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Toproping through Rap Rings - Gunks

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
T Roper wrote: Just another day of stalking for burchy
Right on cue.

Are you familiar with the concept of "irony?"
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Marc801 wrote: asmp.org/articles/business-… pcblawfirm.com/articles/leg…
Sorry, but neither are applicable. Keep trying.
J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

The problem is, no one fights the crag anymore, but if they did, this kind of shit wouldn't happen. The stone Masters used to beat the shit out of each other, that's one way to deal with this type of ethical bullshit, but if you do can you take a vid and post it so we can still have fun?

DannyJ · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 95

Seems like people are getting a little carried away with this thread. Take the dude's picture down; not because you have to, but because he understands what happened and I'm sure he won't do it again. He seems like a cool dude and took the time to respond here in a respectful manner. OP got a little intense with enforcement; whatever, better than saying nothing.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
DannyJ wrote:Seems like people are getting a little carried away with this thread. Take the dude's picture down; not because you have to, but because he understands what happened and I'm sure he won't do it again. He seems like a cool dude and took the time to respond here in a respectful manner. OP got a little intense with enforcement; whatever, better than saying nothing.
maybe.

of course the dude has 3 contributions to mtn proj in the last 5 years and started posting in the forums with this- mountainproject.com/v/chain…

isnt the walk off from Jackie about 100 feet away?
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Jake Jones wrote: Even if copious amounts of tape are used, I'd wager that the crag would win. Call me crazy, but fighting literally tons of rock seems as though it may be an exercise in futility.
lol

I think some people are just asking for a solid punch to the face for sure but in 20 years at the crag I've never felt the need to do that. Never even felt the need to "school" someone on ethics either. If it was to happen some day it probably would be at the Gunks.
Schalk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 15
LandsEnd wrote:I am the climber that Schalk encountered. Amazingly, there is another side to the story. After climbing Delusions of Grandeur I traversed the ledge to rap Hyjack's. I found Schalk climbing up and we engaged in a friendly conversation regarding my route. Nice guy. He had followed his partner's lead cedar box up to the tree rap station where she had made an anchor slinging the tree. I can't recall if he was still climbing up or at the anchor proper. Regardless, he was engaging in a conversation with his partner whether or not to take another lap on cedar's. Apparently, they decided no. In any case, I had already treaded the rap and was heading down when at the bottom I realized the rope fell directly over HH. As an afterthought, I considered a quick run up Hyjack's. No longer than the time it took to pull the rope to the sharp end and stop, I heard Schalk asking "What are you doing?" I replied that I thought I'd take a lap on HH. Schalk says that he "hurt the toproper's feelings when he pointed out... blah blah blah" when he really means he lost control of his senses and started yelling down with "What a dick-head move" several times and some other rhetoric about the ethics of top roping. Despite no one, not me nor my partner, taking one move on the rock as a TR, he was offered to rap our rope... which he accepted mind you, and incredibly he continued his rant throughout his descent. As it turns out, I have to believe that he got to the ground faster than had I pulled my rope completely and then he treaded his own and then rapped. He waited for no top roping. There was no one top roping when he got to the anchor, no one top roping when he wanted to rap, no one top roping!?!?! Look. I as much as anyone can appreciate a clean descent once I get to an anchor. But ETIQUETTE is more than rapping a route and then considering to top rope the route which I had not done!?!?! Etiquette includes not using bellicose language at the first opportunity, especially after just engaging in friendly conversation!! Anyway, I do appreciate the fact that I was able to google "gunks top roper" and the first, and I mean the very first entry is me!! I made it!! A google top pick. Thank you Schalk! Beer on me at Baucus this Sat bro! Dana, good to see that you did not buy into the BS. The others that did, your bad.
Really, this thread is still going?

My "rant" was limited to saying it is a dick move to toprope through the rap rings, especially as you knew somebody was up there. The first few times I called down to you guys you ignored me, so it wasn't like you were even paying attention. And then got all defensive telling me there was nothing wrong with that? And yeah, I did get a ride on your rope because you didn't want to pull it.

Look, this is stupid. It is like I was driving down the main road of New Paltz and suddenly the road is blocked because some guy is screwing a pig in the middle of the road. We can have a long discussion about the best detour to get past the guy screwing the pig, or the correct way I should have told the guy screwing the pig that he shouldn't be doing it. But in the end the guy is still fucking the pig.
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Schalk wrote: Look, this is stupid. It is like I was driving down the main road of New Paltz and suddenly the road is blocked because some guy is screwing a pig in the middle of the road. We can have a long discussion about the best detour to get past the guy screwing the pig, or the correct way I should have told the guy screwing the pig that he shouldn't be doing it. But in the end the guy is still fucking the pig.
Schalk........wins!
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
Schalk wrote: But in the end the guy is still fucking the pig.
And in the end, we are still talking about it after three pages. Threads like this are making me start to dislike MP, or at least the forums.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Nick Sweeney wrote: And in the end, we are still talking about it after three pages. Threads like this are making me start to dislike MP, or at least the forums.
Thanks for getting page four started, Nick. :)
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
FrankPS wrote: Thanks for getting page four started, Nick. :)
D'oh! Time to go climb... or work.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

I've n3v3r been to the gunks ....
can't wait! Sounds like it's ....educational

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Bryan Manning wrote:... Sounds like it's ....entertaining
Fixed. ;-)
Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Gunkiemike wrote: Reversos do not run one MOVING rope against a STATIONARY rope. Nor does a Munter hitch. So there's no problem. DEF is correct - Running a rope through a rap link while another rope sits there (the suggestion in this thread) is a different beast entirely, and it CAN (will...HAS) destroy a rope. It was less than a year ago that an inexperienced climber-in-a-hurry did exactly that at the Gunks and damaged the rope of a certain nationally-significant guide. The newb ended up having to buy the guy a new rope.
Reversos use the friction of the rope to lock it in place. You can lower the follower, with the assistance of the friction. The sheath takes the abuse, but won't get trashed. If you thread a rope through some rap rings, you can do it in a way that there's very little friction inbetween the rope that's already there, and the rap rope that's getting threaded through the rings. Taking slack as a follower ascends will cause as much friction (probably even more) as threading a rope over a stationary rope.

I just remembered--you have to pull the rope down after rapping! Still more friction while lowering a follower with a reverso in auto block mode. In that case, you have the weight of an adult on the rope. And your rope will be fine, unless it's hinging on it's final leg.
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

No Paul

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Adam Burch wrote:No Paul
Let's climb, sometime! I'll be free from the military soon, and am eager to travel wherever I please! Seems like I can learn much from ya! I need to build my climbing resume to hit the AMGA!
Mark lewin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Moral of the story. Call in sick. Climb on the weekdays. Avoid the crowds. :) that said I'm a weekday climber if anyone is interested.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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