What is The Best Trad Climbing Harness

Last time this came up there was a pretty positive vibe for the Mammut Togir harnesses. Anyone got anything to say about those? They've got pretty interesting designed loops, reinforced belay loop and all kinds of fun things.

All my research pointed me to the black diaomnd chaos harness, so far it hasn't disappointed, lots of people really like having lots of gear loops here in the UK the DMM renegade pro is probably the most popular trad harness and from the looks of it misty mountain Cadillac is a very popular with the us crowd. I learnt to rack on 4 gear loops so i feel 7 is excessive, IMO 5 gear loops and a rated haul loop would be the best setup, will be looking at attaching another gear loop onto my chaos.

The one having the most fun

that guy named seb wrote:IMO 5 gear loops and a rated haul loop would be the best setup, will be looking at attaching another gear loop onto my chaos.

This thread would be even better if it had a poll at the beginning where people could vote on their favorite harness or add their own. It would be nice to see the quick "stats" right off the bat and then sift through the comments for specific likes/dislikes. Admins, is it possible to add poll functionality to the site?

Tim H. wrote: I'm thinking of doing the same thing to my Chaos. Love the harness, but wish it had that 5th rear loop. Does anyone have any exp. with a good way to attach a 5th loop that isn't super jimmy rigged?

Tim H. wrote: I'm thinking of doing the same thing to my Chaos. Love the harness, but wish it had that 5th rear loop. Does anyone have any exp. with a good way to attach a 5th loop that isn't super jimmy rigged?

A Misty Mountain Cadillac for this guy would be hilariously overkill. Like, actually laughable. Seriously, like 10 people think a starting trad climber needs a $120 big wall harness?

He is just getting into trad and still gym climbing, not taking on El Cap. I started trad with the old style $35 Mammut Ophir and it was plenty sufficient despite being a pretty mediocre harness. I've even bolted a few dozen routes in it for god's sake. You guys are nuts.

OP, if you're getting into trad get something comfortable with at least 4 gear loops. As long as you are comfortable and can carry the gear you need, you'll be happy. Weight shouldn't even matter much since you're already carrying way more than you are used to. The 200 grams a harness difference will make is nothing.

Happy climbing.

I've been using the Aspect for the past couple years:
Plus:
-Love the fifth loop.
-Screw carriers are between the gear loops (Kind of idiotic when they conflict like on the old Blizzard).
-Adjustable leg loops.
-Price, pretty cheap.
-Comfort.

Negatives:
-My big gripe is the small BD gear loops, I don't carry a gear sling unless I'm going into an offwidth/chimney.

So I'm back with dead bird and the AR-395A, comfy, fully adjustable, BIG gear loops, fifth gear loop, and ultra compact.

Misty Mountain Titan!!! Step up from Cadillac. If you like to rack a lot of gear on the harness itself. I have worn 1 1/2 racks with nuts, tricams, and ball nuts, and did not feel weighed-down at all! Love it! Super comfy.

opinions on aspect vs adjama?

leaning towards adjama because people complain about the leg loops on the aspect.
looking for something to take on walls and alpine.
also considering CAMP casino laser CR. don't know if anyone has experience with that one

Soulless Ginger wrote:opinions on aspect vs adjama? leaning towards adjama because people complain about the leg loops on the aspect. looking for something to take on walls and alpine. also considering CAMP casino laser CR. don't know if anyone has experience with that one

The Cassin Warden is a good, without being as bulky as other options like the Metollious safe tech,

Misty Mountain Cadillac. Durable, comfy, and six gear loops that organizes gear perfectly for long days out on routes with a wild variety of gear. Made in North Carolina by Americans. Hands down the best.

I agree fit is key. Perhaps I'm lucky but most harnesses fit ok on me. Maybe I just buy overbuilt, over padded harneses. But even my BD Bod harness in the right situation (winter climbing, ice and mountains) works just fine.

Anyway, based on the function, comfort and layout, I really like the Misty Mountain Cadillac in the standard (non quick adjust). It doesn't feel bulky and it's super comfortable at hanging belays. I originally wanted quick adjust but ended up with a standard adjust and all of a sudden the harness creep I'd been dealing with on my Petzl harnesses disappeared. It takes a little more effort to cinch them down but set and forget makes life a lot easier.

A few caveats. I'm in between sizes on it. A large seems to be just small enough, and thus, I'm weary a medium would be too small. THe other issue is the large with the belt being cinched all the way to the max puts the gear loops perfectly on my sides, while a medium puts them more posterior. I prefer the gear loops more forward than aft.

I did contact Misty about moving all the loops forward on a medium, but decided the large was probably the right size (barely).

That stuff aside, if you rack off your harness, the Cadillac is one of the best. 6 loops make putting a full rack on pretty easy. And unlike my petzl calidris, the harness stays put. No creep, no sag.

On most multipitch routes I carry a standard rack of a single set of cams from blue alien to #3 camalot size. 1.5 sets of nuts from BD micro up to WC rock 13. a set of tricams up to the largest blue'ish one (sometimes green and grey) and 15 trad draws. Plus a cordelette, a few small lockers, a few extra non lockers attached to 4 foot runners and a self rescue/prusik biner with some prusik cords, a knife and a rappel ring. All this racks with ease with plenty of room for more.

Definitely overkill for sport or even ice climbing, but definitely the best trad harness i've used.

I guess it's worth noting the a stand are rack is very different depending ing on location and this may influence your purchase. Triples or quads is other at all uncommon for me. Wide comes standard. So my choice of harness will be drastically different. So I have the arc fl 365 and a big gun from bd. I can free climb fine in the big gun but the arc is fantastic worth every penny.

Just ordered a Cadillac! Do I get a membership card? :p

Ted Pinson wrote:Just ordered a Cadillac! Do I get a membership card? :p

Lol might happen a few times depending on how the weather holds up. Super psyched for the 6 gear loops, though. I saw that you could even order a 7th?!

I picked up a Wild Country Summit harness a few months ago and love it for trad multipitch climbs. 7 gear loops, so plenty of room to rack, and its comfortable. really comfortable.