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What is The Best Trad Climbing Harness

Original Post
Brendan Maguire · · Manassas, VA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

Im starting to get into trad climbing and I need a new harness. I will mostly be doing single pitch but also multi pitch and at the gym where I work as well. I just want to know what other people are using.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

You're going to get ten different answers. Almost any harness is fine, for your first one. I have the Misty Mountain Cadillac, but there are plenty of good harnesses out there,

mistymountain.com/recreatio…

Edit: Here is another comfy harness I have owned:

metoliusclimbing.com/safe-t…

CornCob · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 20

In my opinion for single pitch and gym climbing just about any harness with 4-6 gear loops will work.

That said, my preferred harness brand is Misty Mountain. The Cadillac, Intrepid, Sonic, or Titan are all great trad harnesses, some with more specific uses than others.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

after much investigating into a trad harness myself I settled on this...

edelrid.de/en/sports/harnes…

they also have the cyrus which is the fixed leg loop version of the orion.

its super comfortable which is what I was going for as I have some back problems. look around the net, it has great reviews everywhere.

it is a bit stiff to start and don't expect to pack this thing down much but the comfort makes up for it. my only complaint is it only has 4 loops and they are set back kind of far. great to keep stuff out of your way but kind of annoying if you keep a lot on your back loops. I kind of offset this by running some cord between the back to loops to create a fifth loop for my anchor gear.

that aside this is a great harness and I can spend all day in it no problem

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Get a black diamond

Ryan Teter · · Conifer · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 45

Another vote for Misty Mountain. I love the Cadillac! Burly, comfortable, six gear loops, and dual waist buckles so you can get everything centered. After trying several different harnesses, my girlfriend just got one as well.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Depends ENTIRELY on fit and YOUR personal needs for trad climbing.

My own favorite is BD Big Gun. it is heavy, but is the most comfortable for me for semi hanging belays, and has at on of gear loops/racking options.

Many love Misty Mountain, but they do not fit me well, very uncomfortable.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

It really is going to depend on how you like to rack your gear. I like to rack everything on my harness, I don't like shouldering slings on lead - so my biggest selling point is how well i can load the harness.

For this reason, I used to use a BD big gun harness. I loved it for trad climbing because of the rear gear loop. It's comfy, but heavy and bulky in your pack.

I've since switched to the BD aspect harness, which has a similar rear gear loop, but is decently compact (half the space of the big gun)

That rear loop is a great place to stash stuff you don't need till the belay - lockers, belay device, cordolette, etc. Keeps the front loops open for gear and slings.

simplyput . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

swami.

DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

I've really liked my DMM Renegade. Lots of gear loops but it's not as burly and cumbersome at the misty mountain or metolius harnesses. Also use it for ice.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

whatever FITS best and can CARRY the gear you would lead with ...

brand is pretty irrelevant, any recognized one will do

fit and the ability to hold gear is what matters ... and weight to a lesser extent if yr going light and fast

;)

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I like 4 big loops, 2 per side. a 5th in the rear for stuff other than pro has become mandatory. I like dead birds new harnesses.

I rack on sling sometimes like corners or wide. However I like having big gear loops for racking a set of doubles or so.

I like dead birds new hanress line. I have the fixed legs. I hate adjustable legs. Its More comfy for me than the big gun or yates shield at hanging belays. Comfy to whip in.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Fit and feel are personal and I don't think recommendations will be that helpful. For example, I read lots of good reviews of the Edelrid Cyrus, but when I got one, it felt stiff and uncomfortable just walking around, and I sent it right back. Nonetheless, plenty of folks like it.

Obviously, it helps if you can go to a shop and try out the harnesses by hanging in them. (If the shop doesn't have an anchor for this, find a shop that actually understands climbing...)

Carrying gear is a consideration, but nowadays, except for some specialized harnesses, every harness has four gear loops, and some are now adding a fifth in back. By and large, the carrying options are pretty uniform.

Some big-wall harnesses add extra loops. I think most of these harnesses are excessively big and bulky for even long free routes, but again each to his own.

Personally, I can't stand the "load-in-the-pants" feeling of all the gear on the harness, and anyway I grew up carrying gear on a sling. I still think that's more efficient for multipitch climbing, and you have to do it for the wyde, so I never cared that much about huge harness carrying capacity.

My personal bugaboo is buckles on the leg loops. I hate 'em. If you have issues like this, then you will typically have choices within brands, but in some cases, eg Metolius, there will be no choices.

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

A harness that is comfortable and has 4 gear loops. That's all you need.

Ernest W · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

Another vote for the Misty Mountain Cadillac.

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

BD chaos

Jonathan Cunha · · Bolinas, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 62

Or just go old school and tie in with some webbing wrapped around your legs and waist..However, I have a Misty Mountain Caddy as well

TKeagle · · Eagle, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 79

Another vote for MM cadillac- I have owned 3 of them and will never look at anything else.

Josh Kornish · · Whitefish, MT · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 800

I think the Arc'Teryx R300 is my favorite harness of all time. It packs great and I completely forget I'm wearing it when it's on. The gear loops are great and the updated version has an improved haul point.

I've never tried a Misty Mountain Cadillac but I've also never heard a single complaint or bad review.

JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Misty Mountain Harnesses are amazing. Handmade in the USA and when you are learning to rack gear, the extra loops are nice for organizing.

I've really felt that Black Diamond quality in soft goods has plummeted since they sold to the investment company several years ago. I returned the same pack twice for just wearing out in one year. Finally gave the third one away and got a Misty Mountain pack.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

misty cadillac. Comfy with lots of loops. Only harness I really wear anymore.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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