Mega-Jul lowering problem

This weekend I had a problem with my Mega-Jul. I led a pitch, then rigged the Mega-Jul off the anchor to belay my partner, as described in the Edelrid instructions. Belaying was fine, but my partner was unable to finish the route, so I tried to lower her, before rappelling myself down. The rope locked so tight in the Mega-Jul, I was unable to lower her. I didn't have any tiny carabiners that would fit the release hole, so I tied some cord through it, and directed it through the anchor as a pulley. No matter how hard I yanked on that cord, it would not release until the device was no longer weighted. Fortunately my partner was able to swing back onto the wall and downclimb.

Has anyone encountered this problem? I like the Mega-Jul a lot for belaying and rappelling, but this was the first time I ever tried using it to lower from above.

Were you trying to lower in guide mode?

Dont lower in guide mode except in an emergency (belay escapes, etc)

To release an autoblock in guide mode with full body weight on it can be quite difficult with many devices, especially with just hand stength

Folks usually use a foot loop with redirect or something similar

However without a backup yr playing roooosian roulette with yr partners life

;)

I dont have any experience with the mega jul in lowering a climber but I had a problem with mine this past weekend. I was on rappel in "tuber mode" (because using a carabiner in lever mode on a previous rappel wasn't going too smoothly) and when I reached the belay station the device somehow locked up. Thankfully I was at the bolts, clipped in direct, and was able to work the rope enough to unlock it. I was using a very stiff 70m 9.8 mammut rope which I know is controbuting to the problem.

Basically, I haven't heard of any problems with lowering climbers specifically but I have heard (and experienced) the mega jul locking up pretty damn hard.

I've experienced most of the Megas limitations and now leave it at home. After a season using it going back to an ATC was a godsend.

Yes, it was in guide mode. I didn't intend to lower; I thought we would both rappel down, until I realized she couldn't make it to the top. In this situation, I couldn't think of any alternative than to lower. In hindsight, I suppose I could have hoisted her up a few inches with a pulley, then tied a münter and lower from that.

Thanks for the tips. I will redirect the brake strand next time and back it up with a prussik. I didn't realize it required so much strength to release. I definitely want to test this out at home.

Elliott Balsley wrote:Yes, it was in guide mode. I didn't intend to lower; I thought we would both rappel down, until I realized she couldn't make it to the top. In this situation, I couldn't think of any alternative than to lower. In hindsight, I suppose I could have hoisted her up a few inches with a pulley, then tied a münter and lower from that. Thanks for the tips. I will redirect the brake strand next time and back it up with a prussik. I didn't realize it required so much strength to release. I definitely want to test this out at home.

Just remember that when you release the device in guide mode, there will be zero friction unless you take the proper precautions. When you release the locking feature in guide mode the brake position is up above the device for lowering, so make sure that you either bring the brake hand above the device and hold on tight prior to releasing it, or preferably use a munter backup above the device. I've also found that at least redirecting the brake strand through a carabiner above the device prior to lowering makes it much more manageable.