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NEW GUIDEBOOK! SQUEEZING THE LEMMON III - Weekly to daily cliff suggestions for the changing seasons!

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Temps are in the low 70's so it is perfect weather all the way up to Windy Point today and the next week. Might need to stay in the sun unless you need cold temps to send a project at the Beaver Wall.

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

Ill be ordering this guide today, thanks a bunch Eric. Sounds like temps are pretty good right now. Where is the best/most convenient car camping? Stoked to check the place out.

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Alex Bury wrote:Ill be ordering this guide today, thanks a bunch Eric. Sounds like temps are pretty good right now. Where is the best/most convenient car camping? Stoked to check the place out.
there are lots of campsites all the way up mount lemmon but admittedly i've never camped there since i live right here in the city. i'm pretty sure any of those should be fine.

can anyone else comment?
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

Depends on the time of year and your preferences. I like the sites at Bear Wallow, the free parking area for Munchkinland, the pulloff for the Reef of Rock, or near the parking area for the summit crags.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

This time of year I would hit Molino Basin or Gordon Hirabayashi campgrounds. If you want to save $ it is tough to find a spot low enough on the Mountain that is warm. Later in the year there are a number of FS roads open that allow you to get off the main highway.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Hey Alex, I hope the info helps.

Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

Thanks for the help Eric! Jon and Geir also. Place looks awesome, cant wait.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

The heat is on and Jasper has already been to Raycreation. I would save that crag for warmer days myself and make the most of Windy Point, Weathertop, Pinhead, Hearthstone, Chessmen, Andy Cooke or the uphill side of Green Slabs! Have fun out there and find some shade.

jaspur Chafer · · tucson, az · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Lol. I'm thinking red diamond. Wheeler wall. Munchkin land. New York deli. Prison camp. This week only. Get it while it's hot!!!

jaspur Chafer · · tucson, az · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Red diamond was awesome today. Approach not so awesome. Waist deep snow on the way out but perfect temps. Too hot till the sun came around. Tshirts all day. Put on my jacket for 1 belay

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Weather is going off the rails with average temps 10 degrees above normal. This means you can go higher on the mountain and still be warm. Bailey Wall, Ridgeline, Wheeler Wall, Skilsaw Crag, Pharoah/Ripple Wall, Goosehead, Cozzetti Crags, Willow Canyon Crags. Check them out in the book and go somewhere new today!

Joe Kreidel · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,495

There are two 12's at Continuum Crag that (as far as I know) are waiting for their CSA. One of them is really good! The weather should be good up there, the trail might be hard to follow in the snow, though....

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

People were having trouble getting to middle earth last weekend Joe but hey mightas well get that trail beat in early. Looking forward to going to both those walls this year.

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

Andy sent one of those 12s at Continuum last summer, in blistering early August heat to boot..

I'd climb anywhere high up in the sun right now, like the crags EFR is recommending. In the shade, not so much..

Was puffies all around belaying in the shade at Windy Point (6,000 ft?) last weekend and somewhat numb fingers working out beta. Not bad though. I personally probably wouldn't be too happy in the shade too much further up.

This last Tuesday was nuts: 20 degs above average historical highs and 5 degs above record highs

intellicast.com/Local/Histo…

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

I was on Sheepshead in the Stronghold yesterday on Ewephoria and it was perfect but I was done by noon. When I reached the sun I was glad I had finished the slabs. Too hot in the sun with these record temperatures. Get an early start.

On Mt. Lemmon I would look for shade as well. Hearthstone is a great spot but you will need some trad gear. You can climb there most of the day before the sun arrives.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Pinhead would be a good bet with this wind and cooler temps.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Facebook just reminded me that I was at Weathertop a year ago. Good time to go there. It is similar to Chessmen with fewer hard climbs and some really long routes as well as a few nicely protected trad routes. After 2 incredible Huck is in the shade as is Guiness Stout and Under the Weather. I would try to get there early so you get your moneys worth after a 35-45 minute approach.

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Yesterday I went to the Rupley Towers which would have been pretty warm if you climbed on the main faces. We did Border Patrol 5.10 which was great as there was a nice breeze and the start is in a shady chimney. This route used to take one or two pieces of gear. There are now bolts at the start and is a great one to do after Recovery Room 5.10. We then added a fun new short 5.9, Sportin' Wood in the Big Pine Tower corridor. It is short and on the right side. The FA was done by Jefe Bret Harte. Those three moderates are a great way to warm up for harder climbs in the area or on Punch and Judy Towers.

Abby S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 132

Eric, looking for a personalized recommendation for the changing season. Where should I go next weekend? Hint: something moderate. :)

1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Hey Abby, Ridgeline is a great choice this time of year. Lots of moderates and should get a breeze. Bailey Wall is also a good idea.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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