Another BD Stinger front point broke on me

Brian in SLC wrote: Don't the Petzl Lynx monopoints use a single screw?

Yeah but there is a keyway that also holds in the back. The design looks like you could still limp out and it won't fall away completely.

Ron Birk wrote: The screw broke at the same place as you can see in this pic. It was on top roping (luckily) on fat ice then too.

Can you check if, when you insert the front point it transmits the force through the forked back into the frame of the crampon. That the screw merely squeezes the sides, stabilizing the point and is not receiving forces from a kick.

BD told me it was from the screw being loose and getting shock loaded.

It's a tiny screw.

alpinejason wrote: Yup. Thanks. I kept reading "front point broke" neglecting the preceeding words. Maybe I'm remembering incorrectly but I don't think there is rigid spacer. I think it's just plastic, part of the antibot, between the crampon frame. I don't think you can "overtighten" them; it will just continue to squash the plastic and flex the frame of the crampon.

You are remembering incorrectly. There is a spacer. You can even see one of them if you look closely at Ron Birk's original post picture.

Replace the bolt at the beginning of every ice season and you will never have to worry about this.......

nateclimb wrote:Replace the bolt at the beginning of every ice season and you will never have to worry about this.......

Crappy way to make a product, and crappy way to think a product should be made.

shoo wrote: You are remembering incorrectly. There is a spacer. You can even see one of them if you look closely at Ron Birk's original post picture.

Correct. I took mine apart yesterday out of curiosity. There are spacers that can be removed but are housed inside the antibot.

To answer another question about whether the bolt transmits any forces... any force straight on would likely get transmitted back to the frame (where the front point is notched) but any vertical force would stress the bolt. With a tight bolt you benefit from the clamping action in addition to the bolt strength but a loose bolt = broken bolt.

I also found it interesting that my bolt was fully threaded (threads not excluded condition), quite a reduction of strength.

Check your crampons regularly.

deez SHCS:
holo-krome.com/index.html

Nice.

NorCalNomad wrote: Crappy way to make a product, and crappy way to think a product should be made.

I guess you never change the oil in your car either..........

nate, do even climb ice?

Crazy thing when i ordered my new front points they did Not come with new tiny bolt. they have a known situation and yet don't care enough to give folks the opertunity to replace the weak link in the system when they replace the point.

It's only a problem if the bolt is loose. BD isn't responsible for your neglect.

I had a bolt break while on lead last year in my Cyborgs set up as mono. When I took the bolt out of my other crampon it was worn about 1/4 of the way through. I'm a bigger guy (210-215lbs) and it was my third season in them. When I called BD they sent me a bolt kit for free.

I wondered if the bolt should be taking the brunt of the force or the rear end of the frontpoint where the groove fits over the horizontal piece? I was shocked to see the bolt so worn.

I'll be replacing them ever two years from now on!

If you climb serious ice it is probbly a good idea to replace the crampons completly after a max of two seasons and replace tools after every 3rd season. Moderate ice it is probable that you can manage to get a screw in if something breaks. that may not be possible on a grade 5 or mid crux on a 4+

Nick Goldsmith wrote:If you climb serious ice it is probbly a good idea to replace the crampons completly after a max of two seasons and replace tools after every 3rd season. Moderate ice it is probable that you can manage to get a screw in if something breaks. that may not be possible on a grade 5 or mid crux on a 4+

Hi Nick,
Yes, I do climb ice, last night makes 36 days this season. I just get bummed/frustrated when people seem to forget our sports are inherently dangerous and gear doesn't last as long as it used to. I check all my gear at the beginning of every ice season and before any big trip.

nateclimb wrote: I guess you never change the oil in your car either..........

Your analogy sucks

That's like saying I need to change the bolts that hold on my transmission regularly.

NorCalNomad wrote: Your analogy sucks That's like saying I need to change the bolts that hold on my transmission regularly.

If your transmission bolts came loose with regularity and your life depended on them being snug...maybe you would.

Crampons take a beating. I think they require routine inspection after every long session, and, routine maintenance and/or replacement after a season or two of moderate to heavy use.

Most of us get distracted and/or cheap and don't do that.

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

I'm not a small person. I wear fairly flexible boots (La Sport single leathers, like most folks I suspect). Back in the days of full on stiff plastic boots and footfangs, yeah, no issues ever. Burly boots, burly crampons.

The current generation of gear is lighter and functions better at technical climbing (flat frames v thick cookie cutters, mono points that are easily replaceable, stainless, etc). Diminishing return for sure. That heavy old gear is still going strong. This newer lightweight stuff just isn't as durable. And, that's ok. I knowingly trade some performance over weight and clunkyness.

Makes me think I need the occasional reminder to inspect my ice gear more often for wear and tear. Make sure they get put away clean and dry. Make sure the bolts are still tight. Inspect to make sure I don't see any fatigue and/or damage issues.

Take care.

I do inspect my ice gear every time out. the poon that broke was just starting it's second season. I have heard of the spacer bars breaking on the BD crampons causeing them to just fall apart. that might be a good idea to make that piece out of something stronger than SS?

Brian in SLC wrote: Crampons take a beating. I think they require routine inspection after every long session, and, routine maintenance and/or replacement after a season or two of moderate to heavy use.

Yeah so do ski bindings but they certainly don't fall apart after 1 or 2 seasons of average use.