What to do about missing hangers

I was climbing in El Potrero Chico earlier this month and saw several bolt studs with missing hangers. Of the approximate 400 bolts I clipped, 4 of them were missing hangers (1%). Some of these I ran it out past, but one time I decided to bail because the run out would be too far over harder terrain.

If I encounter a similar situation again what do people recommend? Should I carry some stainless hangers and nuts to leave on the wall? Should I just use a small wired stopper cinched around the bolt stud? If the hanger is missing should I assume that someone removed it because the bolt was suspect and not to trust it? Is this location specific? Something else?

What causes some hangers to be missing (especially just one or two high up on a multi pitch route)?

Thanks!
-Matt

Matt Skorina wrote: Should I carry some stainless hangers and nuts to leave on the wall? Should I just use a small wired stopper cinched around the bolt stud? Thanks! -Matt

Yes and yes.

I would also speak to the locals and find out why the hangers are missing. People dont climb five pitches up and decide to randomly jack a hanger in the middle of the route. If it was the first bolt, that is explainable, people (non climbers) jack the first bolt on routes in EPC all the time.

+1 to both comments above.

Keyhole hangers... not rated like standard bolt hangers... better than nothing

mosesclimbing.com/?page_id=13

Matt Skorina wrote: What causes some hangers to be missing (especially just one or two high up on a multi pitch route)? Thanks! -Matt

My guess is that the missing hangers are from bolts that get pulled to the side when the rope is weighted. When this happens it can cause the hanger to rotate and loosen the nut on the bolt. Eventually if no one tightens the nut down it will just end up coming completely unscrewed and falling off. If the climbers on the route don't notice or have a replacement nut with them (as something like 99.9999% wouldn't), the hanger will obviously either just fall of or be removed. It might be a good idea to keep a nut, washer, and hanger with you for these situations since you're obviously coming across a fairly substantial number of missing hangers.

Any good sources for spare bolt nuts? I've always seen them sold with the bolt but haven't seen the nuts sold separately.

Uhhh................any hardware store.

thomas ellis wrote:Uhhh................any hardware store.

Though be careful not to mix metals if you are going to leave the nuts.

Andrew Gram wrote: Though be careful not to mix metals if you are going to leave the nuts.

And keep in mind the bulk nuts sold at a hardware store are only grade 2, which is not sufficient. You should get at least grade 5 or if stainless, then A2-70 or better. Grade 5 is indicated by three marks as shown below.



However, grade 5 is a US thing, and I have no idea what Mexico uses.