Boot recommendation

I'm looking to get more into mountaineering and currently have Vasque Breezes as my boots. My feet did get cold post-holing, but were fine going through more packed snow. I have never used crampons and I don't intend on doing any vertical ice. So what kind of boots should I be looking for? I'm not so much looking for a specific boot as fit is going to be a big factor, but more looking for what features I should aim for. Should I go for step-in crampons or strap-on? Should I look for more insulation? It seems most "mountaineering" boots are insulated anyway. Most things I do will probably be during the summer months and I'm in CO, so mostly trips in CO. But I also don't want to limit myself to these and some trips may still need crampons, or at least be easier with crampons. A trip I'm looking to do in the near future (hopefully this summer) is following this route.

For summertime Colorado mountain scrambles, I use lightweight sticky rubber approach shoes unless I plan on climbing very steep snow or alpine ice. For that kind of thing, I use a pair of relatively light leather mountaineering boots that i've had for 20 years(La Sportiva Makalus I think). Strap on crampons are great for this kind of mountaineering.

I would definitely go with fully automatic or hybrid crampons. They're gonna be much faster/easier to put on, especially if you're wearing gloves. There are some general mountaineering boots out there with light insulation that will help keep you warm in moderate conditions. Anything waterproof/breathable will be a little warmer, too. I also wear Dexshell WPB socks over a liner sock with my lighter boots as they add a bit of a vapor barrier effect without getting quite as clammy as a plastic bag over my foot. I can highly recommend the Lowa Mountain Expert GTX for the kind of boot you're looking for. Lots of folks like the La Sportiva Trango as well. Of course, as you've noted, fit is gonna be the key with any boot. Hope this helps, good luck!

I've got some Scarpa Triolet boots that I use for late fall, winter, and spring conditions in the Cascades. Really it comes down to fit, I tried the Sportiva Trango and they did not work for my foot. I agree with the sentiment above about using mountaineering boots in summer, I avoid it if possible. Walking in mountaineering boots on anything but snow is not that fun IMO. Are there routes in CO that you need mountaineering boots for during the summer?

Maybe something like the salewa mountain trainers with strap on crampons would work for you?

I think my feet will stay warm enough without insulated boots, but the trip report I posted does say that crampons are pretty much required for the steep snow and that the route would likely be more difficult if there is no snow. So if I'm going to have to get new boots that will take crampons then I would rather get a pair that I could use in the winter if I want. I would like to eventually get into more wintery stuff, but realistically that will probably be a couple years. But thank you for the recommendations, I realize this isn't a subject that has a concrete answer so I'm trying to get several opinions. I can afford a new pair of boots, I just can't afford three new pairs (exaggerating).

Brady,

There's not one boot that does it all. For summer climbs that might require crampons, get a pair of regular ol' lightweight hikers and have a pair of lightweight strap-on crampons. If you go to a heavier mountain boot, you'll sacrifice hiking comfort.

I've had a pair of these crampons for years and they will fit almost any approach shoe or lightweight hiking boot you use:

outdoorgearlab.com/Crampon-…

Fair point Frank. Again, I haven't used crampons before. My understanding was that crampons don't work/fit very well on boots or shoes that are more flexible. My Breezes are fairly stiff, but I haven't seen anything from people using crampons with them. If they will take strap-on crampons then I'll skip the new boots for now until I have more experience with mountaineering and have a better idea of what kind or if I do need different boots.
So would most strap-on crampons work fine with my Breezes? I would prefer to go with steel crampons over aluminium just for the durability, but really aluminium ones would probably last plenty long enough for me.

Brady3 wrote: So would most strap-on crampons work fine with my Breezes? I would prefer to go with steel crampons over aluminium just for the durability, but really aluminium ones would probably last plenty long enough for me.

Yes, most strap-on crampons will work with your soft Vasque Breeze boots. Strap-on crampons are for firm snow, or even low-angle ice travel. Not for steep water ice.

The steel ones are more durable, won't need to be sharpened as often, but will weigh considerably more. Your choice.

Aluminum crampons are for routes with very short sections of steep snow that don't otherwise require crampons - I have a pair, but I almost never use them since i tend to just chop steps with a rock on those kind of routes. They are basically useless on ice and you have to be extremely careful to not venture onto rocks or dirt. They are very much a specialty/emergency item, and you are certainly better off with steel crampons for your first pair.

I looked at the trip report for the route you are interested, and that looks like very easy snow climbing and easy scrambling on loose choss. No question I would skip boots and go with sticky rubber approach shoes with strap on crampons for that route. That all looks easy enough that as long as you know how to use an ice ax you could probably just do it in a pair of kahtoola microspikes and skip the crampons entirely.

Strap on crampons are all you need for some hikes, and will work on any boot. Really old ones are rigid. You want newish ones that have the flexible bar in the middle. There are plenty on MP and eBay used that are inexpensive.

Since you live in CO, go to the store and try some on. Chalet was a cool store, and Neptune Mountaineering has a huge collection of museum rock gear. They can get you a slightly more rugged boot that will be better in snow. Stay light until you get in to ice.

Thanks for the responses. I will likely go with new crampons rather than used (<$200 isn't as big of a hit has $700 for boots and crampons). I have not used an ice axe before either, but I was planning on getting one before this trip. Ideally I will get both crampons and an axe during the winter months so that I can hopefully find an area closer to Denver that is not in avalanche country to sort of practice. I also don't want to be in the backcountry when I first use them.
A friend did point out (as well as someone else on here) that step-in crampons will fit better and more securely than strap-on, but again the $200 isn't as big of a deal that I would be ok with buying strap-on now and if I later get into more vertical stuff I can get another pair of crampons to fit the heavier boots.

You are in precisely the same situation I'm in. I'm retiring shortly and moving back to the WYCO region and I want to ease into winter mountaineering. For three seasons I have Five Ten Mid approach boots that I currently wear for everything including work. For those occasions where I unexpectedly need crampons I have an old pair of ten point Petzl crampons.

For the rest of it, I'm going to go with a light-mid weight leather boot, in particular the La Sportiva Makalu. With the right socks, liner socks, gaiters, and perhaps footbeds, they should be adequate for four seasons. A key feature of the Makalu is that it's automatic crampon compatible. I plan to use Petzl Sarkon automatic crampons.

All this assumes I can find everything in my size. For some odd reason manufacturers don't like to make gear in adult sizes. My foot is US 13 and sizing up a bit for thick socks/liners means I'm going to have a tough time finding boots. It wasn't like this in the 1970's-80's. There was a much more restricted selection available but at least I could find my size. Good luck and good climbing.

I went straight to La Sportiva Nepal Evo's when I transitioned from hiking to mountaineering. I definitely made the right choice. Even though they were overkill for my first season of moderate mountaineering trips, over the last couple years I've been able to expand my skills and tackle harder terrain, including winter, without having to buy new boots.

They are stiff and awkward at first but they really do break in well and in no time you'll not even notice them on the approach. They also climb rock very well.

So if I were back again buying my first pair, I would be the Nepal Evo all over again.

I would go for an uninsulated mountaineering boot that accepts semi-auto crampons. I have 3 pairs in the La Sportiva Trango series because they fit my feet well and come in the size I need. The Glacier, Karakorum, or Makalu may fit your feet better than the Trango since the last is different. I don't know much about other brands since I've stuck with the Trangos since they run narrower than most. I wore my La Sportiva Boulder X Mid when I did Capitol in light snow in October a few years ago and it was fine because I didn't need crampons.

My .02; I would avoid mountaineering boots for summer Colorado 14ers, mainly because all the 14ers I've been around, the crux has been approach, rather than any technical need for a rigid boot. I think looking into hiking boots rather than mountaineering boots would be the way to go, use a hinged aluminum crampon and you should be set. That said, if you get into winter mountaineering or thinking something with year round snow (Rainier, Shasta, etc), at that point, start thinking mountaineering boot. Or if vertical ice/snow or mixed starts featuring into your route plans

I ended up going with CAMP Stalker crampons and got a new pair of Vasque Breezes. I decided that should be suitable at least for awhile and if I end up getting into more winter stuff (which I currently don't have any partners that seem interested in that) then that will be at least a few years down the road so I'll have time to save up for heavier boots and automatic crampons.