Edelrid Mega Jul

Chris Rice wrote: Thanks as usual for the information - I always find value in these kinds of posts. A question if I may - any significant differences using a Reverso 4?

I don´t have a Reverso4 but doubt there´s a lot of change, as far as I remember it was just a lighter version but nothing fundamentally changed in the design. With this style of plate the options are limited so they all end up as a similar compromise, the Alpine Up is a typical example as by considerably improving some aspects of the performance other parts have become much worse.

Jim Titt wrote: I don´t have a Reverso4 but doubt there´s a lot of change, as far as I remember it was just a lighter version but nothing fundamentally changed in the design. With this style of plate the options are limited so they all end up as a similar compromise, the Alpine Up is a typical example as by considerably improving some aspects of the performance other parts have become much worse.

Thanks

Jim Titt wrote: As the Metric system is originally French anyone who uses the decimal point instead of a comma for subdivisions of unit is either a)an English-speaking peasant or b)Communist. No doubt when Mr Trump is elected things will be rationalised. Merry Xmas!

If Trump gets elected we'll probably have branded numerals with decimal separator a gold "T," and an inch will be redefined to be the length of the first joint of his thumb. Actually, all modern numerals, being Arabic and therefore possibly Muslim, will be banned because there might be terrorist numerals hiding among them, and we will return to Roman numerals, which, being good enough for Caesar's Palace, should be good enough for us.

As for the commas, Arabic mathematicians made a kind of slash as a decimal separator that, when typeset, became the comma, and this was long before the French decided the length of part of the king's thumb was not exactly a universal standard for measurement. The problem for the Engish-speaking communist peasant countries is that these benighted realms somehow adopted the use of the comma to separate whole-number decimal digits into groups of three, making the comma unavailable for different duties.

Meanwhile, Charles Wilts invented the so-called decimal system (not the "comma system" thank you very much) for Tahquitz, but it was subsequently drained of all rational numerical meaning by the need to accommodate more difficult climbs. No doubt Trump would rebrand this as the "T-system," and finally all would be well.

the best way i found to do how this photo shows to belay a second with a single rope, is to put the loop of rope through the mega jul, then clip the loop of rope opposite the wire, and then to get it how picture 8d shows, you clip into the green loop and then clip the guide loop into the anchor with another karabiner

clip the loop of rope and then clip the green loop with the karabiner

Nitrous Stone wrote:the best way i found to do how this photo shows to belay a second with a single rope, is to put the loop of rope through the mega jul, then clip the loop of rope opposite the wire, and then to get it how picture 8d shows, you clip into the green loop and then clip the guide loop into the anchor with another karabiner

I don't understand what the funtional difference is between having the locker inside the keeper as shown in 8d vs outside as shown in 8e? For single strand autoblock that is.

Rick Blair wrote: I don't understand what the funtional difference is between having the locker inside the keeper as shown in 8d vs outside as shown in 8e? For single strand autoblock that is.

With skinny single strands you can invert the brake and climbing strands by twisting the caribiner

Ray Pinpillage wrote: With skinny single strands you can invert the brake and climbing strands by twisting the caribiner

So we rely on the thumb loop cable that was known to pull out of early production models to keep the rope from inverting? Kind of funny, not something I'd actually be worried about happening though.

The wire isn't necessary to stop the rotation in setup 8d. The climbing rope will stop it (or the carabiner suspending the divice.)

Joe Platko wrote:The wire isn't necessary to stop the rotation in setup 8d. The climbing rope will stop it (or the carabiner suspending the divice.)

Well now. That's embarrassing. Of course the biner holding the device to the anchor would stop it. I need more coffee.

Anybody else been dropped by someone belaying with a mega jul?

Ray Pinpillage wrote: With skinny single strands you can invert the brake and climbing strands by twisting the caribiner

The same thing can happen with a Petzl Gigi and Ovo.

youtu.be/rlbewChUYUw

Nick Drake wrote: So we rely on the thumb loop cable that was known to pull out of early production models to keep the rope from inverting? Kind of funny, not something I'd actually be worried about happening though.

I think I've been pretty critical of the device but in fairness I dropped a 30lb weight on the cable trying to get it to break and it held without failure. I have not heard of any other cable failures since the first batch.

Does the Mega Jul or any of the other sliding-biner assisted belay devices (e.g. smart, click-up...) lock up if the rope strands are held parallel to eachother. I know that is not the proper belay technique for the Mega Jul or any other belay device. I'm just curious.

I've fooled around with my Mega Jul, trying to get it to fail and not lock, and it did lock with both strands parallel. If you feed really slow (not like in a fall) it wont lock, but a quick movement of the rope and it seems to lock no matter what.

Has anyone had a problem with their megajul slipping excessively? I rapped yesterday on a single line in locking mode, and it basically didn't lock up at all, I actually had to redirect off my leg loop to control it. Rope was a 9.4 trango

I've also noticed it slipping more and more when belaying. I use the edelrid HMS biner, and it's getting grooved, but not excessively. It's a little concerning considering how well it performed initially.

I wonder if it has to do with it being sensitive to biner cross section.

I have been using it a ton for sport climbing, probably 2-3 weekends a month, but don't use it in the gym.

climbing friend,

this is a device most holy, with everything you heart desire - auto braking assist dare say locking, double rope rap, cheap, light, guide mode belay.

Do not be thinking of the funny stuff. You must use a fat, round, pear shaped karabiner, or you rope it will get kinked or produce excessive friction for you device.

However, using device may not be socially accept, because in their heart any good climbing friend of the climbing rocks sport climbing for rock, would only trust the grigri, and this would look too much like the deadly ATC.

Sam Stephens wrote:Has anyone had a problem with their megajul slipping excessively? I rapped yesterday on a single line in locking mode, and it basically didn't lock up at all, I actually had to redirect off my leg loop to control it. Rope was a 9.4 trango I've also noticed it slipping more and more when belaying. I use the edelrid HMS biner, and it's getting grooved, but not excessively. It's a little concerning considering how well it performed initially. I wonder if it has to do with it being sensitive to biner cross section. I have been using it a ton for sport climbing, probably 2-3 weekends a month, but don't use it in the gym.

Did you have it in tuber mode (handle up) or in autolock mode handle down? I usually rap in tuber mode like a regular ATC. It is easier me thinks.

Handle down because I was on a single line similar rapping. I use it both ways depending on what I'm doing.

Sam Stephens wrote:Has anyone had a problem with their megajul slipping excessively?

I didn't have slip, but top ropping with an 8.7 using an i beam newer attache biner it did not lock off as aggressively. I wouldn't want to catch a high force lead fall with that combo.

• correction* I remembered that my friends alpine rope was actually a mammut serenity 8.7mm that this was on.