I was searching on the Internet how to replicate Action Directe, and I found this blog. I have a background in gymnastics and decided to transition into climbing. I built a campus board in my room and have a few hang boards.
I sent that climber a message through facebook asking if he would release the specs, measurements, dimensions, angles, and handholds to the general public and am waiting for a response. Does anyone else know where I can find the specs?
kenr
·
Dec 21, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
Thanks for that link to the original campus board.
I was especially struck that the angle of overhang was 12 degrees.
Most public campus boards I've seen nowadays are overhanging much more -- around double that angle. Which makes the small holds almost useless for me. Metolius recommends a range of 12-20 degrees overhang angle, and presumably has designed its very popular wooden rung holds for that steepness range.
If only more of the public boards would heed the original example and the Metolius design goal range.
kenr wrote:I was especially struck that the angle of overhang was 12 degrees. If only more of the public boards would heed the original example and the Metolius design goal range. Ken
It all comes down to training specificity. Interesting that Gulich went w/ a 12deg overhang on his training simulator. Action Direct seems much steeper than that. Makes me wonder if he had some reason for that angle or if it was all that could be done w/ the space available?
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