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DRY TOOL TRAINING ETHICS?

Original Post
Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

So up to this point, as far as ice climbing goes, all I've climbed is straight ice and steep snow. I want to get better at dry tooling so that I can start working on mixed routes at some point. One idea I had was in the off season aka summer, head up to some less traveled sport routes and work on it there. But I'm not quite sure of the ethics involved in this. Is it bad form to practice like this due to the possibility of damaging the rock, leaving scratch marks, etc.? Anywho, just thought I'd ask see as how I'm pretty new to the ice game. Thanks in advance for any helpful input.

Cheers,
Bonneville

Todd Anderson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160

It is almost always very bad form to dry-tool on established rock climbs, for precisely the reasons you listed. If you can, go to a dry-tooling crag, or set up a TR on some chossy shite and become a local dry-tool developer legend.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Definitely do NOT drytool on established rock routes. Luckily, you live in UT. There are undoubtedly several drytooling-specific crags relatively close to you. Hopefully someone with more local beta will chime in.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Jon H wrote:Definitely do NOT drytool on established rock routes.
^ this x 100
Nick Weicht · · Valdez, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 41,393
Mtn Ape XL · · Utah · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 131

Provo Canyon has easy mixed routes...try the Litter Box at the mouth of the canyon...Stairway to Heaven 1st pitch for mixed works anywhere you can set up a rope with screws or on the bolts/bushes...for a bit more challenging dry tooling the Fitness Den in between Bridal Veil Falls area and the Stairway...Rock Canyon has plenty of choss that is easily TR'd

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Good to know on the do's and dont's! Thanks for all the input guys! And thanks for the route's to give a go Harry. Greatly appreciated! =)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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