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scary faLL.....crampon fell off !

Original Post
Mike C · · Co · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,046

Hi All, I climbed Coors light Friday morning and came within an inch of my life.

I fell from the very top while run out .......i had two screws in about 8 feel apart and too much rope out. while walking up the super low angle ice at the very top, my crampon popped off my left foot.
The next couple seconds came with the speed of lightning. Before i could barely scream i began sliding out of control back toward the edge i just topped out......
All i could do was scream in terror and with more prudency than i have ever summoned before.
So i went right over that edge thinking .."this is it". Very scary while flying upside down ,head first. I was wearing my helmet and about to impact from roughly a 40 footer when i put out my left arm to try to reflexively brace for the impact.(landed on it directly from 40+ feet)
While within the last few inches, the rope came tight and the fall was arrested inches off the icy deck!The fall was stopped by one old 16cm bd ice screw. My left arm was dislocated(dangler) at the elbow. THAT HURTS!At the time it felt shattered but to my surprise ,unfractured. I should have decked but my last minute scream got my belayers attention. HE saved my life .The scream alerted him and he stoped me with no room to spare. I am very grateful and wanted to take this topic and focus on the lesson.....i let my guard down on the easy top. I will be more careful to continue climbing to a safer stance.
I made a mistake and was not using my picks,so when my left crampon poped off ,so did I. Had i been using my axes, i may have arrested my self. I blame my impatience.MY Belayer and good friend saved my life!
I will be taking extra efforts to tie on my crampons better. The emt's were great.I was in alot of pain but made the decision to hike down to meet up with the emts at the highway.I learned some big lessons for the new year. Happy New Year. wear your helmet and watch every step.

Kirk Miller · · Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA · Joined May 2003 · Points: 1,824

HO! LEE! SHIT!!!

Glad you're still with us. Let's go climbing.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
mike c wrote: I am very grateful and wanted to take this topic and focus on the lesson.....i let my guard down on the easy top. I will be more careful to continue climbing to a safer stance. I learned some big lessons for the new year. wear your helmet and watch every step.
Really scary story Mike. Excellent learning points, I appreciate the reminders.

Thanks Mike, glad you are still with us!
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Glad you made it out relatively unscathed. Freaky!

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Good personal call-outs. Thanks for sharing this story, so that others have the opportunity to learn from your mistakes. Hopefully the peanut gallery doesn't start throwing too much shade your way. Seems like you learned a lesson, that, and your survival are the most important things to take away from this,

kablauch Blauch · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20

Any info on boot/crampon configuration and brands? Just to get an idea about the (hopefully) rare and bigger issue of a crampon just coming off. Thanks for sharing.

Jfriday1 · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

I'm glad to hear that you are doing ok.

I climbed there later that same day and heard about your fall. I spent more time adding protection after I heard about it. Thanks for sharing.

christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

would love to see photos/or description of your boot and crampon combo.

what do you think happened?

glad your OK and alive.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Crampon fit is something I'm pretty serious about. And what looks good initially often is actually mediocre at best.

jcm537 · · Broomfield, Co. · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Scary stuff mike. Glad you are alive. Have a speedy recovery.
Craig

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240
mike c wrote:Hi All, I climbed Coors light Friday morning and came within an inch of my life. I fell from the very top while run out .......i had two screws in about 8 feel apart and too much rope out. while walking up the super low angle ice at the very top, my crampon popped off my left foot. The next couple seconds came with the speed of lightning. Before i could barely scream i began sliding out of control back toward the edge i just topped out...... All i could do was scream in terror and with more prudency than i have ever summoned before. So i went right over that edge thinking .."this is it". Very scary while flying upside down ,head first. I was wearing my helmet and about to impact from roughly a 40 footer when i put out my left arm to try to reflexively brace for the impact.(landed on it directly from 40+ feet) While within the last few inches, the rope came tight and the fall was arrested inches off the icy deck!The fall was stopped by one old 16cm bd ice screw. My left arm was dislocated(dangler) at the elbow. THAT HURTS!At the time it felt shattered but to my surprise ,unfractured. I should have decked but my last minute scream got my belayers attention. HE saved my life .The scream alerted him and he stoped me with no room to spare. I am very grateful and wanted to take this topic and focus on the lesson.....i let my guard down on the easy top. I will be more careful to continue climbing to a safer stance. I made a mistake and was not using my picks,so when my left crampon poped off ,so did I. Had i been using my axes, i may have arrested my self. I blame my impatience.MY Belayer and good friend saved my life! I will be taking extra efforts to tie on my crampons better. The emt's were great.I was in alot of pain but made the decision to hike down to meet up with the emts at the highway.I learned some big lessons for the new year. Happy New Year. wear your helmet and watch every step.
You should retire...
Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55
ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

Mike,

Glad to hear you are okay! We had just parked when the ambulances and fire trucks rolled up. Thanks for the explanation and for the extra reminder to climb safe.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Helluvan episode! Cheers to that, carry the lesson with you, share it with others, and buy a lottery ticket! And carry that lucky screw with ya!

Jeremy Espinoza · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 80
kablauch wrote:Any info on boot/crampon configuration and brands? Just to get an idea about the (hopefully) rare and bigger issue of a crampon just coming off. Thanks for sharing.
Here is a good article from Cold Thistle on crampon fit.

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

Glad to hear you will live to climb again! Thanks for sharing the story as a good reminder to double check the pons.
Spiny Norman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

^^^ Read that article, all.

And remember that on ice, your crampons might as well be your belay.

Take crampon fit as seriously as making an anchor or setting a rap. It is that critical.

Gail Blauer · · Gardiner, NY · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,051

Thanks for sharing. I am glad that you are ok.

Karl Kvashay · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 225

glad you're ok

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

Wow, came close too last season while on easy ground.
Reminds me of my rock rule of placing gear for the "stoopid factor" on easy terrain. Pop a screw before the last bulge/edge and adding a screw on long easy runouts. I've seen some big slabs of rotten ice delaminate from top-offs, spooky.
I'm really glad things turned out relatively good.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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