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Routes in Military Wall
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All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beene Material T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daisychain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Etrier S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Henry Kissinger’s Glasses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Beat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mental Health T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Nicoderm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5 |
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Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Special impetus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stacy's Farewell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Subatomic Fingerlock T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slab S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard 1991 |
| Page Views: | 6,676 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
If you're the sort of climber who believes everything at the Red is soft, take a run on this guy! This classic slab is completely out of character with the typical Red jug haul, with thin edges and invisible feet on a less than vertical wall. The rock is stellar, and the movement is cerebral and sustained with three or four significant cruxes that don't let up till the very end.
The fun begins with literally the hardest move on the route--a long slap to the obvious horn. Shorter folks and those afraid of flying will have a difficult time with this move. Snake between large edges to a good rest before the redpoint crux: a tenuous barn-door lieback past the 5' vertical rail. Footholds re-appear once you reach a well-earned shake on the arete. One more reachy move gains a horizontal break and a good rest.
Easier moves lead into the right-leaning dihedral, and a few more off-balance moves to exit up & right to the final rest. A wicked little technical boulder problem guards the anchor. Long reaches & good balance are the key to the good jugs at the chains.
The fun begins with literally the hardest move on the route--a long slap to the obvious horn. Shorter folks and those afraid of flying will have a difficult time with this move. Snake between large edges to a good rest before the redpoint crux: a tenuous barn-door lieback past the 5' vertical rail. Footholds re-appear once you reach a well-earned shake on the arete. One more reachy move gains a horizontal break and a good rest.
Easier moves lead into the right-leaning dihedral, and a few more off-balance moves to exit up & right to the final rest. A wicked little technical boulder problem guards the anchor. Long reaches & good balance are the key to the good jugs at the chains.
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