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Rope Soloing Ice Climbs

Original Post
Jim Clarke · · Summit Park, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 1,596

Maybe I'm becoming a bitter and anti-social old man who's tired of trying to wrangle mid-week partners and/or solo mellow lines. Not looking to toprope solo and I'm sure this has been debated here before but couldn't find a thread. I know, I know... "yer gonna die" etc. etc. Just wanted to get some thoughts:
1) Heard someone using a via ferrata rig leap frogging screws...kinda silly but for a quick hard section then back to soloing?
2) Using a Silent Partner or similar? (I know, not manufacturer recommended but, quick hit on an easy grade?

Blast away...

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I am terrible and don't listen to me.
Now, the leap frogging system seems odd to me, I have considered it for soloing on rock and in theory it would work well, but i only really see it being needed for wondering or traversing routes, the amount of setup needed would be quite a bit more than simply top rope soloing.
Now, i hate to be that guy BUT, why don't you want to top rope solo?
i know silent partners have been used for ice climbing but apparently they don't function to great when cold, OR it might have just been a manufacturing issue it was never made clear. I would say try putting your silent partner in a freezer and see if it works.
Sorry i cant be of more help i am only going off whats transferable from rock and what i have researched.

Justin S · · Plattsburgh, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

Straight out of the silent partner manual. I was pretty let down by that because it's nice to climb in the cold where I'm at because there is no groups that like to brave the cold around here that I've seen, and I do t have a local partner.

NO NO

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Justin. S wrote:Straight out of the silent partner manual. I was pretty let down by that because it's nice to climb in the cold where I'm at because there is no groups that like to brave the cold around here that I've seen, and I do t have a local partner.
It seems for the silent partner to fail to lock, water would actually have to get into the clutch and freeze the clutch (which is redundant internally). From what I remember, the clutch seemed like a fairly sealed unit, thus it seems like the chances of water getting in there and freezing the clutch solid is very unlikely. I am just speculating though.
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I assume you are taking leading not top roping.

If you take a look at the chapter on soloing on my website:

people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/hig…

you will find a method that uses a reverso/ATC guide and thin twins that has been used for ice. Whether it is a safe idea is another question.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
20 kN wrote: It seems for the silent partner to fail to lock, water would actually have to get into the clutch and freeze the clutch (which is redundant internally). From what I remember, the clutch seemed like a fairly sealed unit, thus it seems like the chances of water getting in there and freezing the clutch solid is very unlikely. I am just speculating though.
Well from the sounds of it all you really need to do is not climb a half frozen waterfall but i'm sure that's easier said than done.
will ar · · Vermont · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 290

I would recommend to either top rope solo or stick to soloing mellow routes without a rope. Rope soloing on lead is not a big deal while aid climbing, but is quite cumbersome while free climbing or ice climbing. In reality all the work associated with your rope soloing system is going to limit you to those "mellow lines" that you already solo. Top rope soloing may limit you on where you can climb, but it allows you to safely push your limits, work on your technique, and get a lot of mileage in.

Jim Clarke · · Summit Park, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 1,596

Thanks for the respectful replies. I know it's a strange notion I'm kickin' around but was just wondering if anyone has played around with some type of rigging...have done and will continue to use toprope soloing. I was kinda also looking for ideas on a quick system to safely pull through a steeper section while free soloing...though again, I know it's not as intended/manufacturer recommeded etc and "I'm gonna die"... but I've body weighted tethers/spinner leases on TR and a few times on lead, as well as thrown the rope over a pommel...just wondering if anyone had other "death wish" ice climber tricks...

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Shameless Shaemus wrote:Thanks for the respectful replies. I know it's a strange notion I'm kickin' around but was just wondering if anyone has played around with some type of rigging...have done and will continue to use toprope soloing. I was kinda also looking for ideas on a quick system to safely pull through a steeper section while free soloing...though again, I know it's not as intended/manufacturer recommeded etc and "I'm gonna die"... but I've body weighted tethers/spinner leases on TR and a few times on lead, as well as thrown the rope over a pommel...just wondering if anyone had other "death wish" ice climber tricks...
Soloist does not have the temp range limits of the silent partner. But it also won't catch you if you flip upside down.

Also as stated above, the added work rope soloing generally leaves me climbing easier routes...
Laramide Erogenous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 235

I have a SP but haven't taken it out on cold days per the manufacturers recommendation. I have done several laps on easy ice working out what works best for me and that is : Setting a bomber anchor at the bottom (can be problematic depending on conditions) but I like a V-thread and a screw or two and incorporate a screamer butterflied with a few feet of slack. I also put in an additional screw or pecker just to hold the anchor in an uphill orientation. Depending on the length of the route I will occasionally tie in the the end of the rope or tie a bfk in it. From there I clove hitch lockers (I like the Petzl attaché 3D because it's big enough to manipulate 1 handed with gloves on and reasonably light) at arm length distances on the rope running up from the anchor (I have 7 or 8 so that gets me a fair distance) and then stack the rope in a small backpack so it feeds out as I go up. I keep 2 clipped to my harness as a backup and take the beaners with me as I continue up past the cloves. When I move beyond my allotted pre clove hitched biners I start either adjusting the cloves clipped into my harness or place new ones (learn the one handed clove hitch). When you finish the pitch you have a few options. If long enough you can run the rope through the top anchor and rap the single strand but you are essentially rapping off your bottom anchor, better be bomber (I like to cover with snow if it's sunny) and clean the route on rap (nice to have an autoblock) provided the rap follows the route. The other option is to tie off the end of the rope and drop the slack down the route through the gear and clean on rap. The benefits of the first option when it works is that you can reach the bottom and pull the rope if there is a fixed anchor up top, otherwise you're top rope soloing to unfix your rope and clean the anchor, on longer routes you can either trail another rope on your tr solo or make two raps.

I think that about sums it up? I may have forgotten something small or missed a sequence as I'm sitting in a laundromat and there is a crazy old man that keeps wanting to talk to me about hammer prices, forgive me.

Further there are plenty of problematic issues in the system that I am well aware of, notably depending on the spacing of the cloves and screws you could be in for a pretty long fall and the inconvenience of having your back up loop dangling in front of you when you're trying to kick in. It certainly can be slow and time consuming but, for me in cases it adds a measure of safety over soloing, a fall would still be fugly but likely a little less fugly than a solo fall... Or you just die a longer slower more miserable death.

Topher Mira · · Nairobi, KE · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 15
Jim Clarke wrote: Thanks for the respectful replies. I know it's a strange notion I'm kickin' around but was just wondering if anyone has played around with some type of rigging...have done and will continue to use toprope soloing. I was kinda also looking for ideas on a quick system to safely pull through a steeper section while free soloing...though again, I know it's not as intended/manufacturer recommeded etc and "I'm gonna die"... but I've body weighted tethers/spinner leases on TR and a few times on lead, as well as thrown the rope over a pommel...just wondering if anyone had other "death wish" ice climber tricks...
Topher Mira · · Nairobi, KE · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 15

Hey Jim (et al) I know I am late out of the gate... but I have a cool system that I use. I am a tree climber by trade. When at work, I use the "SRT" (single rope technique) system of climbing rope. There is a local Ice crag near where I was staying for years, and I could never find a partner. I'd hike in and be at the top of the climbs. I began to drop in using the SRT system and have been using it for years. In fact, just two days ago I was there alone and cut 5 good sized trees that fell and were hanging over our climbs! Using the SRT! I just made a tutorial video on this system. Let me know if you have any questions.  Here check it out!

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

A grigri is good for lead soloing and toprope soloing, is simple, is effective regardless of fall orientation, and very easily allows rapelling/lowering off. 

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Hey Topher, nice video combining two climbing systems.  A minor correction, though, the VT friction hitch was first used in caving, although widely used by arborist now.

Jim Clarke · · Summit Park, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 1,596

I should have titled the thread Lead Rope Soloing Ice...have always followed the tried and true system for TR soloing (best detailed on Petzl's website)...for lead climbing, ground up placing screws I've begun using the Edelrid Eddy system Jay Healey describes on Supertopo...so long as rope is dry in backpack it works perfectly.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

I just don't understand lead rope soloing ice.  Why????  

Anything goes wrong in winter conditions and you WANT a partner to save your ass.  Soloing in winter (rope or no) is way different than summer.

The rigging and gloves/temps etc. seems like a real PITA.

As for via ferrata, I'd say you are better off using good purpose-designed ice climbing lanyards.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I've done this in the past and it sucked (I'm also an anti-social but not so old man, mainly with trouble finding ice partners) with the Soloist.  Not so bad for easy ice but on anything steep it's kind of a cluster with all the gear, wet rope, etc.  With a SP could be better.. 

Curt Haire · · leavenworth, wa · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1

in younger/stronger years, I depended on wrist leashes to use my tools as the belay.  as I've aged (now 66) I've started trailing a line, and carrying gear to create Abalakov thread if I weenie out and need to escape.

for lead- rope-soloing on rock, I use a system I call the "Penberthy Protocol", created by MSR founder Larry Penberthy back in the early '70s.  Penberthy Protocol is a rigging solution, using a chest-harness-mounted pulley, and a short prusik connecting the climber to the belay rope (I prefer tandem prusik taught by Rigging 4 Rescue over the single prusik option).  The rig must be calibrated, which description is more than I would try in a post, but I could email an illustrated explanation if you like.  I've been satisfied with it for 40+ years, & never been tempted to "upgrade" to any manufactured solution.

Red Label · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

For me it comes down to lack of partners, and routes that can't be toproped. At my ripe old age of 51, I try like hell just to top rope whenever possible. But some days I'm just itching to climb something that I can't toprope and can't find a partner to do it with. Granted, my hardest ice soloing was done free many years ago. It's quite freeing not to have to worry about any gear besides tools and crampons. Sure, I'll usually wear a harness and bring some screws,  lockers, slings, and cordalette... just to throw up a bomber resting spot if need be. Anyways... I can see both sides. I always prefer a toprope on ANY technical climb. Being the veteran of two lumbar and one cervical surgery... taking a whipper of any length isn't my idea of fun.

coldfinger wrote: I just don't understand lead rope soloing ice.  Why????  

Anything goes wrong in winter conditions and you WANT a partner to save your ass.  Soloing in winter (rope or no) is way different than summer.

The rigging and gloves/temps etc. seems like a real PITA.

As for via ferrata, I'd say you are better off using good purpose-designed ice climbing lanyards.
z t · · Spokane, WA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,112
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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