Finally made my way up and was able to climb ignorway.. I thought it was pretty spectacular and would like to know more information on other routes in the area and maybe climb with someone who knew..
When your standing in the parking lot, ignorway is on your left... Yosemite Sam's is straight in front of you.... there is a separate formation on your right, that looks like the Matterhorn at Disneyland.... we have started to call this "the smecklehorn" Head up from where you park, up a loose dirt hill, go into the trees and follow a faint trail up through the trees to the base. You will find a few good climbs here. Two lines of bolts(maybe some new ones about 20 yards left), the one on the left is the common start of two good 5.10s...clip the first 2 or 3 bolts, do the crux, and veer to the left-follow bolts-you go to the base of a roof with anchors.... I do not know if Jeff Constine has made this one top out. Veer to the right-again follow bolts- and go up a full rope...50M to a bolted anchor that you can't see from the road. (one can also scramble/climb up around to the right and get to this anchor) Four climbs start at this anchor, go hard left out over some spectacular big air, at 5.10C (?) Straight up two climbs are 5.9 and 5.10 and a new one is on the right (I haven't done that one) Jeff Lieberman, Rob Brown and I put up the 5.9.... Jeff Constiene added the other three. All of these are really hi-quality climbs and worth a day spent at that anchor. To get down.... one 60m will get you to the upper anchors. From there you can scramble down the scree on your left (skiers left) One 60 will not come close if rapping off of the anchors... I do not own a 70 so I will not claim it reaches. If your at the top, and you have two 60m and some long slings... you can make a 60m air rap straight down to where you started...its almost all air.
That climb was great. I felt a little nervous on the first few bolts but once you pull that roof section i thought the rest of the climb became very fluid.
I appreciate the beta. I plan on going up this weekend to check out those climbs. Hope to catch you there one of these days
Sean, I'll be up there Friday afternoon and again Saturday morning. I'll be driving a red Jeep Rubicon. I would be happy to tell you what I know and show you some of the newer routes. Most of the new stuff is away from the road so rockfall onto the road is not an issue and won't draw attention from authorities. Hope to see you up there.
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