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recommendation lightweight trad harness

Original Post
D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972

Looking to upgrade from entry level harness, low profile but not terrible for a hanging belay. packable is bonus. thanks

Andrew Reed · · CaƱon City, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 56

Misty Mountain Cadillac or Arcteryx R320

Zak Munro · · VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME, SLC · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 345

BD Aspect

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

wild country's Eclipse. I love the 5th gear loop in the back.

Cortney L · · Englehood, CO · Joined May 2015 · Points: 42

I have the petzl sitta and i love it. super comfy, very packable, very light weight. i use it for all day trad climbing and its perfect.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
andrew.reed wrote:Misty Mountain Cadillac or Arcteryx R320
The Cadillac is a nice harness, but I wouldn't call it a "lightweight" one.
Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Graham. If I ever had to actually pay for one and I can't say I could bring myself to pay the premium over other harnesses. But I have been given multiple dead bird harnesses over the years, ice, mixed, rock...their pack ability far exceeds any I have ever experienced and yet they have been the most comfortable on the wall as well. This comes from someone who prefers to rack everything on his harness vs carry a backpack for long days. The orange R300 is my main trad harness.

John Butler · · Tonopah, NV · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 115

I really like a floating waistband.

gearexpress.com/dmm-renegad…

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Wait.

Are you just jealous of my lifestyle?

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

new dead bird is the best yet. i have the FL 365 (green fixed legs) its more comfortable than a big wall harness to hang in. it racks gear well and has a 5th loop in back.

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,875
David Gibbs wrote: The Cadillac is a nice harness, but I wouldn't call it a "lightweight" one.
Um, yeah. Misty Mountain makes a great and comfortable harness but "packable" and "low profile" are not good descriptors.

Mammut makes some lightweight, comfy (affordable) harnesses as well, the Togir/a come to mind. You can also remove the leg loops, a bonus.
walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 130

I have a Petzl Calidris that I use for trad works well and is pretty comfy and light.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:new dead bird is the best yet. i have the FL 365 (green fixed legs) its more comfortable than a big wall harness to hang in. it racks gear well and has a 5th loop in back.
They use to call this their "warp strength" technology...sounded like bs to me originally...but some how these 12-13 ounce harnesses are more comfortable in spreading weight out...don't know if this is really patented technology or not...or maybe thinner really is better in terms of weight distribution and the others have not chased the same concept...it has always been a noticeable difference for me...the most packable is also the most comfortable...I know it defies logic.
D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972

Very cool! I didn't know the FL-365 had a fifth gear loop in the back. That's something I would really like.

The wild country eclipse looks pretty cool as well (and half the price of dead bird harness) but did wild country ever fix the problem? The one where if you rack heavy on the right loop the padding slips below the webbing and the webbing digs into your hip (from what I've read).

I couldn't find many reviews on the mammut Togir.

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,875
DGraham wrote: I couldn't find many reviews on the mammut Togir.
I've used the women's version. Unusually shaped gear loops but held lots of gear. Very comfortable and the fabric seemed similar to the dead bird.
Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 435

+1 for the DMM renegade, the floating support belt is a really cool feature.
7 gear loops seems excessive but I'm personally pretty anal retentive about my harness organisation and I find it to be pretty handy.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

The dead bird warranty is what keeps me coming back. Also no wrinkling after alot of climbing in it

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

The BD chaos is my go to harness for rock and have been stoked with it. It's 12.5oz and fairly comfy...

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Dead Bird 395a

large back makes it comfy to hang in, the legs super adjustable, you have 5 gear loops, 2 - 5in loops, 2 - 4 in loops, and a haul loop that i usually rack up with which is another 4 inches...all in all 22 inches of racking space + 4 ice clipper slots.

It also catches like a dream and can be broken down for a strictly alpine harness.

my 0.02

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Zak Munro wrote:BD Aspect
BD Aspect also has a fabric only loop across the back that is handy for hanging your anchor gear, puffy, etc. As well as a the full strength haul loop.
Gear loops are smaller than than the dead bird ones though.
Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
DGraham wrote: I couldn't find many reviews on the mammut Togir.
It is much less expensive than the Arc'Teryx harnesses, weight is similar, packs down small. It is made to accept a 5th gear loop easily with a piece of cordage. 4 ice clipper slots. Tie-in point protector ups the durability of a high wear point, especially compared with the Arc'teryx harnesses. A partner of mine switched from the Arc'Teryx to a Togir and finds it much more comfortable.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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