Tenaya Climbing Shoes

I've had Oasi shoes for a little while and they fell apart way too quick. The velcro and strap were horrible and very short lived. I kept adjusting the shoes every move and they would just come right undone as soon as i applied pressure onto my foot. I got in touch w Tenaya. I sent the shoes back and asked them to replace them with the tarifas. They will email you a UPS shipping label for free shipping up to 3lbs. I didn't want to deal with the Tenaya Oasi velcro and straps again. They were comfortable..

mc813 wrote:Anyone have sizing advice for the Masai if I'm a 8.5 in 5.10 Mocs? I'm looking for something better at edging/stiffer for slab and so far these have gotten great reviews.

My street shoe is a 10 and I wear a 10 in Masai. Fit nice and tight. The Masais are great.

Arin wrote: My street shoe is a 10 and I wear a 10 in Masai. Fit nice and tight. The Masais are great.

I love my Masais...my go to shoe 95% of the time and do everything really well. I have a size 11 foot, usually go with a 44.5 scarpa, 10.5/11 Galileo and Anasazi and went with a size 12 in the Masai, but I bought them to be comfortable for all day trad...and they are and I have sacrificed little to no performance sans the wee micro edges on steep face. I could have gone down to an 11.5 and picked up a bit more stability for edging but that is why I got a pair of the Ra's at 11.5...they fit that bill nicely!!! Great shoes...love them!

I assume you meant Oct 9-11 for Rocktoberfest? Will have to check 'em out!

I can second what Arin said. My Masais in my normal street shoe size are snug but not painful. For all day shoes I would get them a half size bigger.

I ended up scoring a pair of Masais off gear trade for $65, the same size as my Mocs. So far they feel great, tighter in the toe area, but I guess that's the be expected for edging performance.

Ive got a pair of oasi

Overall it fits like a pair of slightly more aggressive katana velcros for me

Its a pretty good shoe but theres 2 minor quibbles

- it uses xs grip ... On a shoe of this price and brand it should use xs grip2 ... While it generally isnt a huge deal on some polished slabs and smearing cracks (too thin to jam eve the toe tip) it squeaked like a mouse ... My xs grip2 and xs edge shoes dont generally do that

- the fancy velcro system is a gimmick ... A normal velcro strap or two would be much more durable .... Its a shame as it would make a decent crack shoe except for this

;)

bearbreeder wrote:the fancy velcro system is a gimmick

Yeah, after climbing in the Oasis for more than a year, I totally agree. The flimsy adjustable velcro straps suck, and I've had issues with the rand peeling away from the upper around the toe. Durability is certainly an issue. They are, however, still superbly comfortable for their performance, and I still love climbing in them.

(bear, I actually turned an oversized pair into crack shoes, and the flimsy straps and peeling rand were swiftly shredded, in your Canadian home turf to boot. They might be good crack shoes only for the super rich!)

I also have a pair of Intis on their fourth resole; low durability is not an issue for that pair. They are great for near-vertical stuff and strong in edging and smearing, and super comfortable. For me, they are terrible for heel hooks and the heels literally peel of my feet on a heavily loaded hook.

I had a pair of Masais as well, but I could never get them to be comfortable. I have bumpy, bony heels (possible Haglund's) and the Masais have this stitching right where the two halves of the heel meet that would hurt terribly and tear up my skin. Even after breaking them in, this was still an issue, and the Masais also would ooze off my heels during hooks (making the Dangler impossible).

The Iati looks awesome, sounds like a slightly stiffer Oasi, and looks like it has a better velcro design.

So just grabbed a pair of intis in my street size and these are some of the better fitting shoes I've tried. But questions.

I'm not sure how much stretch I should expect. They're about where my worn in sport shoes are now (scarpa instinct vs and old scarpa vapors). I'd say they're on the comfier end of squished. A bit narrow in the front so I've got a little overlap, but I don't hate it. I could definitely climb in these as they are without issue.

Otherwise heel is perfect, arch is perfect.

Should I size down? Or will they essentially maintain this fit? Should I actually be worried about the horizontal toe squishing? Would ras maybe be a better choice? I was looking for a general purpose sport shoe (mainly technical face, slab and a smidge of overhang)

Jake Jones wrote:I did the same thing as you and on my second pair I went a half size down because after break in heel hooks were sloppy. Couldn't be happier now with the downsize. Hope this helps. If you have low volume feet, stick with the Intis.

Exactly what I was looking for! I actually ordered a pair of the Ras along with a half size down Inti to compare. Super super stoked for these.

Got a question for Tarifa owners on sizing. I've got a pair of Masais (9.5 - wearable, but just a bit too snug) and a pair of tatankas (10 - way too big). Was thinking of getting a pair of Tarifas in a 9.5 as I've heard they fit bigger than the Masais. Any comment on this? Sadly, I live at the ass end of the world and trying them on isn't an option.

Cheers

Anyone have time in the Iati yet? If so, how is the stiffness and the heel? I've grown disenchanted with the Miura vs due to shitty quality and a poor fitting heel...but love how they edge. I'm hoping maybe the iati could replace the Miura? Scarpas stiffer sport shoes aren't really an option for me due to sizing (13 street shoe)

Nick Jackson wrote:Anyone have time in the Iati yet? If so, how is the stiffness and the heel? I've grown disenchanted with the Miura vs due to shitty quality and a poor fitting heel...but love how they edge. I'm hoping maybe the iati could replace the Miura? Scarpas stiffer sport shoes aren't really an option for me due to sizing (13 street shoe)

I'm going back and forth between the Iati's and the Tarifas! leaning toward the Tarifas but I'm not sure why ;)

I have been wearing a pair of Iatis for about 4 weeks, probably 20 days of climbing on them outside and in the gym.

For one super comfortable, the toebox seems kinda big though but maybe because I sized the same as my old oasi's and i do think they run a bit bigger.

The lacing system is much improved over the oasi's since the grommets are in leather and not webbing now and the velcro is one large pad vs two.

The pointy tip in the photos you see is pretty exaggerated, mine actually kinda turn up? I have never owned or tried on a pair of muiras but these are softer for sure, softer than my katanas. Never noticed til now but the left heel is slightly deformed.

I own a pair of ra's and love them ! Although Iay go a touch bigger next time as they do cause some discomfort after a while

Im curious how the Iatis edge compared to the Tarifa? Still leaning toward the Tarifas to replace my Masais which I have loved all except the stitching on the heel which is ridiculously painful. Great performing shoe and very comfortable except for that one issue.

Scott, I have the Ras and totally love them as well. hold a great edge and smear pretty nicely as well. Not too aggressive in shape, but I find they preform great on steep slab, face and overhanging sport routes. I wont part with my Ra's!

Thomas H wrote: Never noticed til now but the left heel is slightly deformed.

how so Thomas?

Thomas, if you wear katana laceups, how do the iati compare in size?

Chris Graham wrote: how so Thomas?

Look at the photo where the heels are touching one is perfectly rounded the other is squared and the rubber has a crease, cant say I notice any difference with them on though

Jamie K. wrote:Thomas, if you wear katana laceups, how do the iati compare in size?

I wear the velcros and they are definitely narrower through the instep and bridge of my foot than the Iati. I think the neoprene liner in the Iati aids to that feeling though since it is stretchy. Hard to say on sizing I think similar maybe size down half.

Thomas H wrote: Look at the photo where the heels are touching one is perfectly rounded the other is squared and the rubber has a crease, cant say I notice any difference with them on though

Gotcha!
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