Guidebook for Rock Climbing in the Presidentials
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I was hoping for a suggestion for the "best" guidebook which covers the rock climbs in Huntington Ravine fairly well. I was hoping to visit the Presidentials with my dad but mix it up by throwing in some easier technical rock climbs, then returning sometime in the future after that to do the classics with a few of the regular bunch, maybe. Is there a good guidebook someone could point me to? |
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Jerry Handren's North Conway book and Ed Webster's old White Mountain book cover what you're looking for. |
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Some might disagree... But I say there really isn't much good rock climbing in the Presidentials. It's all quite chossy, broken up, and non epic. |
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"quite chossy"--well occasionally--yes. |
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Al- |
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Russ- the bouldering in King Ravine is pretty good,,,you might not even die. |
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john strand wrote:Are Stairs and Mt Webster considered the presi's ???Both are part of the presidential range, so yes. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presi… |
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Thanks for the geography Ron.. |
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All I am saying is, the Presidential Range is not known for its rock climbing. There's not much. Certainly it;s not even close to the amount of good rock in the Adirondacks. |
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Nolan Huther wrote:Fortunately, chossy and broken up almost works as a plus in my book. Crowded crags with classic routes harder than I can climb are plenty in NY! Thanks for the guidebook suggestion!Pinnacle Buttress is a long ass hike for a choss pile. Why not go to the Dacks? There are ton of backcountry climbs that's not crowded and beautiful settings. Wallface for example. |
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IMO the Dacks and the Presi's pale compared to Katahdin. More "out there" cool climbs and an impressive summit. |
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Well, if you must to Pinnacle Buttress. |
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Hey guys (i.e. responders) note in his last post Nolan mentioned he'd been " (rock) climbing for about a year". |
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Depends on the experience..my first lead was WG and Pinnacle the next spring. You gotta learn sometime and a lot of experience can be had in a year. |
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If you have trad lead climbing experience, you should be fine on the Pinnacle. If you feel like you're in over your head, there are many spots where you can escape climber's left into the schwack. It's not a great climb, a lot of easy 5th class and 4th class with a few pitches of moderate climbing, but if you are using it to spice up a few days in the Presidentials and don't mind lugging up the extra weight, I think it would be a good option. Make sure to do the fairytale traverse if you can find it, the climb is worth the effort just for this pitch. It's easier than it looks when you first peer around the corner. |
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Osgood Trail is a real killer on the way down, steep steep steep, hiking poles highly recommended. |
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Nolan Huther wrote:I do climb dacks actually. Mostly the 46ers, plus I've been rock climbing for the past year. I've been wanting to visit the Whites and climb a few 48ers for a while though, and this seemed like a great opportunity for a good weekend trip between college semesters this summer, likely a climb up Huntington Ravine and linking up some of the northern Presidentials before doubling back and camping at the base. I appreciate all the advice, I hope to visit Katahdin too this summer or next, despite the 14 hour drive. Thanks for the advice, all I really needed was a good guidebook to look up.When you say climbing the 48 and 46, do you mean hiking or technical rock climbing? Most of the 48 don't have much in regards to rock climbing. |
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john strand wrote:IMO the Dacks and the Presi's pale compared to Katahdin. More "out there" cool climbs and an impressive summit.For "out there" check this out, makes summertime ascents on Katadin seem pretty mild. mountainproject.com/v/panth… Not to say Huntington Ravine isn't worthwhile... it's pretty cool there too. Like ChrisN said, if you're in the neighborhood and looking for a hiking day with some fun climbing thrown in check it out. Also, to answer the original question get the Handren guide, although I think the Webster guide is more fun to read. |