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Tahoe - Ice Climbing conditions

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Bump for some conditions

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50
iceclimb.com/CA_area.data#E…

I have no idea how many of these areas form but always appreciate finding out they existed at one time.
I heard the Sierra mountaineering club went up there anyone a member or know one?
tahoe tom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 30

We climbed rainbow Friday and eagle lake cliffs today. Rainbow was good but the top was melting out. Eagle creek canyon had lots of flows but the temps are rising... inertia tube was not in. Devils coattails were melting. Maggie's peak looked like it had some cool mixed lines on it too.

Rainbow

Eagle lake cliffs

Devil's coattails

Has anyone climbed lake audrian? How is it?

Topher42 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50

where exactly is rainbow at?

Brendon A. Chapman · · Martinez, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 75

Climbed at Donner Summit on Saturday, there are a few short routes in the Snow Sheds that were fun and a bunch of decent ice up above!

Aaron Baumann · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 85

Was climbing at ColdStream Canyon last week... right one was still pretty thin. Middle (where the person is climbing) was pretty bomber, but started to get really wet the last day there (Wednesday). Right side was mostly snow slopes, with some thinner ice - good practice wall.

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

Check out that haaannnggeeerrrr!!

Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90

How was the far left line? It would be just out of the frame and to the left of the picture you posted. I've been climbing there pretty constantly the last 3 season and have never seen the line just left of the main falls come in! Looks killer!

tahoe tom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 30

Nice how was the approach? Is the road plowed at all or did you ski in? Thanks!

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

Seems like with the snow falling all week, it will be a ski in for the weekend?

Aaron Baumann · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 85
Josh Hutch wrote:How was the far left line? It would be just out of the frame and to the left of the picture you posted. I've been climbing there pretty constantly the last 3 season and have never seen the line just left of the main falls come in! Looks killer!
Yep - I know the one you're talking about. We left it alone. There's no good anchor spot at the top of the cliff. The first bit down low is suuuuper thin sheet over some vertical rock. No way to protect on it for at least 15-20 feet, and none of the other ice was really leadable yet, so we doubted after the vertical bit it would be leadable either so we passed.

tahoe tom wrote:Nice how was the approach? Is the road plowed at all or did you ski in? Thanks!
None of the road is plowed. First gate is closed. We all snowshoe'd in. Grueling 4.5 hours. Up near the falls there's 8+ feet of powder.

SirTobyThe3rd wrote:Seems like with the snow falling all week, it will be a ski in for the weekend?
It was even last week. We all opted to snowshoe, and it was a miserable 6 mile trek to the falls. Extremely deep snow past the lodge.. at least 6', more like 8' near the falls.
Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90

Thanks for all the updated info Aaron!

tahoe tom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 30

Dang, 4.5 hours is heinous. Thanks for the update.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Eagle Lake climbs are all in good enough shape to climb. 89 is still closed, but the hike wasn't that bad.

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

CC, any photos? ANy of the steep stuff on the walls on the approach to the Sunny Falls are in? I remember those being really good when formed.

Anyone checked out the Voodoo lounge?

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Sorry, only pics are on my phone and I always have trouble posting them.

The three climbs I looked at on the left hiking up canyon were good to go. My partner lead the first slaby climb you come to and set up a TR (their first time on ice in a year). I climbed a steeper line to the climbers right of it that someone called Johnnie Walker.

Another gentleman was on the last steep ice up canyon. Cutty Shark may be it's name, but I'm not sure.

We didn't hike up to Sunny Falls, but it looked about normal from a distance.

Where's the Voodoo Lounge? Never heard of that one.

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

Cutty Sark. Cool!

It is by fallen leaf lake. Never climbed there myself, but supposed to be good!

Brad in the bay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

Anyone been to cascade falls?

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Looked pretty snow covered last weekend. We went into Eagle Lakes, so I didn't see it up close but I don't recall any open water on it.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Still ice to be had around Tahoe. Not great, but climbable.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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