DRY TOOL TRAINING ETHICS?
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So up to this point, as far as ice climbing goes, all I've climbed is straight ice and steep snow. I want to get better at dry tooling so that I can start working on mixed routes at some point. One idea I had was in the off season aka summer, head up to some less traveled sport routes and work on it there. But I'm not quite sure of the ethics involved in this. Is it bad form to practice like this due to the possibility of damaging the rock, leaving scratch marks, etc.? Anywho, just thought I'd ask see as how I'm pretty new to the ice game. Thanks in advance for any helpful input. |
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It is almost always very bad form to dry-tool on established rock climbs, for precisely the reasons you listed. If you can, go to a dry-tooling crag, or set up a TR on some chossy shite and become a local dry-tool developer legend. |
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Definitely do NOT drytool on established rock routes. Luckily, you live in UT. There are undoubtedly several drytooling-specific crags relatively close to you. Hopefully someone with more local beta will chime in. |
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Jon H wrote:Definitely do NOT drytool on established rock routes.^ this x 100 |
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This is the systems wall I built at the house for training (both rock and ice) You can see there are a lot of home made tree branch holds (alders) on the upper 1/3 of the wall. Cut them couple feet long then run the branch length wise through a table saw to give you a flat surface that can mount against the wall. Screw them on for hooks, side pulls .... for your ice tools. It works well for training and will not piss all the climbers at your local sport crag off. You do not want to bring sharp objects to the rock climbing area although it is just fine to try and rock climb a dry tool route in the summer if one wishes. Have Fun
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Provo Canyon has easy mixed routes...try the Litter Box at the mouth of the canyon...Stairway to Heaven 1st pitch for mixed works anywhere you can set up a rope with screws or on the bolts/bushes...for a bit more challenging dry tooling the Fitness Den in between Bridal Veil Falls area and the Stairway...Rock Canyon has plenty of choss that is easily TR'd |
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Good to know on the do's and dont's! Thanks for all the input guys! And thanks for the route's to give a go Harry. Greatly appreciated! =) |