Sandstone trad placements?
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Hey Folks, |
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There are lots of different sandstone varieties. Some is nearly as hard as granite (Nuttall Sandstone in WV) and some is literally mud (Fisher Towers). The Boulder Flatirons are also sandstone and it appears you've climbed here several times. |
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trisgo, you are going to want to go to potash road if you go to moab. You can trust a standard rack in sandstone. I think you will be pleasantly surprised to climb on it. |
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trisgo wrote:For whatever reason, I think of sandstone as breaking apart and crumbling when touched (again, I've never even seen a sandstone cliff face in person). I know this isn't always correct considering sandstone bolting. My question is, is there anything I need to know about sandstone trad placements (other than avoiding wet rock)? Can sandstone hold a micronut? Do I have to bury cams in way deep? I know cam hooks are a no-go, but is there anything else about trad placements I need to be aware of? I apologize if this seems like a stupid question, but quartzite and sandstone are at complete opposite ends of the spectrum and I'd rather ask than bite it.Trisgo, if you are heading for Indian Creek more than "Moab". The cracks you will get on at IC will be well cleaned and your pro, if placed properly will be as bomber as any crack in any stone. What makes a cam fail is a loose surface. Yes, if you got on some of the more remote towers, you will find dirty cracks which will require more care in your placements...i.e. Sorcerer's Apprentice. IC's routes are often climbed as much if not more than many sport destinations. Young limestone (recently glaciated) is actually much more dangerous in reference to gear failure due to surface conditions (greasy) than sandstone. Placing your cams deep into cracks is in fact a safer method of climbing wide cracks (which the desert has a lot of) more because it keeps you from compromising the pieces with your body parts as you climb the crack. I have fallen on micro nuts and micro cams in sandstone. There are varying degrees of hardness, varnished, sandstone. 99% of the time, you will know instantly whether you trust a piece or not. Good luck with your trip. |
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Right on, I appreciate all the insight. |
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If you're in the Midwest then try to get down to the Red and Jackson Hollow. And there's always Devils Lake which goes out the other end and is like trying to climb blocks of bulletproof glass. |
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Some sandstone is far harder and more cohesive that granite and just about everything you have come across.... |
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Seth Kane wrote: Kor-ingalls on castleton, ancient art, jah man on sister superior, west face of the three gossips, south six shooter, in search of suds on washer woman, and countless others are all clean, 3+ pitch lines with any climbing harder then 5.9 being easily aided. Towers are amazing and for the most part, gear in sandstone is trustworthy, you'll know when it's not.Suggesting any of these routes, with the possible exception of the S. Six Shooter, for a 5.6-5.9 leader in the short days of winter is a bad idea. Don't sandbag the guy on his first trip to the desert. |
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Some good stuff here already. And also... |
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powhound84 wrote:Smearing is useless 95% of the time.I'm thinking that's more like 98% of the time. We'd go up there from SoIll sandstone and bang the shit out of our shins trying to smear on that stuff while barely getting up anything. They'd come down to our sandstone and be hugging the rock on their bellies looking for edges on stuff we casually walked up no-handed. Go figure. Definitely a case of different strokes... |
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Lol definitely don't listen to Seth Kane. The routes on castleton are technically 5.9 but they are all intimidating and mentally much harder than that. |
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trisgo wrote: since moving to the Midwest, I've gotten to climb on limestone in Missouri and Iowa.Tons of great sandstone in Arkansas as well. HCR and Sams Throne to name a few. Sam's has some great trad. |
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The popularity of that route makes it a shitty choice. Nobody feels good when they are outclassed by the rock. Adding the hassle of rapping through the 10-15 other parties on the route will not help. |
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So now that Trisgo brought it up and someone mentioned Kor-Ingalls, what do you think about the calcite that lines the cracks and chimney pitches on Castleton? That stuff freaked me out, I thought it would just flake away. Is it safe to whip on? |