Carabiner for nose of Mega Jul

Has anyone found a carabiner that fits well and locks into the nose of the Mega Jul for rappeling? I have a Mad Rock carabiner that fits but does not latch and haven't been able to find anything locally that fits.

CAMP Nano 22 has worked for me. Edit: Actually it's a Nano 23, my mistake.

ems.com/camp-nano-23-carabi…

This one is made for it

edelrid.de/en/sports/carabi…

my camp photons (solid key gate not wire) fit in my mega jul amazingly well, and my mammut moses (wall wires) fit ok as well. Even with a full sized biner like the photon the mega jul still reppels like crap in "autolock" mode I just flip it and rap with a prussic now, love my mega jul for belaying and rapps fine when flipped into normal tube mode, oh well.

A notchless biner on the bolt side can in theory be "safer"

dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/c…

A nose hooked biner can break at 2-3 KN ... Easily attainable in a fall

;)

The biner in discussion is for the purpose of acting like a lever only. It does not bear weight. If it fails it does not jeopardize the safety of the climber. In principle you should be able to use a small non climbing biner.

K2tbui wrote:The biner in discussion is for the purpose of acting like a lever only. It does not bear weight. If it fails it does not jeopardize the safety of the climber. In principle you should be able to use a small non climbing biner.

The best matches are Edelrid Pure and Petzl Spirit (new).

I use Edelrid Pure Slider for attaching myself to anchors and the same binner works perfect with MegaJul on rappels.

I bought a megajul recently. I've belayed with it but haven't had to repel with it. Why not repel with the green thumb piece forward, holding it open?

I bought a megajul recently. I've belayed with it but haven't had to repel with it. Why not repel with the green thumb piece forward, holding it open?

Great device for belaying from harness, but Its a pain in the butt to rap in Lock mode. Just rap in regular mode with a backup.

One time I was coming down on a long two rope Rap in lock mode. It was causing me to bounce up and down on the rope as it would catch and release to scoot down. Well the rope was hanging over an edge and the up and down motion was sawing the rope over the rock and I ended up with a core shot from a newer rope!!

I am also not to sure about putting the device in Direct off an anchor because of how thin the stainless steel material is where it connects to the anchor. I emailed Edelrid, and they stated it was rated for 8kn's Seems kinda low to me.

Camp photon

C. Archibald wrote:I bought a megajul recently. I've belayed with it but haven't had to repel with it. Why not repel with the green thumb piece forward, holding it open?

C. Archibald wrote:I bought a megajul recently. I've belayed with it but haven't had to repel with it. Why not repel with the green thumb piece forward, holding it open?

Thanks for all of the suggestions on this.  Any advantages of getting a locker that will fit vs. a solid or wiregate?

Cody Woods wrote: Thanks for all of the suggestions on this.  Any advantages of getting a locker that will fit vs. a solid or wiregate?

No.

Edelrid Bullet proof is by far the best. The Mega Jul was designed to be with used it. Plus the steel insert will keep any aluminum powder off your rope. 

I ended up getting the Petzl Spirit on sale and it works great. Then I found the Edelrid Pure on sale so that’s on it’s way as well. 

Cody Woods wrote: I ended up getting the Petzl Spirit on sale and it works great. Then I found the Edelrid Pure on sale so that’s on it’s way as well. 

How did the Edelrid Pure compare? Is it worth getting one over the other?

I’ve been using CAMP Dyon for this purpose, great biner, fits perfectly.