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Casual Route Comparison

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: indeed, that was unfair, I was commenting on the general yer-gonna-die tone, shouldn't have singled your post out, as it was reasonably put
I get it. Thanks. No worries.
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

This is my experience on the Casual. I've been up it twice, once in '00, and once in '01, both times in September. The first year we bivied at Chasm View, and hiking in with bivy gear and food sucked. We bailed after 5 pitches as we froze, chopped anchors out of verglass with nut tools, and were bombarded with falling ice. The next year we went car to car and had good conditions. We got back to the car at 11 pm and were totally knackered. I'm sure part of that was due to looking for an approach shoe that I kicked off of Broadway, missing a rap station, and going on two Cliff bars and an apple between us.

The climbing, route finding and protection were not difficult at all, and both days combined, we saw a TOTAL of four parties on the entire wall, with only one on the Casual (they bailed after the first pitch due to cold).

So here is my take...Unless things changed dramatically, crowds should not be a deciding issue, and the climbing will not shut you down. Other factors may.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:Well, essentially you've gotten to see the main hazard in climbing the Diamond. The #coloradouchebags. Especially humorous is the recomendations from folks who "haven't climbed the Diamond, but have climbed trad 1,000 ft lower and [I] think you're a dipshit for being psyched on this adventure I've never had". Practice good french freeing. No shame in pulling on a few pieces of gear to move fast in the mountains. (Hell, bring an adjustable daisy if you don't want to piss off any prickly folks behind you, and it might even help keep the fun in the TYPE ONE area no matter hard, cold and sinister you find the mythical "Rocky Mountain High, Elevation Sandbag".
hmm, not sure if you are directing this at me or not... but all this coming from someone suggesting to bring an adjustable daisy and french free? ummmmm, ok....
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
the schmuck wrote:Unless things changed dramatically, crowds should not be a deciding issue, and the climbing will not shut you down. Other factors may.
I think times have changed quite a bit and there are a lot more people up there. Also, how can you say that the climbing won't shut him down without knowing more about his climbing ability? ( Although I guess you could also say this about my comment). I was mostly trying to say that doing a route on the diamond is absolutely nothing like the routes he has mentioned.
Jon Dinsmore · · Kittredge, CO · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 5

CR is not 5.10 anymore. The bong that protected the chimney exit popped in a fall several years ago. That bong blocked a sweet hand jam and created the technical crux. Now there's a great jam with plenty of other protection options. Get on it and enjoy!

Jeremy K · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

My guess, you would have a better chance of success (and still have a great trip) on something like the petit. Focusing on the difficulty of a few moves kind of misses the point.

Crowds are definitely an issue on the casual, including weekdays.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195
Jeremy Kasmann wrote:My guess, you would have a better chance of success (and still have a great trip) on something like the petit. Focusing on the difficulty of a few moves kind of misses the point. Crowds are definitely an issue on that route, including weekdays.
hey guys. thanks for all the advice. i will say i was never intending to say if i climbed route A does that mean i can do the diamond. I was more asking how the pitches that are 7s, 8s and 9s on the diamond compare to the the pitches on the routes i mentioned. with that knowledge, i would be able to determine if i could be a contributing leader and take the easier pitches. i dont want to do the route if i cant lead the easier pitches.

we would be doing the climb with half ropes so it sounds like bailing wouldnt be a huge issue. weve done some alpine climbing together in the bugaboos on routes that summit in the 9k-10k range, although the routes we did were much easier than the diamond. Ive also spent a lot of time doing 14ers in CO, as well as Rainier and Denali so im not a complete noob in mountain weather and elevation. Also, my partner has done kieners route so he at least knows the area.

sounds like we should plan for something a little less ambitious. thanks again for all the info.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
Jake wander wrote: hey guys. thanks for all the advice. i will say i was never intending to say if i climbed route A does that mean i can do the diamond. I was more asking how the pitches that are 7s, 8s and 9s on the diamond compare to the the pitches on the routes i mentioned. with that knowledge, i would be able to determine if i could be a contributing leader and take the easier pitches. i dont want to do the route if i cant lead the easier pitches. we would be doing the climb with half ropes so it sounds like bailing wouldnt be a huge issue. weve done some alpine climbing together in the bugaboos on routes that summit in the 9k-10k range, although the routes we did were much easier than the diamond. Ive also spent a lot of time doing 14ers in CO, as well as Rainier and Denali so im not a complete noob in mountain weather and elevation. Also, my partner has done kieners route so he at least knows the area. sounds like we should plan for something a little less ambitious. thanks again for all the info.
Crescent Ridge on Pagoda Peak? Set up camp in Glacier Gorge and do Spearhead, Pagoda, and whatever else you have time for?
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

One thing I found about climbing Casual Route was that it was more exhausting than anything I had been on before like Sharkstooth, Zowie, Pagoda, etc. Even doing NW Buttress of Capitol wasn't as tiring. Climbing at 13.5 K was no joke.

Still, it sounds like you could pull it off. I'd do a late August mid-week trip. We bailed at pitch 5 due to lightning, but probably should have just finished up since the rain stopped after we got back to Broadway.

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

If you and your partner are both cardiovascular beasts, with very strong experience in the mountains (you'll be hopping boulders in the dark with no trail markers for about a quarter mile looking for the rap notch), strong route-finding ability, a good head for runouts and exposure, great rope skills, and aren't much affected by 14,000 feet of altitude, or climbing in the cold/shade, you'll be totally fine. The climbing itself is, as others have said, not all that big a deal. Not if you're really solid on all the other elements of a big alpine route.

But if any of those things above are issues, since you're *not* super solid at the grade, it'll be a shit show.

GO

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

sounds like you have the experience/fitness for a long day in the mountains but are a little shy of experience with climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.

But you have 6 months to get better at that. Plenty of time to get better, especially since you are already doing real deal 5.8 routes. So if you can scratch out the time to climb a bunch of trad 5.8 to 5.10, then you should be able to pull if off (weather dependent).

As for leading the easier pitches...they are not gimme's for the grade. The 5.8 dihedral is awesome, but i remember every move feeling like 5.8. And to besuccessful and safe on the route, you'll want to be cruising 5.8 and 5.9 pitches.

so train up and go for it

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

I have done all of those routes and if you want to see if you are ready do Walt Bailey, Bone Homme, Solar, and El Cracko in a day. If you do that the Casual will be, well, casual provided you have the lungs, don't get lost, beat everyone to the climb, and have great weather.

Many people get hosed by taking Fields Chimney instead of the North Chimney.

Dean Graham · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 10
Mike McNeil wrote:I have done all of those routes and if you want to see if you are ready do Walt Bailey, Bone Homme, Solar, and El Cracko in a day. If you do that the Casual will be, well, casual provided you have the lungs, don't get lost, beat everyone to the climb, and have great weather. Many people get hosed by taking Fields Chimney instead of the North Chimney.
Mike: I'm interested in your opinion on pitch#2 of Solar vs the upper dihedrals of the casual route. What's your opinion on the climbing difficulty? (aside from the obvious stuff like altitude, fitness, route finding etc). how do the cracks compare? I suspect solar and Walt Bailey might be more difficult but I really do not know.
lou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 60

Jake... dont do it.. its a lot more than your resume holds. Head over to Tuolumne and get on the Regular Route on Fairview... try your lead skills on the Direct northwest face of Lembert.. then hit the Diamond..

cheers... lou

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,555

Walt is definitely a little tougher than the second pitch of Solar. I actually think the first pitch of solar might be harder than the second. The last vertical pitch on the diamond is 10a and that felt about right. The other two are 5.9 and 5.9+. If I remember right the 10a on the casual is not super sustained but once you get to the crux you have to go for it. Doing three routes on the south face of the tower and hiking 10 miles with a pack might be a better equivalent.

Also you can bivy with a permit, but obviously you have to carry your kit up there which is more work, but it gives you time to check out the north chimney which is easy to get confused with fields chimney, rest before the climb, and enjoy the scenery.

It took a couple of failed attempts before I got up it but learned a lot. On the day we did it we were bivied at the lake and two parties passed us but both went into fields so we ended up on the routes first as we got in the correct chimney.

Nothing like taking your gear for a long walk to help you learn some things.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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