Would you use this quick draw?
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Going through my rack this weekend and noticed one of my draws had a broken rubber piece on the rope side carabiner. |
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May be a little harder to clip now with I being able to flop around but I'd still run it but if you are seriously worried you can buy a new dog bone for like $5 |
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A rubber band wound tightly where the rubber goes will fix the problem or petzel sells rubber pieces for the clipping end. |
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It's fine enough. |
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Edit to answer the OP's question: Yes! |
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What the hell are those rubber things called anyway? Its like those plastic things on the end of shoelaces. They don't have a name! |
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Shoelace tips are aglets. |
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aglet = plastic thingy on shoelace. |
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Haha lol, what the hell are they called. |
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Clean up your desk. |
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I have the same draw with the same problem. I've been using it. If you slide the biner back in such that the rubber is where it is supposed to be, it shouldn't move around too much. |
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Here, let me try. |
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If you climb trad you use alpine draws... they don't have rubber. The rubber is a nicety not a requirement for a draw to work. |
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I had this same problem with multiple Mad Rock Concord Quickdraws, below is part of the response from Allen Kim (allen@madrockclimbing.com): |
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J Marsella wrote:1. "Yer gunna die" 2. "Send it to me and I'll test it out" 3. "It's only $4 worth of dynema; is your life worth more than that?" 4. "NOOB!" 5. "In the Gunks that draw would be 5.4" 6. "Use the rope-- you don't need that extra stuff on your harness!" 7. "Quick draws are neither." PS I'd use it.OMG, dude just summed up every post on MP. #6 is my favorite! |
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Two things: zipped up a 5.2 to set up a TR anchor on an adjacent route. A guy from out west somewhere came up behind my second and complained that the route was at least a 5.7, definitely not a 5.2. Don't know what to say. It was a 5.2. |
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I have a bunch (10-15) of DMM's rubber things I removed (gasp) from my quickdraws. PM me and I'll send them to you. They're all circa 3 months ago. |
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Mr.Andreson wrote:Going through my rack this weekend and noticed one of my draws had a broken rubber piece on the rope side carabiner. the dog bone is in fine condition and the biners are fine it's just the little rubber piece that holds the rope side biner in place is broken. The only problem I could see this causing is that the carabiner could get loaded on the minor axis but you look at alpine draws and trad slings and the carabiners are not held in place in those cases and I climb with those whenever I'm on trad without any issues. Any thoughts, I'm inclined to not care and just use it, I guess I could get it reslung.Alluding to another thread..... This is a great example of that "thinking by rote memorization" instead of understanding the underlying concept. A climber *should* be able to look at the draw and the rubber keeper, analyze what the keeper is doing in the system, and come to the conclusion that it is superfluous and not safety critical. I suppose it's better to ask if you really don't know, but if that's the case, what confidence should I or anyone else have in your ability to figure out and engineer a proper anchor? |
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B. Climbin' wrote:What the hell are those rubber things called anyway? Its like those plastic things on the end of shoelaces. They don't have a name!That design is normally known as a "tadpole". |
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i have used small zipties on draws without the rubber doodle. I also did this to my cams... helps in hard splitters, and no i don't get my cams stuck, i clean stuck cams alot. |