worn ropes on the Cinch... The upside is that the Cinch 2 addresses this problem, it's just not out yet.

The Cinch is there, it's on the second page of devices. #7

Jfriday1 wrote: The mega Jul in Auto-Block mode is only rated for 8kn. I had emailed edelrid asking about it. I love my Megajul for belaying off the harness, but I wont use it in auto-block, or rap in lock mode either. Plus it works great for ice climbing.

I am very surprised that it is only rated to 8kN. That's half of what I would expect. Can you please share they email they sent you? I'd like to read it.

bearbreeder wrote:http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Belay-Device-Reviews ;)

Was super unimpressed with their old one. Didn't have even Half of the Main manufacturers belay devices.

I bet this one is no different.

Edit: Nope, again, very little coverage of different types of devices.

I think the problem is these guys say they buy their own gear to test and don't have the finances to actually buy and test that many.

Nick Sweeney wrote: Literally the first line of text is "What is the best belay device for rock climbing?" Do your ropes often ice up when rock climbing?

and the second sentence contains: '...took ten of the top products on the market up and down rock, ice, and snow...'
seems like a reasonable request to me...

tomW wrote: I am very surprised that it is only rated to 8kN. That's half of what I would expect. Can you please share they email they sent you? I'd like to read it.

Never saved it, I emailed them in Dec and got a response in about a week from them. you could also send an email:

edelrid.de/index.php?lang=1…