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Lander, WY Climbing Scene/Community

Original Post
Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Potentially might be moving to Lander for a new job within the next few months and was wondering what the local climbing scene is like. Have climbed in the area a bunch, love the style, and know I'd be psyched to pull on steep pockets and clip bolts for days on end. But, am really wondering: 1) How many climbers call Lander home? 2) Are they tight, dysfunctional, somewhere in the middle? 3) What's the local gym like in the depths of winter 4) How's the housing market? (will probably buy) Any beta would be appreciated!

Eric Carlos · · Soddy Daisy, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 121

Unlike Durango, housing is actually affordable.

Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Eric - that's great to hear 'cause Durango is quite the expensive place to live. Was hoping to hear that it is relatively more affordable. Thanks.

Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

I've been through Lander a few times and really enjoy the local climbing scene. Lots of developers, lots of weekend warriors, tons of friendly folks that are excited about getting after it. Not uncommon to run into the developers and FA'ists while strolling about. To answer your first question...a lot. You also get a ton of visitors rolling through (I am guilty of being part of the foreign invasion) and the crags with short approaches get crowded. That said, there is always something further and I've never had a problem avoiding crowds if I want to. New areas are opening up fairly regularly, once you get in with the local crowd you'll start to hear about them. To answer your second question; it takes all types, but I have found the crowd to be super friendly and easy-going.

Haven't been to the local gym, but it exists and friends who have lived there like it. They also have days in the winter when it is warm enough to climb south-facing routes in Sinks Canyon.

Housing is relatively cheap and plentiful. Lots of beautiful homes with prices trending up as more and more people discover Lander.

Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks Ryan - Good info and much appreciated.

Matt.H Haron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 185

I like Lander, been here for almost two years. Now is the time to move here though. You probably can find cheap housing now, it goes up during the summer, and weve got sinks canyon. A lot like shelf road, but only 10-12 minutes from civilization. During the summer the winds are pretty awesome, a lot less trafficked than most places of its quality. The community is welcoming but still people hang out with their friends so it can be hard to make friends. If you move up here, let me know and I will give you a catch.

Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Mattharon,

Good to know. Have never been to the Winds and am certainly psyched to check the Winds out! I have heard great things about how close the rest of the rock is for after work, etc. and will certainly look you up if I move that way. Thanks!

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

I have lived in Lander for about ten years, started climbing here 20 years ago, so I have a pretty good feel for the community. There are more new climbers here now than at any time in the last ten years so it feels a bit different to me, crowded actually from my perspective. As a wild guess there are probably 50 folks who climb more than recreationally, probably 20 who regularly climb 5.13 or harder. The core community is a bit insular, but nice. I think people just have their set partners and climb with people they have always climbed with. There are no huge rivalries or rifts among the climbers and we enjoy pretty good relationships with the land managers, for now.

Housing is a very mixed bag. It is hard to find nice small homes, and the market is overpriced compared with other communities in Wyoming at least. Rentals are also hard to find. Obviously I may not be the right person to ask about this as I have owned a home here for ten years.

The gym is okay. It is just a bouldering gym in a relatively small space. The problems are good but don't get changed often enough (like everywhere else on the planet). The nicest thing about winter, though, is that Sinks is very climbable. I have been out 7 times this month and six of those days were great. I am going in a few hours actually.

Jobs are a cruxy thing here. It is easy to find temporary employment if you are planning on being here for short periods, but long term career type things are more difficult and you have to get creative if you really want to be here long term.

Bottom line is that the climbing is good, folks are psyched, but it is a pretty small place without a lot of amenities that some people want or need. Hope that helps.

Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks Tom - a lot of what you've said is sorta what I've expected to hear. Good jobs here in Durango are also very hard to find (albeit a bit easier than there I'd guess). Very cool that Sinks is that climbable in the winter too! I think that I'll have the job thing figured out, so that's a plus. I know that the higher rock is too cold now but are there any other sport climbing zones that are after-work-able??

DB Cee · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2007 · Points: 146
Todd W. B. wrote:Thanks Tom - a lot of what you've said is sorta what I've expected to hear. Good jobs here in Durango are also very hard to find (albeit a bit easier than there I'd guess). Very cool that Sinks is that climbable in the winter too! I think that I'll have the job thing figured out, so that's a plus. I know that the higher rock is too cold now but are there any other sport climbing zones that are after-work-able??
In the winter? No...Sinks is the only cliff you can get to because of the road situation. But in the other seasons, absolutely. You can get to the Iris after work for sure...IMO the best conditions at Wild Iris occur from 4pm - dark. Fossil HIll is also a great after work crag...it sits at the top of Sinks at about 8000 ft so it's quite a bit cooler than Sinks in the summer time and gets afternoon/evening shade. Both zones you can get to within 30 mins of leaving work.
Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks Blake! Good to know

bob branscomb · · Lander, WY · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,198

Kristi and I came here in 1990 and stayed, so we've been here a while. It's always been a pretty open and relaxed scene here. There is a lot of new route activity going on in the Sinks these days...several new and young arrivals are going after it so that is always really cool.

There aren't many long timers around because it's tough to find a job and the winters are long and there really isn't much to do outside of climb and hang out at the Lander Bar. It's great for misanthropes like me.

Most people have steady partners they hang with but everyone is pretty friendly and there is such a through-put of temporaries that it shouldn't be a problem to find partners.

The job thing is pretty tight unless you're in the medical field. House prices are pegged ridiculously high. Really look into how old they are and when they were renovated. A surprising number of them, esp on the north side of town, are just old log walls with a little insulation and wall board slapped over it. The heating bills will kill you.

The upsides are the climbing...the inversions in the winter make for climbing in shorts at times in January in the Sinks and in the summer, there are a lot of less travelled places everywhere around. Also, probably one of the most liberal communities outside of Jackson.

So, it's still pretty cool place here, not many huge egos flouting their abilities. And it's always special when you get up in the morning and can't see the State School for the snow and the radio tells you not to leave town unless you absolutely have to.

Todd W. B. · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Thanks Bob! A few more questions for you locals - how long a drive is it to get to the Winds and is there a good MTB trail system nearby? Any good road rides?

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Todd W. B. wrote:Thanks Bob! A few more questions for you locals - how long a drive is it to get to the Winds and is there a good MTB trail system nearby? Any good road rides?
The WInds are amazing! It's 1.5-2 hours (depending on road conditions and how fast you drive) from Lander to Big Sandy for access to the Cirque and Deep Lake. The last part is slow going.
DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

Don't be fooled, the myth about the Winds have good climbing is just that - a myth.

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

The majority of Winds climbing that is developed and on people's radar is accessed through the east side of the range, Big Sandy being the major trailhead for Deep Lake and the Cirque. It is about 2 hours drive, half of that time on dirt roads. The west side trailheads have great hiking, but fewer climbs are accessed that way. They are shorter to access, like 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on where you are going. There is a lot of rock with some established routes and potential for a lot more, if you are into that sort of thing.

The mountain biking opportunities in Lander are getting better all the time. There are several trails in Sinks and some pretty good riding on the sandstone escarpments in the foothills of the Winds. It's not Fruita, however. Road biking is pretty good around here as well. There is a good out and back up Sinks and a decent loop just out of town around Squaw and Baldwin Creek roads. There are quite a few bikers in town and two bike shops. I don't really bike anymore, so probably someone else would have a much more informed opinion on the subject.

Sinks has been great this month. Probably going to be in a t shirt today.

DB Cee · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined May 2007 · Points: 146
Tom Rangitsch wrote:The majority of Winds climbing that is developed and on people's radar is accessed through the east side of the range, Big Sandy being the major trailhead for Deep Lake and the Cirque. It is about 2 hours drive, half of that time on dirt roads. The west side trailheads have great hiking, but fewer climbs are accessed that way. They are shorter to access, like 45 minutes to 1.5 hours, depending on where you are going. There is a lot of rock with some established routes and potential for a lot more, if you are into that sort of thing. The mountain biking opportunities in Lander are getting better all the time. There are several trails in Sinks and some pretty good riding on the sandstone escarpments in the foothills of the Winds. It's not Fruita, however. Road biking is pretty good around here as well. There is a good out and back up Sinks and a decent loop just out of town around Squaw and Baldwin Creek roads. There are quite a few bikers in town and two bike shops. I don't really bike anymore, so probably someone else would have a much more informed opinion on the subject. Sinks has been great this month. Probably going to be in a t shirt today.
Belaying in t-shirts yesterday and climbing without shirts on...hiding in pockets of shade between tries.

January?!?!?!? Crazy.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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