Mountain Project Logo

Database of fixed/stuck link cams in Red Rock

Original Post
JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

How many have we seen, how many can we find? This is a bit of an experiment. I'll log these for a bit like bad bolts

So....Database phase one.
Dark Shadows - 2 fixed Purple's right next two each other on Pitch 2.
Birdland - Fixed Yellow midroute (can't remember Pitch)
Bolted 5.11 right of straight st. on Brass wall where I saw one in corner near it
There is a yellow one at the top of p3 on Olive Oil
P1 of the Rainbow Wall.
There is a green one on Frogland at the roof traverse.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Why? What is the motivation behind the experiment?

There is a green one on Frogland at the roof traverse. It is super stuck.

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,712

For starters two off the top of my head...

Dark Shadows - 2 fixed Purple's right next two each other on Pitch 2.

Birdland - Fixed Yellow midroute (can't remember Pitch)

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Just out curiosity, why only link cams?

Geoff Georges · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 4,649

this is funny, these are certainly stuck in many places, hard to extract with so many parts. There is a fun bolted 5.11 right of straight st. on Brass wall where I saw one in corner near it. I have a friend that cleaned one with broken wires- he sent it to Omega to be rewired and they sent him a new one. I personally don't use them but will clean them out if I can, not been successful yet.

Chase D · · CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 195

I assume you want to gather information so you can attempt to recover them. Nice idea for an "experiment".

There is a yellow one at the top of p3 on Olive Oil, a bit off to the left. Good chance of getting it loose, I just didn't spend enough time on it.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,999

AHAHAHAH! There are so many it will break the Database. The yellow one on Birdland is in a horizontal just off the belay on P4. Don't forget the one on P1 of the Rainbow Wall.

drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

Not red rocks, but there's two #2 links about 6 feet apart from each other in the C1 crack after the robbins traverse on half dome. Even on sale, that's like $180 of cam lost in a body length.

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

I believe I cut the sling off the yellow one on Birdland, because it was so gross and tattered and I was sick of seeing people clip to it. I've been meaning to go up there with a hammer and chisel and knock that thing out, as well as bring some chain for the upper pitch anchors.

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
drewp wrote:Not red rocks, but there's two #2 links about 6 feet apart from each other in the C1 crack after the robbins traverse on half dome. Even on sale, that's like $180 of cam lost in a body length.
Not at current sale prices.

rei.com/product/737338/omeg…
sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
Chase D wrote:I assume you want to gather information so you can attempt to recover them. Nice idea for an "experiment". There is a yellow one at the top of p3 on Olive Oil, a bit off to the left. Good chance of getting it loose, I just didn't spend enough time on it.
I doubt it. I've never seen a stuck link cam that was recoverable.
JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Don't want to recover them, just curious how many are out there since they seem to love getting forged into cracks.

Phase two might be crowd sourcing some funding to hire a full time analyst to develop and maintain this database and track trends. See my link at dontwanttoworkbutwantmoney.…

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I was serious about the green one on Frog land

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388

Not sure if it is still there, but there was one (red?, yellow?) stuck on the first pitch of the OR on Rainbow Wall in 2012.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
eli poss wrote:Just out curiosity, why only link cams?
Because they're garbage.

Only smart application might be alpine fast/light guiding.
Chadley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

I don't know if anyone has answered this yet, but on Birdland the yellow linkcam is on pitch 5 in a horizontal placement. I also believe there's one,or two on the traverse pitch of frog land..

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Adam Burch wrote: Because they're garbage. Only smart application might be alpine fast/light guiding.
calling bearbreeder right now, you'll wish you had never said that man
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Chadley, did you read any of the previous comments? Lol

Andre H. · · Boulder · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

I would venture a guess that any competent party using proper double rope technique (or a pirate guide) would never get a link cam stuck. Clearly, Red Rock is overrun by an army of gumbies, which is why I climb there all the time. And claim to be local even though I live in St. George. LOL!

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Wow! Another Dilliams poke...

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
T Roper wrote: calling bearbreeder right now, you'll wish you had never said that man
Wall of Text time?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Database of fixed/stuck link cams in Red Rock"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started